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Discussion Starter #1
im an auto-detailer, and ive worked miracles before with bad paint, faded trim, interior problems, dirty wheels, etc etc. Ive got access to ALL kinds of products to make cars look new(or newer). If you have a problem with your car, let me know what it is, i'll tell you what to do to help it or fix it, i hate it when people let their car turn into an overgrown dirt metroplis. just let me know what youd like to "renew" or "restore"


Eric
 

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MM,

Ok, now that I know that you are a detailer... how long have you been doing this? I also have a black 88mx6 (your cars sister) what have you used with this car to get it looking REALLY good. If you see the pics of my car it is in great shape but needs a bit more polish to give it that extra shine.

I have recently purchased a dewalt 1000-3000 polisher and am in the process of getting the 3M pads that I will be using on the car. This will be my first time doing this so I have a "doner" 92 black MX6 that I will be working on first.... you know in case I make some mistakes. Anyhow these cars have no clear-coat on the black; and I was looking into some of the 3m products to clean it up.

First I was looking at a nice compounding product; then a 3m polish and then I would finish it off with a nice sealant. The question is which ones to use... I would really like to stay with the 3m line since just about everyone I have talked to so far has said it is a great product. Any hints?

I have also worked out a couple of suppliers that I can get most of my pads and such from; since they are quite expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
manifest, i responded to the other topic you aksed the same question at...its long!!

manifest--
I responded in the other thread you asked the same question in, its long, so patience!! i know ways to get your wheels to look new, you should see how clean i got my GT wheels, i got pics to show the difference!!!
 

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I cut/pasted your reply here:

a 92 black donor huh? lol
manifest, well ive been at it over a year, i worked in a body shop for about 8 months, and now been cleaning New cars at a reputable dealership for 7 months. If your going to use a compound on a black car, here is what you must do so you dont get that "oops i buffed too hard" look. depending on the condition of the paint, choose the appropriate compound, for example, my 88 GT that i just bought(havent had time to buff more then a coat of wax into!) has tree sap engraved in the paint, tons of tiny dots, everwhere. at work we use this "MOC magna buff" stuff, its pale light green, and works GREAT!!! i turned my "primered"color black spoiler(they all fade if not taken care of) into black, not perfect but 75% better. you must strip the car of wax, i would mask all emblems and trim(wax in mazda trim is a bitch!)then buff a coat of light-medium compound in. use a 3M foam pad with the raised bumps on it, better constant surface pressure. use the weight of the buffer to go across the paint.
After that, wipe the compound off, if needed do it again. then you must wax. there are two types of wax i use. 1. carnuba wax 2. banana wax. Banana wax is by far better when buffing, most carnuba wax cannot be buffed with. Buff with a cloth pad, terry cloth is the best because it is the softest. I use MOC banana wax when buffing. It works wonders on alot of stuff (even got the bird crap out of the rubber around my sunroof) After your done buffing with wax. wipe it off. Then IF you can find it, find meguiars "mirror finish professional paste wax" with a rating of 16 or higher(any lower you misewell use WD40) apply this wax with the soft pad that come sin the metal canister. TINY circles across your paint, dont scrub, just enough to put the wax on. let that dry for about an hour or two(until it becomes whitish). then get a terry cloth towel and remove all the dead wax...this wax is hard to get off, so dont scrub, take your time!!! hope this helps. BY the way, this 92 mx-6 you call a donor, how is the hood? i need a black hood without rust, my hood has rust spots on the front from rock chips, then the guy bought a bra and it trapped moisture inside ARGG! I need a black hood for my 88 GT(mine also has 7-9 dents from minor hail). anyhow hope this helps!!!!

-Eric
 

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Well, the 92 is a good running car, just no way to get it back to "good" or even nice shape... in other words a perfect "beater" and doner car. GF is using it to drive back and forth to work in so I really didn't want to give up any parts... also if there was a problem with any part of my car, this other car, well it would be missing a part.. :)

After compounding the car, have you had a chance to try any of the 3m one step polishes or waxes? That last waxing step sounds like a pain, and I have been reading up of detailers on the web using some of the 3m products and are getting fantastic results.

Here are some details of their produts; check it out.

http://www.3m.com/us/auto_marine_aero/aad/solutions/ent_acidetch.jhtml
 

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Discussion Starter #6
cool, thanks, big paste and copy eh?

thanks for pasting and copying it!


Eric
 

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Discussion Starter #7
if its a beater, then i can still use the hood, swap it out with mine and make $$$

If you dont care about its appearance, why not swap my hood with its(if it is in decent shape) and i'll give you some bucks for it. i havent used 3m waxes, i havent been exposed to it just yet, but MOC makes a good product. I found a grey new wax for scratches, turtle wax black wax with the stick thing...its tinted black wax!! makes scratches less noticable and its only 8 bucks. another great product meguiars makes is fine cut cleaner, and their vinyl and plastic conditioner, makes the inside smell and Look new. hmm let me know, the last wax step is a paint, but most of the time its not neccessary, just insurance on lack of swirls


Eric
 

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LEFT ON WAX!!!

