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I'm getting really sick of looking at my car and seeing scratches, door dings, acid stained paint, etc... I want to fix it ALL. I need some advice on how to go about doing it. Obviously I want the whole car repainted, which I will have someone do, but I dont want to repaint it with a whole bunch of dents. That would be dumb. Most of them arent bad, just door dings. The passengers rear door has so many of them that I think I might just replace the whole door instead of bondo-ing them all. Then there's the bad damage I have on the passengers side rocker panel. I dont know how it got there, as it was there when I got the car, but it's kinda, well, bashed in on the underside, which isnt really visible, but it's pretty dented right below the front door which is visible. I was thinking of just installing a body kit, which would cover it up, but body kits are expensive as hell. What should I do? Should I bondo all the dents myself and then have it painted?
 

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Anarchy, obviously you are planning on having the car for quite a while. I say save up and take it to a professional who can do everything and is totally competent. Do it once and do it right. You are guaranteed to like the results this way. Doing the bondo yourself... why put yourself through that? Let someone else do it and sit back knowing it was done right and looks good. No offense or anything. I'm not saying that you wouldn't or couldn't do it right. I just know that I wouldn't trust myself to bondo my own car. Actually tried it before with my first car after someone keyed the crap out of it at college. Pain in the a$$. Looked worse after I tried to work my magic.

Just my 2¢
 

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I think 2Rusty has the right idea. Unless you're pretty confident that you can do it right, I'd look to a professional for it. By the way, how's the new turbo treating you?
 

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If i where you, i would have someone else do it. But if it was me, i would do it because i have had 2 years exp. in bodyshop. I would only do it to save money and to say that i done it.
 

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additional question.....

on my 6, I have what look to be rivet dimples on the rear quarter panels... are they something that can be tapped back out, or will it need filler/sanding.....

also, once the clearcoat starts to peel (drivers door), is it game over, or can it be repaired???
 

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Try and keep as much bondo or filler off your car as possible. First have the Dent Wizzard take out most of the dings and such. Then look to have the rest taken "filled" out and painted. The prep work for the paint job is the most expensive part of the job, you can minimize this by doing some of this work yourself. If possible you can even remote most of the trim; lights ect before you have it painted and replace it after it is done.

If I was ever to get my car painted this is the route I would take. It would be stripped then painted then reassembled. (but hey, I'm a perfectionist - I just can't spell... :) )
 

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linoleum, what color is your car?

the rivet dimples should be fixed by body puty, i wouldnt attempt to put out tiny dents like that, you'll only waste your time. As for the peeling paint, is it the clear coat? let me guess your car is maroon or silver? i have an 87 626 dx that the paint is about gone from, i have some clear coat wax(im an auto-detailer) that may make it shine. if the clear coat is gone, totally, then its game over :(


Eric
 

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eric

thanks for the 411. yeah, on the drivers door, you can see a distinct line where the clearcoat is peeling. the rest of the car is a little oxidized, but not too shabby for a 10 yr old. And yes, its a red one.
 

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is there still paint or is it just metal? i may be able to help!!

if there is still paint, i have this clear coat wax, that man i tell you what, makes things look like new, you HAVE to buff several coats of it in, but it works great! better then any other wax ive used. its at my work, so i'll get you the name of it thursday when i go back. I think it is called MOC banana wax but i could be mistaken. is your car RED or maroon? if its RED there is a local salvage yard with a red DX, the door is pristine(the whole car is, tranny is blown up) that sells doors for 35-45 bucks(depending on who you catch at the register :p) could be a cheap fix for a big problem

Eric
 

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a 92 black donor huh? lol

manifest, well ive been at it over a year, i worked in a body shop for about 8 months, and now been cleaning New cars at a reputable dealership for 7 months. If your going to use a compound on a black car, here is what you must do so you dont get that "oops i buffed too hard" look. depending on the condition of the paint, choose the appropriate compound, for example, my 88 GT that i just bought(havent had time to buff more then a coat of wax into!) has tree sap engraved in the paint, tons of tiny dots, everwhere. at work we use this "MOC magna buff" stuff, its pale light green, and works GREAT!!! i turned my "primered"color black spoiler(they all fade if not taken care of) into black, not perfect but 75% better. you must strip the car of wax, i would mask all emblems and trim(wax in mazda trim is a bitch!)then buff a coat of light-medium compound in. use a 3M foam pad with the raised bumps on it, better constant surface pressure. use the weight of the buffer to go across the paint.
After that, wipe the compound off, if needed do it again. then you must wax. there are two types of wax i use. 1. carnuba wax 2. banana wax. Banana wax is by far better when buffing, most carnuba wax cannot be buffed with. Buff with a cloth pad, terry cloth is the best because it is the softest. I use MOC banana wax when buffing. It works wonders on alot of stuff (even got the bird crap out of the rubber around my sunroof) After your done buffing with wax. wipe it off. Then IF you can find it, find meguiars "mirror finish professional paste wax" with a rating of 16 or higher(any lower you misewell use WD40) apply this wax with the soft pad that come sin the metal canister. TINY circles across your paint, dont scrub, just enough to put the wax on. let that dry for about an hour or two(until it becomes whitish). then get a terry cloth towel and remove all the dead wax...this wax is hard to get off, so dont scrub, take your time!!! hope this helps. BY the way, this 92 mx-6 you call a donor, how is the hood? i need a black hood without rust, my hood has rust spots on the front from rock chips, then the guy bought a bra and it trapped moisture inside ARGG! I need a black hood for my 88 GT(mine also has 7-9 dents from minor hail). anyhow hope this helps!!!!

-Eric
 
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Anarchy, my MX-6 had the same problem with the factory paint, so I opted for a professional paint job. If you plan on keeping the car for a long time, you may want to choose a high quality paint such as Dupont paint that I had my car painted with. The body shop claimed the Dupont paint job came with a lifetime warranty and was not as easily chipped as cheaper paints do. That was two years ago and the paint job looks exactly as it did the day it was repainted. 2Rusty's post has the right idea.......Hope this info is helpful.
 

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Anyone have an educated guess for how much it might cost to have rust repaired? Old Faithful has corrosion bubbling up on the right rear quarterpanel (aft corner of the wheelwell cutout), under a paint chip on the leading edge of the hood, and just inboard of the right side rocker panel, about even with the trailing edge of the door on the underside...
 

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i have rust too, it bites

i have rust on the rear of both my rear wheel wells, rust spots all over the front of the hood from rock chips, and rust on the drivers A pilar(the scariest place!) i found a local guy that will fix all but the hood, im going to just go ahead and get another hood, and have it painted. That is your best bet for your hood. If you hood is mint other then the small rust, id get it fixed, otherwise your beter off finding a salvage hood(in your color would be ideal!) but if you cant get your color you can get any and get it painted for about 100 bucks, plus you have NO more rock chips


Eric
 
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