I have no clue as to how much a wideband runs, as you well know I am just now approaching the time that I might need one. Since having one is looking to be prudent in the near future to get the most performance out of this turbo, I'd be interested. My question is, how much are they usually & then what's gonna be the discounted price ( ballpark) ????
Innovate LC1 Feeler thread.
Who would be interested in an LC1 from one of our sponsors "DIY Autotune" for a discounted rate? The price and quantity needs to bee descussed along with the amount of interested persons within the forum.
I feel this is one of, if not the best way to obtain the best performance from any vehicle.
Matt Cramer with DIY Autotune will be our source for information on this, but please do not PM him with a million question. Please ask your question within this thread to reduce the ammount of time Matt has to answer.
I feel this is one of, if not the best way to obtain the best performance from any vehicle.
Matt Cramer with DIY Autotune will be our source for information on this, but please do not PM him with a million question. Please ask your question within this thread to reduce the ammount of time Matt has to answer.
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LC-1s normally run around $199 on their own. Most of our LC1/gauge package are $289, although there's options that are cheaper or more expensive. Exactly how much we can take off for a group buy will depend on how many people are in, but if we have a decent number of people we can definitely top the $10 off mentioned in the chip comparison thread where this idea got started.
just wait until my wideband comes out. but mine wont be ready for about 4-5 months......it will be just as good as innovative, but cheaper 
This should probably be in the BB or General forum rather than posting it in both 1g and 2g forums.
I already have an LM-1 and two LC-1's. Plus an XD-1.
But who couldn't use another. I do have a couple of non-board related project vehicles which could use a wideband. :tup:
I already have an LM-1 and two LC-1's. Plus an XD-1.
But who couldn't use another.
I do have a couple of non-board related project vehicles which could use a wideband. :tup:200 bux is gonna be outta my budget probly till spring. till then I'll lightly boost w/ care I guess. I do have a buddy w/ a portable wideband who says he'll help me get a fair tune on it after I get the fpr setup & install it.
Also, just the wideband isnt going to help you unless you have a way to read what it's logging.
So either you'll need a laptop to tell you what the datalogs were, or get the gauge in conjunction with the wideband. Both woul dbe your best option, buuut....
I'm not interested personally, as the local performance shop here can get me a new wideband for whatever it will come down to here, and I dont have to deal with shipping.
I will add though that you should consider the db gauge option seriously. The gauges are nice units, and seem to be of top-notch quality.And that way you dont need a datalog (Should still have it though) to tell you what AFR's you were running when and where in the RPM band.
So either you'll need a laptop to tell you what the datalogs were, or get the gauge in conjunction with the wideband. Both woul dbe your best option, buuut....
I'm not interested personally, as the local performance shop here can get me a new wideband for whatever it will come down to here, and I dont have to deal with shipping.
I will add though that you should consider the db gauge option seriously. The gauges are nice units, and seem to be of top-notch quality.And that way you dont need a datalog (Should still have it though) to tell you what AFR's you were running when and where in the RPM band.
Is it true that you can use a narrowband gauge in place of a wideband gauge? The ones with a sweeping motion of colored lights. I have a laptop specifically for the car, so that's not a problem. (Picked it up for Megasquirt, which I still haven't installed yet)
I installed a T3 a couple of months back and before I turn up the boost, I would like to get a wideband, so yeah I would be interested. I surely don't have $200 to spare for a couple of months though.
I installed a T3 a couple of months back and before I turn up the boost, I would like to get a wideband, so yeah I would be interested. I surely don't have $200 to spare for a couple of months though.
Autometer narrowband gauges are linear, so you could use it with a 0-1V linear output from the LC-1.Is it true that you can use a narrowband gauge in place of a wideband gauge? The ones with a sweeping motion of colored lights. I have a laptop specifically for the car, so that's not a problem. (Picked it up for Megasquirt, which I still haven't installed yet)
However, since you will have no digital number, you'll need to mark the gauge so you know what each dot stands for. I'd suggest marking based on 1 AFR increments. If you have a certain range that matters most to you, such as 12-16 AFR, you can set that up with a linear 0-1V range for more accuracy.
Right on. Good info :tup: I would probably go with the real thing I guess.
Yeah, I'm lazy and just want to look at a number and see the AFR:lol:
But thats a neat idea for making goo duse out of a narrowband gauge. I'll have to keep that in my mind for a different project...:tup:
But thats a neat idea for making goo duse out of a narrowband gauge. I'll have to keep that in my mind for a different project...:tup:
When I first had my LM-1 about 5 years ago, I set it up with the Autometer NB. It's okay, but definitely not easy to see exactly what you're at with a glance while accelerating.
I'm out as I already have an LC-1 that I purchased from the fine men at diyautotune a few years back. Also I have a few jaw units on the way to try out too, that should be interesting.
Fred.
Fred.
I bought my LM-1 back before the black box days and before DIY existed. However, I did buy both my LC-1's from them. Best customer service evAr. :tup:
got an lc-1 from diy a while back already. zach has it though
Definately interested in the LC-1 with the guage combo!!!
The hard work has already been done:Fastest95PGT said:Autometer narrowband gauges are linear, so you could use it with a 0-1V linear output from the LC-1.
However, since you will have no digital number, you'll need to mark the gauge so you know what each dot stands for. I'd suggest marking based on 1 AFR increments. If you have a certain range that matters most to you, such as 12-16 AFR, you can set that up with a linear 0-1V range for more accuracy.
http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-mx6-forced-induction/165353-ghettodyne-narrow-band-f-ratio.html
shut down due to possible Bulk Buy. This needs to go through the Mods next. Any volunteers?
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