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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I went to the drags again last night, after some problems finally got the car working right and making some power. All I could manage was a [email protected] That was on 13psi, as opposed to 11psi for my previous best of [email protected] on 195's.

One of the biggest problems seems to be traction. I was running on a set of 225's which was still to no avail, as they were still spinning until the end of 2nd. The track here is notoriously bad.

So does anyone have any solutions, especially with regards to suspension as I think that is the next direction I will need to move in.
I want something which has a good balance between handling and straight line performance as that is about the only track type activities we have.

So let me know what everyone reckons!
 

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get some rwd off set rims 15x10 and put some 265's on it should solve the traction issue ;)

you got to get something that wont allow the car to lift as much thats what kills traction on fwd cars..
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Considering the 225's I had only had one finger width between tire and strut and were inline with the outter guard I dont think I will be going any bigger without hanging them outside.

I was more talking about any ideas on shock setup etc.

I think lowering will be the first step, but im wondering what shocks would be suitable.
 

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Yeah well i wouldnt really know :(

Hard shocks and springs would really help it i would think.. but not certain on the ride quality
 

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Hey man wassup? My car used to spin furiously all the time when drag racing. I could spin 1st and 2nd and every and get a chirp into 3rd but it was becoming embarrassing. I would just spin while the other guy gets a 50-100m gain on me :mad: . I recently had my shocks changed to Koni Adjustables and am running King Lowered springs and believe me, this has eliminated ALOT of wheel spin. Even with just the Koni's i raced a twin turbo supra and couldnt even hold out second! :eek: So thats probably the best way to go before we can get a torsen! Cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah the power is there to go quicker, its just not using what its got. 97mph should be good at least mid-low 14's. If it was the same conditions as my previous 96mph im sure that it would have gone 98 or more. It was about 27 degrees on the night, with 3/4 tank of fuel as opposed to ~12degrees and 1/8 of a tank.
Also still have about another 2 psi before I start running out of fuel.


Suspension has a lot to do with it reckon, at the moment it just squats the rear and the fronts start spinning. What are the koni's worth. I think I will get the whole lot done e.g. springs, shocks, sways as I dont want to be only playing straight line games.


On a good note, my terminal speed was 1 mph slower than a gtr familia with 20psi, exhaust, no air filter or interior. Too bad he was running 13.4 though :(
 

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timtx5,

what mods have u done to get the 14.8?
 

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well my hardened springs and shocks certainly make a huge difference...the car rocks back very slightly when i step on the throttle...thus the only time i ever get wheel spin is when i boost it hard (stock boost) around 4000rpm 1st and 2nd gears.

in contrast, my friends mx6 has stock springs and suspension..when i step on his, the rock back is very noticeable and the wheels spin away
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
XsKape - 14.8 was on 3" exhaust, CAI and 10.5psi

The 15.1 was on 13psi with chipped ecu and the mods above. Was on 225's. I played around with stuff too much like the tires, if i had more runs I would have got it going a lot quicker. 4 of my 6 runs had a boost leak too, I didnt fix that until the last 2 and didnt have time to get my boost and driving up to scratch.

Now its chipped I can run up 15psi.

Like i said the 14.8 was in much much better conditions, was too hot this time and the track was dirty.
 

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After being in mine and Tripharn's MX6. I had bigger, much grippier tyres, and less power and Tripharn has lower, stiffer springs and more traction than me. I chirped third, huge amount of wheel spin in second and first was useless. Tripharn gets off the line quite well in first.
 

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It needs new rear shocks and springs to stop the rear squat

If you want the best set-up do that and leave your front as is now, you will find grip off the makr to increase heaps.

I knwo cause even on the Wagon when it had nothign down back it could do 2nd for 5-10seconds it is was just a tad wet or even in the dry up steep hill pushed hard.
Now it's really hard to get it to break with every thing so tight up.
 

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tim,
I had my standard shocks reconditioned AND shortened.. shortened because i wanted to lower the car further than the bump stop clearance would allow me.
You want to reduce lift at the front... the front shocks are responsible for keeping the front down on launch.
At the rear you want stiff springs this reduces squat.

The shocks to be rebuilt and shortened is $120 each in brisbane.
I have a video of mine down the track and there is very little squat.

hope that helps
cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
my4isrobs - cool, good to hear. So by shortening them you still retained some travel as opposed to just lowering too far and have virtually none?

Its really a little ridiculous, everyone said how much I had to fight the torque steer and that i looked like I was about to cross into the other lane on one occasion.
 

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I’m sussing out making up some phantom grips locally..
They wont give you much better off the line grip .. more cornering and over all driving handling..
Stay tuned ..
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The thing I dont like about the PG's is that they appear to put more stress on the spider gears, which surely isnt a good thing in these cars.



Anyway I have a solution for the diff, just where did I leave my welder exactly :)
 

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Fatter tyres doesn't automatically equal more traction. Consider how much grip a tack gets pointy end down as opposed to the fat end down. It's about finding a balance, if you have nice soft racing tyres, sure they stick like **** to wool and having them wide is good (like velco say) but if you are running street tyres that are struggling for grip running wider ones is going spread the weight of the car over a larger area and reduce the downward pressure on each square cm making contact with the ground, making them more likely to slip.

On the road wider can certainly be better because it can be uneven and so on but it's not quite the same for the drags.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yeah i think I have realised that one now. Wasn't pretty on those tires anyway.
 

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what were 60' 's like tim? I'm so over the track up here, last time i went i had it running much better than when i ran the 15.7, and ran 16.2's all night :( I'm not going back there 'till i get a ze, we'll see if I get a 17 then :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
2.45-2.7 60 footers! Damn dirt track! It gets worse as the night goes on though hey, traction was good while the car wasnt running right, then it went to **** as the dirt got dumped onto the track.
 
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