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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My name's ozzy and I'm from Charlotte, NC. My friend has an ls and got me hooked, so I bought a "broken" '94 LS for 500$. Lo and behold it was a KLZE, swapped dirty, but a klze. We ran oil stabilizer in it to hush up the lifters but she still idles a bit rough. I'm also still looking for a thermostat line which "disappeared" in the swap. Soon, She'll be running though. Just thought I'd say hi. I look forward to meeting any of you.
 

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kinda sounds like you just need to rebuild that one or get a new one and do it right but i suggest if you do rebuild it or whatever get titanium valve spring retainers cause the stock ze ones break all the time, expecialy if your going to mod it.
 

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No offense mate - but he says "lifters tick", "idles rough" and "needs thermostat" and you jump to "needs rebuild"

??


Idle can be affected by vacuum leaks, IAC failure, TPS improperly adjusted, cracks in the intake track. Not bad bearing, leaking piston rings, bad valve retainers.


Think about things before you post, even if it is the noobie section.

-PEDOBEAR
 

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BULL obviously youve never seen a car that had bad rings, idles like dick 2nd the valve retainers are a weak spot on the ze so whatever he does with it he still should look into replacing them. burned exhaust valve would make it run rough there are alot of things that cause a rough idle so before you try to flame someone know what your talking about
 

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Well. Swamper, you lost that round. PEDOBEAR is correct.

The sad thing is, you obviously realize this is well, since you "come back" was a complete run around. You didnt even defend yourself with facts just a Chicago sports team, and you actually changed it from "leaking rings" to "bad rings" which is no where near the same thing. PEDOBEAR never even mentioned burned valves.

As far as the rings go- it's called a leakdown. Every vehicle has leak down, which is the same thing as rings letting the compression cycle bypass air. It doesn't adjust the idle that much. The average vehicle when new has about 10-15% leak down. A very well built race motor will have about 3-4%. I've seen cars with 35% leak run like a champ at idle, just had some power cut out of them. At idle, it doesn't make much difference. leaking rings won't change an idle. BAD rings will. You know - like missing parts of the rings.

Yes, the retainers are a weak spot. But that doesn't mean crap when he's talking a little rough. A burned out exhaust valve doesnt really change the idle, a cracked/broken valve would. I drove my 91 GT for about 6 miles when it was missing 3/4 of a valve, and it idled rough. It doesnt' really show up at at idle, the carbonization just isn't enough to affect the vehicle during high vacuum periods. That's why no one with any damn sense checks for a burned valve at idle (unless you try the whole suction through the exhaust routine, which is rather lackluster IMO).

Don't try to unflame yourself without thinking. Lots of things CAN cause a car to idle a little rough, but you're jumping to serious conclusions with the whole rebuild thing.

To the OP -

Get a thermostat. You're shocking the motor without one.
Reset TPS
Check IAC
Check timing (a biggie IMO)
Make sure the grounds are on the car are clean
Vac leaks (a mangina on KL motors often)
Make sure the intake tract pipe has no cracks
make sure the intake manifold is not leaking at the gasket


If you've got a vacuum or boost gauge, that will let you check the vacuum leaks much easier.

-Andrew
 

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im not denying that i could be vacuum leak yeah thats true, the lines can also be ran wrong because there different on the ze, witch could be a big cause because whoever swaped it didnt know what they were doing, he also had to "hush" up the lifters, thats a lot of signs that that car has been beat or not taken care of, ze's are very touchy my step mom drove mine for 2 years and it goes threw oil like nothing. he can do a cylinder leak down test and that will tell him if hes got any bad valves, rings. and takes like what 2 minutes to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Actually, I just got through replacing lifters and a burnt vris solenoid, which did contribute to the leak. So, after diagnosis, all I have left should hopefully be adjusting the TPS, and replacing the spring for one of my friction gears, since they aren't ground down, it should just be the spring, or is it called a retainer...But yeah, it looks like I won't need a complete rebuild. You guys do seem to flame pretty hard on here though. Just FYI, I'll be sidelining these little pms battles that I see pop up lol.
 
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