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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have a 1993 ford telstar tx5 ax 2litre i4 banger5 speed manual


problems

what wires do i connet the air/fuel ratio up as i have tryed the wires on the o2 sensor but it just wont work

problem 2

before i gave the idle air screw 2 full turns i unplugged the iac to make sure it was working and which it was

now when driving and coming to a stop my idle aka rpm will sit at 1100rpm and climb to 1500rpm and then rev up and down and sit on about 600rpm


what will be the problem i can allso make a clip of what i mean aswell
 

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its coz u fucked with that screw. stop trying to get stupid power gains by adjusting a screw and do something worthwile.
 

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*sigh*
ill also agree
 

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Why nothing worked obviously have no idea

This information is for all
Stock 02 sensor is 3 wire

2 heater wire and one signal. Depending on type - Eg factory aftermarket OEM or aftermarket universal.

Use a multimeter to determine the output.

Why do it period is good question

The stock 02 sensor and any 02 sensor below approx $250 trade will only be a NARROW BAND sensor. EG it wil lread in effect between a range of 15:1 AFR to about 13:1 fairly evenly. Most like single wire are even more narrow.
Tihs is to be used onyl for closed loop.

They are totally useless for Tuning etc.
To get a real 02 sensor for tunning you must get either, a Wide band 1 volt- or the wideband 3 volt.
Then you can even move up to the 4 wire - with return signal.

Please note this.
DO NOT USE a wideband 02 sensor on STOCK ECU.
It will not allow it to work any better.

90% of pre Euro 4 emission cars - in australia that means Pre 2001 cars. Or 1998 for those who know that it came in effect that year.
02 sensors are used for clsoed loop - cycle operations.

Newer cars like the new falcon and Hodlen Alloytech and alot of Japanese and european makes .

Now use the 02 sensor of wideband - reason they have dropped in price. As standard fittment. Varying in type.
Some are now able ot read down to 16:1 up to 13:1 accurately. Not quite as wide as full wide band but cost is higher at approx $150. That's each sensor and a BMW 6 has two of them.
They are heated and very quick to work.

On a BMW at idle they allow a tune of 15:1 AFR and at cruise down to 16:1
Yes 16:1 very loean but this allows for really good economy.
It also allows the cat's which are now placed closer to exhasut manifolds to heat up even higher and sustain the heat make the cars more cleaner burning.

So back on the 02 sensor AFR -

Unles you have a true Wide band - All you ever see is Rich and depending on the gauge - the Jaycar kit you adjust = who knows if it really is 14.7:1 you just think it is.

Same goes for many aftermarket gauges. IT depends on the sensor.
the only one's I know that really work well is Greedy AFR but it's approx $800 including sensor.
Motec's one for it's M800 and universal
Dyno Dynamics do sell a mix of a one which allows operaters to use differrent types etc or he hi end one. I think each snesor is approx $500.
Then you have some others by Snap-on And Launch who provide diagnostic tooling for workshops

Again most of these are extremely stable and acurate.

I use bosch wideband setup - Sensor is approx $280. Excluding reading equipment. But I use it with my adaptronic -so thats for free. I even use it for clsoed loop Some say it's bit much for 02 sensor but it will last 50,000km's and buy another one.
When you can freeway at 15.5:1 AFR uptill 3000rpm. Extra unbunrt allows for more thrash time.

Oh and search for setting up the idle it's goign to be around here on the site somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
its coz u [fizzle]ed with that screw. stop trying to get stupid power gains by adjusting a screw and do something worthwile.


um the reason why i adjusted it because it was running rich in the fucking first place and i wasent trying to gain anything
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ok this is what i mean when its warmed up from cold i get this bouncing idle and revs to 2000rpm and about 15mins into driving it stops doing it i allso forgot to mention that i flushed the radiator out on that day aswell like i allways do every month

YouTube - wierd idle/rpm problem
 

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Lol, I don't know why you guys jumped at him and say that he trying to gain something from this....

*watches youtube video*

I thought you was in park, doing 60kms. :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
hell noooooooooooo

*cv wont hold*
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
because its a service i do to prevent blockage
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
no nasty shit comes out. pure all the time. its just a thing i do with maintance
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
all fixed now problem was cooling wasent probably bleed so i re done my radiator and all is well i hope this thread will help out people in the near futur if they come across this problem
 

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You flush your rad' once a month and don't know how to bleed it properly?

I hope you put coolant in there every time and not just plain water.

Though I don't know why in the hell you would do it so often anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
nah i use plain water never had a problem with over heating on the ax i have seen alot of cars useing coolent and they get over heating problems

and the reason why that the radiator wasent bleed probably was because my pod filter fell of and i went back to that street where i heard a bang to go look for it and then forgot all about it so yes people do make mistakes you know and yes i do know how to bleed the dam radiator i never said that i didnt know how to
 

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dude coolant isnt actualy there to cool anything, its to lubricate and stop parts rusting
 

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Yes, flushing your radiator every month is absolutely pointless eccept to clear out the scale that using tap water would be causing.

Aluminium does not like plain tap water.

The ions in plain tap water cause corrosion.
Yes the water may come out looking clean but just think about the water galleries in your heads slowly getting eaten away.

Do yourself a favour and stop wasting your time flushing every month and run some good coolant flushing every 12 months as ample with good quality stuff.

Yah it costs a bit but so does all the welding that your heads are going to need when your blow the head gasket.
 

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So true,

I recently cleaned the cooling system on my BG (before I sold it) and I used that radiator cleaner stuff, as the previous owner had used tap water, I followed the directions on the bottle. It was just caked up with rusty sludge.

Then I flushed the hell out of it, by hooking a garden hose up to one of the heater lines and running it (and the car for about 5 minutes) until the water was both clear and not slimy (slimy condition between the fingers indicates the presence of the caustic radiator cleaner)

Then filled it with 33% glycol and rest demineralised water....ran fine...no over heating probs, even with me flogging it..

I always use 33% glycol in all my cars, never had a problem with over heating.

Anti freeze not only contains glycol but corrosion inhibiters....which you need to mix up at least 25-50% in order for them to work effectively (beware that 5% pre mix shit) mix your own.

You have to remember that with different metals ( that the engine is made out of ) and plain water you get galvanic corrosion, which is why you need the corrosion inhibiting properties of anti freeze solution.

Of course you could use plain corrosion inhibiters without anti freeze ( you can get it for diesel gensets) but why would you bother anti freeze work well enough in 99% of cases.
 
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