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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
sorry redbond. you made me wanna post pictures too :)






somebody please source me a 3-4" exhaust tip that isnt 40$.


i also got a couple more toys :D



 

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Laguna lip. :tup:

How's the weather down there? Your car appears to still be in winter mode.

I think black cars in particular should be claybar'd at least once every 6 months. It really helps the paint to shine and give the black a deeper look.

I don't see any other body parts in those pictures. What's the hold up? I painted mine in my apartment and they are a damn close color match.

PS. Is that a bored TB?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
or is it a Mk1 laguna lip?
dingding
How's the weather down there? Your car appears to still be in winter mode.
i was going to put the rims on, and the hood. But i want to get it running right before i do that (started on that today... no more code 5!!! and a new colder thermostat) so im not tempted to go out and race.
I don't see any other body parts in those pictures. What's the hold up? I painted mine in my apartment and they are a damn close color match.

PS. Is that a bored TB?
the hold up is all this random crap happening at once.

in the next month i'll have:
lsi sidepods
cf hood
rims
full dual feed setup with all 6an stainless braided lines and aeromotive fpr (im most pumped on this)
straight neck ZE mani
millenia injectors
ZE intake cams
port matched pheno's
probinator chip
new rear calipers
new e-brake lines
front and rear powerslots and hawk pads
SS goodridge brake lines
150 shot of nitrous.


the last one is a joke, but ive got my work cut out for me.

oh yeah, and i'll be hustling my bushings all next month on PT.
that will be fun...
 

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That's a nice list. I hope everything goes smoothly.

I might get your bushings installed today. I already installed something else that is super fun and awesome. I'll update my other thread later with pictures.

You missed one questions I had. Is that a stock TB or bored over?
 

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looks great colin, i quit spending money on mine, i just want it gone. your first in line for the trunk if i part it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
its just a stock ZE throttle body. i might go for a bored one, but then again the guy on here only got a 2HP gain from his.

i need to make it idle right with a stock boy first.
 

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my car doesnt idle right with my 65mm one. sometimes i have to turn the ac compressor on to keep it from dying, never really took the time to figure out why it does it or tried to fix it.
 

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my car doesnt idle right with my 65mm one. sometimes i have to turn the ac compressor on to keep it from dying, never really took the time to figure out why it does it or tried to fix it.
happens to quite of bit of people on here with bored TB's. but mostly fixes itself on its own.. hm weird. my guess is its leaking..

car looks REALLY clean, just WAY better pics next time. and congrats on the parts.
 

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where the hell u get that lip at... i can't find that thing anywhere. looks like it fits just a tad better than a 240sx lip
 

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Clay bar is like silly putty. You wash the car and then you use soap or a special spray to lubricate the clay bar. You knead the clay bar until it gets soft. Then you rub it on the paint and it removes all the built up stuff on the paint.

You will immediately notice how much it is taking off because the finish will be smooth as hell and the clay bar will get dirty as hell. When it gets too dirty you just squeeze it back into itself until you have a cleaner spot to work with. The first time I did my car I went through 2 clay bars.
 

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and a new colder thermostat) so im not tempted to go out and race.


The only T-stat that I have found for our cars is a 170* alternate temp version sold by STANT.

PN ST14047 or just 14047 depending, I got mine at Advance auto parts for $11.00.

Stock is 180 and most people look for a 160 T-stat so it seems a nice middle of the road compromise since the 160* stats usualy require flasshing/ chipping the ECU for proper opperation.




new rear calipers
new e-brake lines
front and rear powerslots and hawk pads
SS goodridge brake lines

You should atleast step up to my 626 brakes :) Since your allready replacing the rotors stepping up to 626/MazdaSpeed Protege rotors is a minor difference in price and the 626 slider brackets/carriers hold MX-6/Probe style pads stock.

You would need to buy a matching front caliper/bracket set as your stockers wont work with the newer bracket but the rear calipers can be kept with the new brackets.

Most cost effective way is to buy "loaded" front calipers and toss the pads that come with them in a drawer as spares and if you can get them cheap a set of used rear brackets to mount your stock rear calipers. Or if the rears allready need replacement a set of loaded calipers all around isnt that much more.


Trust me if any one needs more brakes it's a guy with a boosted DE.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
where the hell u get that lip at... i can't find that thing anywhere. looks like it fits just a tad better than a 240sx lip
pawel got it for me from poland
Explain clay bar to me... plz
the best thing for an old paint job :)

go to wallmart or anywhere that sells car stuff, and get the meguiars brand kit. It comes with everything you need and its only 16$.
The only T-stat that I have found for our cars is a 170* alternate temp version sold by STANT.
.
i was told to never EVER use a stant. i had bought an "OEM" thermostat from mazda, and when i pulled out the one from my motor and showed my shop owner the old one and the new one he said "damnit, those bastards". and ive never even heard him cuss. Mazda sold me a stant inside an oem mazda box.

luckly he went to his parts side of the shop and came back with an OEM honda thermostat, and it fit perfectly. Its an oem one for any civic/accord, and its at 170*.


on the 626 brakes, i should have looked into that before. If they used the same rotors as the mx6 then i would be all over it, because i already have the powerslot rotors for the front and the back.
 

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I have no experience with stant personaly but since my 2 year old parts store T-stat seems to be cycling and causing the car to go into the red daily I thought I would give it a shot. It's possible that Mazda used stant as an OEM supplier in the first place like KYB for struts and on later Mazdas Tokico.

What's the part number for that stat? Or failing that what year and engine did they come on.

As for the brakes if they used the same rotor they wouldnt be an upgrade ;) The pads are the same and so are the critical caliper specs.

I guess you'll do ok with stock sized rotors and better pads if you dont plan on tracking the car, but with boost you can get to much higher speeds on a road course and I think you'll find the limits of the stock brakes rather quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
are the 626 brakes REALLY that much of a difference?

the brakes on this thing have never really felt good. spongy and just.. idk. not very powerful.
 

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are the 626 brakes REALLY that much of a difference?

the brakes on this thing have never really felt good. spongy and just.. idk. not very powerful.
They feel solid and much better than the stockers did and you'll notice them grabbing better with the same pressure on the pedal but it's not all that dramatic with stock type pads like I use and you'll get used to it quickly. Then it'll feel just like stock to you but you'll have the added fade resistance when you need it.

If yours felt spongy and weak then they were proabably pretty bad to begin with. Mine got really bad before I discovered the 626 upgrade so I cant claim a direct comparison.

You should flush the brakes and go with a good DOT3 fluid. I'll find you a good description of the various fluids available so you can decide what works best for you.

I would put your spongy brakes down to old fluid with a significant amount of water in it along with worn and glazed pads and rotors so what ever size your rotors end upo being the feel and performance should improve drasticly.
 
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