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Discussion Starter #1
car problems right now..wont start unless it is pull started and wont idle, i lost fire on #2 cylinder and dont know why..compression is good, getting fuel, new plugs, new plug wires, new cap new rotor and no fire..and my check engine light is on...so i dont know what else to replace with out changing ECU or distrubutor..if you know anything let me know

1988 Maxda Mx-6 2.2L Turbo 5spd
 
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question

what is the sequence to getting the car to spit a code? that may assist me..do you have to turn the key 3 times or what?
 

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Check out www.performanceprobe.com to get the codes and the how-to. It is weird that just one plug is not getting spark; I see that you did a compression check, but how do you know that #2 is no good. Did you get your wires mixed up when replacing them cap/plugs/wires combo?
 
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no all wires were installed correctly and so was the rotor..when we get the car running we pull all the plug wires off 1,3,4 have spark out the ass and are arcing.#2 is dead..the plug shows no sign of hitting and when you pull the and hook the plug wire to and turn it over the spark is intermitting...
 

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I know it's a long shot but maybe bad plug wire? Try switching #2 wire with another on distributor and see if you get spark.
 

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2Rusty said:
I know it's a long shot but maybe bad plug wire? Try switching #2 wire with another on distributor and see if you get spark.
That's what I'm thinking. Wouldnt be the first time I've expereinced this.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
noticed BOV

i idled the car up with the throttle cable so i could use both hands to check things with.. my BOV seems to be failing as well i hear it whistling at a idle i cover the exhuast side of the BOV and the car idle's up and smooths out..it is very loud as well it is the original BOV for the car..can i use any other BOV's in its place? i heard of some guys using Eclipse BOV's..i need to know how to check the car for code's..how do you pull it out? what is the proper compression for the Turbo engine with 7:8-1 compression...the dealer said compression should be 75-85PSI and a shop said that all engines should be 150PSI..but all engines have different compression...150PSI should be around 9:0-1 right?
 

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Hold the phone... so your spark problem is fixed? If it were me, I wouldn't try to diagnose anything else until that is fully taken care of.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
ok i installed a BOV and a distributor. there is a difference in distributor's in the N/A and turbo cars...mine had a N/A distributor in it...i got fire in #2 and i got it to idle..check engine light is still on and wont start on her own..she wants to start but is lacking something..im going to buy one of those hand held scanners from auto zone and run the codes and see what i get..they want 29.95 for it and the local shops want $58-$75 for hook up of diagnostic...
 
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i ran the self test code with check engine light and it told me my coolant sensor is bad..code was a "9"..but it was a 89 code book..mine is a 88..was there and differencee's in codes from yrs?..my temp. gauge works fine..odd....what would the throttle positioning sensor or the crankshaft positioning sensors do?
 

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Coolant temp sensor for the dash and the one for the computer are different. I had this go bad on my 92 and it would start cold but it would not start if the car was warm. I have heard of the reverse happening where it would not start cold but it would start warm. All has to do with this sensor.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
ok give me more guidance on the locations of these sensors so i can find them in the junk yrd or local parts house's..i know where the one is on the engine and my gauge works so im thinkin the one in the dash the problem..
 
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Discussion Starter #13
code description as it is in the performance probe web page...


09 : Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
 

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OK to answer some of your questions. The codes for an 88 and 89 are the same. Your coolant sensors are located on and behind the thermostat cover. The one on the cover itself is for the fan. Then there's the other 2 behind it. The one you're looking for has a squarish 2 pronged plug. Test it with a multimeter according to the specs outlined in your shop manual.
 
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ok i will get on those sensors tomorrow after work..i take it i have 2 bad sensors cause she wont start hot or cold...i did a compression check on all 4 cylinders on my own and it was 60lbs all the way across the board..is that low for 7:8-1? when i pull start she runs fine.. turbo boost's good drives fine..doesnt smoke or knock..i hear a tappet every now and then..i drive it up and down the driveway of my house..about a 1/8th mile or so..get up to 3rd gear..i drop the clutch in 1st hard and hit 2nd no problems
 

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Your compression is 60psi? If that's true then that's your problem. I find it hard to believe though. I dont think the car would even run with that little compression. Compression should be at least 120. Mine was 150 on all 4.
 

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It won't run at 60psi so you tester is wrong. When I cooked my first motor I had 75psi accross the board and it didn't start. You need a compression tester that screws into the spark plug holes. That will give you a more accurate reading. The push and hold kind suck.
 
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its a brand new screw in compression tester...i bought just so i could test my compression...i took each plug out and hooked up the tester and turned it over with wide open throttle till the gauge stopped moving....each cylinder had 60-LBS of compression
 

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Well, I'm sorry to tell you but something is SERIOUSLY wrong with your engine.
 
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