Okay body man! I just got done painting my car like 3 months ago. I left it for a month before buffing. When I was cleaning, waxing, and polishing my car, I needed my buffer! My buddy left me without giving me back my buffer. Days gone, finally when I got my buffer back, the damn wax was caked on the car!!! I tried buffing it, ended up stripping some clear coat off of my car!!! Can you help me???
 

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Discussion Starter #10
thats odd, how long was the wax on there

what color is the car? if the clear coat is total gone(peeling, bubbling) then i really cant help you too much other then making that section closer match the clear coat. did you leave the wax on and let it bake into the sun? that will do it. otherwise you should have been able to remove the wax with a clean terrycloth towel or a towel of some sort, usually wax doesnt stick hard enough to take clear coat with it

Eric
 

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Hey MazdaMiester,
My stock 88 rims collect and hold brake dust and I can't seem to get it off. They look pited and even at that I can't seem to get even close to getting all of the brake dust off. If you have any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
i had the same problem, keyword HAD

those wheels or notorious for having brake dust problems. Well where i work, we have all kinds of products, the best one is MOC aluminum wheel cleaner/shiner and the second best is Super clean. The super clean you can get anywhere....now heres what you need to do...FIND a power washer, high power sprayed water. spray the wheel with super clean, and then let it sit for a second, then power wash away, use brushes for in the corner. If you email me at [email protected], i'll send you pics of before i cleaned the wheels and after!

Eric
 

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I've been in the Body Shop buisness for the past 5 years and our rule is to never wax a car until about a month of so after painting. If you go to your local PPG, Sherwin Williams/Dupont store and speak to a knowledgable sales rep. they'll tell you all you need to know about waxing and buffing. Our most sucessful finishing touches to our newly painted cars is to wet-sand with 1500 grit and buff it out, usually next day (24 hours), this all depends on clear-coat brand, tempature, reducers and hardners. If you really want your car shining and are planning on re-painting soon, either have your local body-shop wet-sand and buff your car or line up a reputable detail shop for the job. A tip from a 5-year experienced buffer: When machine polishing/buffing STAY OFF SHARP BODY-LINES AND EDGES!! This will be disasterous for your paint job....I learned this real quick!...:D We only use Meguairs and 3M products and these have to be the best.
Also never wax or wash your car in the direct sun-light, this can leave spots, etc. that could take hours and hours to get rid of, if they are removeable. I hope I've helped some. If anyone of you is considering getting a new paint job consult me first. Some Body Shops like to rip people off!!
 

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ok, MazdaMiester

How can I refinish the trim around the back windows from the outside of the car? (the black plastic that is known to fade a lot).

thanks
hmikhael
 

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sorry, I have a 2nd gen but knew you can help
 

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Discussion Starter #16
thats a common problem on mazdas, simple solution if you dont mind alittle work

the same same thing happens to most mazda's, the black trims either fades or peels away to chrome(the peeling away is the worst, that CANT be fixed :( )i would strongly recommend you remove all the faded trim(dont remove black molding) and sand it with some high grain sand paper, 1000 or higher. Then go to the hardware store and buy high temperature grill paint, they sustain very high temps and direct sunlight better then most can. paint the trim, dont paint it if its evenly gray(it may seem corny, but if you do it right it looks NEW) and let it dry, if the paint doesnt dry evenly sand and paint again but if it keeps not going as planned, you'd have to buy new. another way to get your trim darker, is mask all around it(while still on the car) mask windows, everything. Use shoe polish or tire shine, let em sit on there bake in the sun for an hour or two, then do it again. reason i ask you mask is that getting those things off windows and paint is very difficult. let me know how things turn out


Eric
 

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thanks eric, i'll try the shoe polish idea soon, maybe in two weeks though since I don't have too much time to do all that work right now.

Halim
 

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Ok, Ive got a problem for ya. Soon after I got my car, it was winter and I slid into a guard rail at no more than 5mph (my only accident thus far). It was one of those guard rails that are two heavy gauge wires strung between posts. Anyway, they scratched up the hood pretty bad and Ive tried touch up paint and scrach filler, but not much helps. I think they are too big to buff out with a rubbing compound. Any suggestions?

BTW the car is black.
 
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what should i use for my tires and not stain them ive tried everything but my tire always get stained after a while
 

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Discussion Starter #20
SMASH- hmm are they to the metal? what color are the scratches? Turtle wax makes a tinted wax specially for dark and black cars, pick some up at k-mart for like 8 or 9 bucks, give that a try, if its not though the paint, i can probably get that out


AS FOR TIRES:
MOC makes this great tire shine, its called silicon tire shine or dressing, something along those lines, It does NOT stain your tires(it may look like it, but you can rub the discoloration away with ease!) and it makes em look wet! i use it on trim too, works perfectly. VIP(vehicle improvement products) makes stuff called "Instant shine" its an aerosole can that works great, not as good as the moc but better for trim and not as hard to get off paint if you get it on it

Eric
Eric
 
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