[MX6WCU]

I'd first like to say that i have searched ....and i found this link too........ http://rogue.bucks.edu/~0257335/IAT/ ...it doesn't work anymore. I was wondering if someone could lead me to another link or explain what i would have to do to complete this mod for a 95/ls. thanks

 

[cheerios165]

IAT will help not at all, but if you want to do it, go to radioshack and buy a resistor, i dont remember the size, they are 5 for $1
i have a bunch lying around here i'll sell it to you for $5 shipped if you want

 

[MX6WCU]

hmm.....i thought all you had to do was cut a wire and hook a switch to the wires....maybe we're thinking of two different things here....i was thinking about the automatic mod to get rid of the luxury shift

 

[cheerios165]

yes.....we are...........im thinking intake air temputure sensor.....

sorry i dont have an automatic so i cant help you

 

[Aussomea]

ur both thinking of the same mod except u dont need a resister and it does work. all u have to do is cut the wire closest to the front of the car on the vaf wiring harness, then u can run a switch to it if u want. its that easy. enjoy })

 

[MX-Sixy Mama]

? xactly is this mods purpose?

 

[jessefrank]

The IAT Mod is susposed to fool the ECU into thinking the incoming air is cooler than it actually is, therefore advancing the timing and producing more HP over stock. Does it work? I've tried it on a different vehicle and didn't notice any results. At least not what the sellers of these types of Mods claim(+20 hp, etc.). I wouldn't be able to tell you for sure, having not put the vehicle on a Dyno.
One thing is for sure, I wouldn't pay the money for it off the internet.
I know that for most vehicles you place a resistor of some sort in the power loop going to the IAT Sensor to accomplish the Mod. I'm not sure about doing it on the 2.5L, but cutting a wire seems to go against the resistor philosophy.

-Jesse

 

[Aussomea]

The IAT Mod is susposed to fool the ECU into thinking the incoming air is cooler than it actually is, therefore advancing the timing and producing more HP over stock. Does it work? I've tried it on a different vehicle and didn't notice any results. At least not what the sellers of these types of Mods claim(+20 hp, etc.). I wouldn't be able to tell you for sure, having not put the vehicle on a Dyno.
One thing is for sure, I wouldn't pay the money for it off the internet.
I know that for most vehicles you place a resistor of some sort in the power loop going to the IAT Sensor to accomplish the Mod. I'm not sure about doing it on the 2.5L, but cutting a wire seems to go against the resistor philosophy.

-Jesse

your right and your wrong. thats not how it works or what it does on our car. when the auto trans on the kl03 shifts, theres a fuel cut off, when u cut the wire. the fuel stays on between shifts at high rpm. its results in much harder shifts. some people say it cuts .1 or .2 off ur 1/4 mile but ive never tested this. it does work tho!! and all u have to do is cut the wire!

 

[SlammedSix]

i will say this it definately works and it definately cuts .2 seconds off your time...with my car 94 V-6 ATX HD CAI, IAT, 2.25 Cat-back..i ran a 15.9...best....but i would definately say it knocks off some valuable time...and its free

Cut the wire closest to the front of the car and run a switch in the car...you know you did it right too cause when you turn the switch on (disconnecting the wire) the CEL will come on

 

[NonCorp]

Check it... This mod definatley works. Upshifts are much harder and you lose much less RPMs between shifts. You should install a trans cooler if you plan on using this mod often, as when the IAT is deactivated the trans fluid pressure is increased and heat builds up faster reducing the life of your transmission.

Not sure which one is which, but you should cut the incoming wire to the IAT if you are using a switch with a light, so that the light does not dim when the resistance goes up in the IAT. Transversley, if the light dimming does not bother you, using the return wire from the IAT can give you a general idea of the air temp goin through the VAF, ie, the light on switch being dimmer or brighter...

Adding the switch(before or after IAT) also increases resistance slightly making the ecu think that air temperature is slightly lower than it actually is while IAT is still enabled. I noticed the difference the first time I drove it after the mod.