Mazda MX-6 Forum banner

Idle Problem...

1176 Views 12 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  anthrax1202
okay... so my idle is jacked up. I will start it up and it sits and about 1100... the rpms will slowly start to climb to 2000 and then drop back down imediatly and repeat itself.... kinda throwin me for a loop.

I have my TPS set right before where the fan kicks in so its not on when just when my key is turned, but when i turn the car on and try to set my idle lower in diagnostics mode the fan kicks on and the rpms go up about 500 rpms... idk if the two problems are related?
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
what about your IAC? Have you tried closing the screw all the way and then giving it 3 complete turns to open it?
Did you check codes?
i check for codes and there was none stored.
anyone??? i can't seem to get my idle to chill out!! i turned it all the way down and now its at 1100rpms and doesnt jump. BUT i have no idea how to get it lower... i can't adjust it any farther with the idle screw. somethings not right???
...

i thought with the ze revs were expected around 1100? is that just in park? mine does the same thing when "idling" until I put it into gear. For some reason it drops down to 650 when Im driving around.

I did a little trick before I realized i had a TPS screw. On the throttle lever (you know the one you can push under the hood to rev the car without being in it :angel:) there is a nut and bolt holding the throttle to stock settings... i broke the little weld on that nut and bolt and set it that way...

i wouldnt recommend doing that unless you are absolutely sure you know what youre doing. and i KNOW you do but this isnt advice for other members. of course this was to get it to idle higher so i dont remember if you can lower it that way. its worth a look.

edit: idle jumping is not normal unless its not getting enough power, id say you have plenty. im not sure lowering your rpms will help that. did you check your throttle body for gunk? all vacuum hoses are solid? dont think its a sensor b/c of the codes but still.... thats a pretty common source. IM gaskets good?
See less See more
i know theres a trick where you take brake cleaner and spray the engine down and if it bogs down it means theres a vac leak, but i didnt find one so i'm pretty sure thats not it, but it doesnt hurt to double check i suppose. when i first installed the ZE i had to use the screw on the throttle lever to lower my idle and that's maxed out now so i can't get it to lower anymore that way.

It initially idles at about 650 right at start untill i rev it. Then it sits at about 1100 and thats with clutch pushed in at idle.
we are talking about the bolt that the throttle lever rests on right? if you look at where the TB mounts up to the IM right in line with that just behind it. should be able to come all the way out if one were so inclined.

you should be able to lower it down all the way, pretty close to choke. im not familiar with the ze, i know they have different cams and i dont know spec idle.

1100 isnt terrible but you should be able to lower it. with all the ze's running around someone should be able to give you an idea what normal idling is.
i know theres a trick where you take brake cleaner and spray the engine down and if it bogs down it means theres a vac leak, but i didnt find one so i'm pretty sure thats not it, but it doesnt hurt to double check i suppose. when i first installed the ZE i had to use the screw on the throttle lever to lower my idle and that's maxed out now so i can't get it to lower anymore that way.

It initially idles at about 650 right at start untill i rev it. Then it sits at about 1100 and thats with clutch pushed in at idle.
I'm having the same problem that you've described here. Except the opposite. Steady at 1100 rpm, rev it and it drops to 650. Happens at every stoplight. I'm thinking it may be my TPS even though it seems to be working properly it's throwing a code. The voltage doesn't rise as I increase the throttle position..it stays below spec at .08v. I'm getting a replacement soon and will post here if it makes a difference. I do have a DE, but the TPS is the same if I recall.
yeah, the tps is the same so you should deffinently post back if it fixs your problem.
yeah, the tps is the same so you should deffinently post back if it fixs your problem.
My post above should read "it's NOT throwing a code". Added this because yours isn't either. I've found faulty parts before that weren't showing codes...
yeah, the tps is the same so you should deffinently post back if it fixs your problem.
How do you adjust your idle? I've always jumped the TEN and GRND, turn the car on, then adjust to 650rpm. I just tried a different way and so far my idle is rock steady. A little low at around 600, but I can't get it to fluctuate with the clutch like before.

The new way I did it was to open the Idle air screw three full turns from closed, jump the GRND and TEN, then start it up. This results in about 400rpm.

THEN turn off the car, remove jumper, and disconnect the battery for 60 sec, apply brake, reconnect the NEG cable and....it idles around 600rpm. If not, it should be close. Drive around for the next couple days to see if your idle is steady.

I got the procedure from here MX6 - Probe Files a bunch of procedures in zip format, the Timing-TPS-Idle_adjustment is the one you want.

Hope this helps, just did it today so time will tell. My TPS is working properly BTW, so it wasn't that. I was just diagnosing it incorrectly.
See less See more
i put it in diagnosis mode(jumped ten and grnd) then adjust 3 turns open. didnt fix my problem... i'm now pretty sure it might be a vacuum leak i'm gunna have to go over all of my lines again and make sure my IM's gasket is fine.
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top