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I have wanted to install a Hydraulic handbrake set-up on my mx6/626 GT's for a long time.
The factory cable/mechanical handbrake set-up is weak and a pain in the ass/slow to engage and disengage doing burnouts at the track or drifting through the snow.
Because the new 626GT is getting everything but the kitchen sink put on it, while it's still a bare body it's time to add a hydraulic handbrake.

The plan was to extend the hydraulic brake lever, make it easily removable and install the unit way in the passenger foot well next to the ECU.
After searching online for units I realized they are all to big to tuck in without being seen, Hydraulic handbrakes aren't street legal.
Not running brake lines into and out of the cabin reduce the risque of brake line damage/failure, rust and leaks in the car and getting caught with a hydraulic handbrake in the car. The fact they run on the drivers side of the frame rails is also inconvenient.

I am thinking of using a cable line (like the throttle, cruise and factory handbrake use), the hydraulic handbrake lever would pull the cable and actuate the Hydraulic handbrake cylinder that would be mounted on the firewall and interrupt a single brake line from the master or 2 cylinders interrupting both rear brake lines (have to look at the proportioning valve, can't remember if it's front and rear/2 or left and right/2).

Hydraulic handbrake cylinders act as a straight through passage and shut the supply side of the cylinder when engaged. I would only need to purchase the cylinder and the correct length cable, I have the material to fabricate the rest. By turning the cylinder upside down and mounting it at a 30* angle the brake line would enter and exit between the firewall and cylinder. The angle would allow for more travel and leverage in less space.
The cylinder/cable assembly would sit behind a homemade mounting plate with legal junk mounted on it.

Inside the car I would build the lever-cable box 3/4" to 1" wide and the length needed for proper lever travel. If I'm lucky it will fit under a trunk lever/gas cap release molding box. The lever would be quick to remove and slide under the passenger seat. The assembly would also be quick to remove and disconnect from the cable, probably a bracket with 2 studs the lever box slides and mounts onto.

Both the lever box actuator (that the lever connects to) and the cylinder box lever would have heavy return springs to quickly release them and hold them in place.

Because of the cable and springs this set-up would require more force to pull the lever but should release as quickly as having the cylinder at the lever.

Does anyone see any flaws in this remote set-up? Release issues?

My first though was to mount another clutch master cylinder to the engine side of the firewall use a quick connect rod extension between the lever box and clutch master arm.
Run the line from the master to an N/A slave clutch cylinder that's mounted to the same bracket as the hydraulic brake cylinder. Cut the slave rod and hydraulic handbrake rod shorter and weld them together.
And use appropriate size springs for fast disengaging of the hydraulic brake.
This would take more space, be hard to hide, and be inconveniently in the way when working on other things. And I though well they make cable clutches.

The only other location to interrupt the rear brake lines would be when they disappear above the gas tank but there is no place to hide the hydraulic handbrake cylinder and with the homemade water/meth I mean only distilled water set-up running in the trunk I don't want to have anything back there they can find.


Any other ideas?
Checked out rally and drift sites but they all run inboard lines and no molding/trim.
 
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