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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok, i wanna re-do my home made CAI. heres the ideas and questions. this should prove to be the most efficient one yet!!!

--take the stock accordion T/B elbow and cut it about 1/2"-3/4" after (goin FROM t/b) the last ripple. making it more like a 45degree angle instead of 90.
--use a 12" extension pipe(straight) to locate the filter where my battery USED to be. i moved it to the trunk a while ago when i got the 1400cca MONSTER using 0ga.
--the air in that corner is as far away from the engine as it gets, therefore cold. AND as an added bonus, there's a nice size space leading down to where the fog light would be= COOLER air.
--only ONE SMALL BEND TOO=LESS RESISTANCE(ref N1 exhausts)

-------now for the question. A...or B...-----------------
A--use a 3 1/2" dia. piece of straight pipe (metal or thin pvc) between the elbow and the sensor. putting the filter directly on the end of the sensor.
B--put the sensor on the modded elbow and a 3" piece going to the corner with the filter on the end.

i think the 3 1/2" dia. would be too large. HOWEVER it gets reduced by the elbow to increase velocity. and the air should build nice momentum within such a large diameter, then forcing itself into the now 65mm t/b and ported manifold. those w/ stock t/b and manif should probably do the 3" DEFINITELY.
also i think the sound would be different too. the 3" option may be louder + deeper. ever realize the sound increase a civic gets off an AEM CAI ALONE? i thought this kids del slow had real work done and it turned out to just be a LONG 3" pipe w/ a filter on the end.

i could ramble more, but i'll wait for feedback

THANX ALL FOR REPLYING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Nick
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i say put the MAF by the TB so your IAT can get a more accurate reading. putting it by the filter will

a) give the engine slightly warmer air than it thinks its getting and...

b) force you to lengthen your wires to your MAF/IAT.
 

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If you are just going to put the filter on the end of the pipe in that battery location you might also want to try walling off that section of the engine compartment fromt eh rest to give the filter some what of a chamber. It'll give you a small increase in torque and keep mostly the cooler air from below the battery location coming in.
 

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You're thinking in the right direction but think about this..... where is the cool part of a sauna room? You'll be dammed hot no matter where you sit in a sauna room. Think of the engine bay in those terms. Once the hood is closed, well it's just plain hot in all areas of the bay.

If interested you may want to consider this option. Disconnect the part connected to the ingoing part of the airbox. Connect flexable piping leading from your airdam( in front of the radiator) and run this to the ingoing opening of the airbox. Then pop in a high quality filter(K&N). This set up will allow cold air enter the airbox, go through the filter and enter the throttle body at the speed you are driving. A ram air set up. If you're going 50mph, then the air is traveling into the throttle body close to this speed and it's cold outside air. You may want to put a screen on the end of the piping so nothing gets sucked into the airbox. Everything else stays stock. All you'll need is the piping, filter and a small screen.

By having an aftermarket cone filter in the engine bay defaets the purpose of what you're trying to acheive. It will only suck in hot air thus reducing hp. It will sound louder but that's it. It will hurt performance. A true cold air setup needs a filter protected from the engine bay and needs only air coming from outside the engine bay.
I'm sure there are plenty of other home made setups and ideas out there. Lets list them?

Let us know what you decide to go with.
Wally
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ACTUALLY I ALREADY HAVE A SIMILAR SETUP.
i currently have the stock accordion elbow with a reactiv filter on it (the one with the heatshield and the 4" opening on the end) and a 4" flex hose going to the same location. the tube is quite cool in that location. there is a nice size vent leading down to where the factory fog would be. this lets in a nice amount of cool air from the front of the car. i wanna put the filter itself there so i'm not just limited to a 4" area to suck from, but an open area. i will also be using sheet aluminum to make a heat barrier to divert heat away.

another advantage is i will have a path that is almost straight. just one slight 45deg or so bend. right now i have TWO 90 or so bends. the straight has to be better. just ref N1 exhausts. i'm also leaning towords ABS piping for it's non-heat conductiveness.

thanx for the replies, keep comin with the feedback so i can get this goin.


thanx
L8R
Nick
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wal92tt said:

Disconnect the part connected to the ingoing part of the airbox. Connect flexable piping leading from your airdam( in front of the radiator) and run this to the ingoing opening of the airbox. Then pop in a high quality filter(K&N). This set up will allow cold air enter the airbox, go through the filter and enter the throttle body at the speed you are driving. A ram air set up. If you're going 50mph, then the air is traveling into the throttle body close to this speed and it's cold outside air.

huh??? care to elaborate on this? especially that last part about the air entering the throttle body at 50 MPH. can you put that in physics for us? and are k&n filters really that efficient??? i doubt it
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
huh??? care to elaborate on this? especially that last part about the air entering the throttle body at 50 MPH. can you put that in physics for us? and are k&n filters really that efficient??? i doubt it [/B][/QUOTE]

i know what he means. my boy did that on his 93. minimal improvement. there's a hose going from the stock air box to behind the bumper. yeah its cool air...but only a 2" inlet of air. the hose connects to the same place that the scoop thing that went above the radiator connected. and no, drop in k&n filters aren't that efficient.

i'm talking about a 3" ABS pipe going to the corner behind the headlight where the batt used to be with the filter directly on the end of it. utilizing about half the stock t/b elbow, followed by the sensor, then the 3" pipe, then a dual cone fiter. and a heat shield wall to block the rest of the heat from the engine bay. plus there's a vent leading from that corner directly to where the oem fog light would be to let in cold air as you drive.

L8R
Nick
BLUMX6

[Edited by BLUMX6 on 02-16-2001 at 03:20 AM]
 
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I haven't done any measurements, but I think that it may be possible to run the intake under the winshield cowling on the driver side, something like the fresh air inlet for the vents. Aerodynamicly, at that cowl is one of the points on our cars with the highest air pressure. Just a thought.
 

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huh??? care to elaborate on this? especially that last part about the air entering the throttle body at 50 MPH. can you put that in physics for us? and are k&n filters really that efficient??? i doubt it----------------------



I wasn't being exact with the airspeed entering the T/B @55mph. What I was trying to point out and I'm sure everyone picked up on was that by doing,as my above post listed, this setup would by less restrictive than the stock setup. :)>


Wouldn't there be more forced air pressure by having the air inlet in front of the radiator rather than at the cowl/ fresh air inlets below the windsheild?
 

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wal92tt said:


I wasn't being exact with the airspeed entering the T/B @55mph.
boy i hope not... i was thinking more like 5-10 MPH... maybe a little more... depending on your engine setup and TB bore.

but yes i agree that it would be less restrictive than stock
 

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hey blumx6 i have a93 mx6 6 aut tranny and i really wanted a cold air intake down to the bottom but any who ownes a auto knows that the tranny is too big but me and my father who is a mechanic did it. That plastic suare box when u opn the hood on the right it comes out ofthe radiator we took that off and he made something else to work, then we cut the metal in front of the battery didnt want to put it in the trunk cause it can blow u its has no air thats why its under the hood, after we cutth metal we put a 2inch pipe coming from the MAS sensor down to the bottom behind the driver side fog liht with a k N Filter at the bottom, before i just had the filter where i was getting hot and cold air where now i just get cold but does it matter that my piping is ony 2inch i mean its such a good idead and i think that i i know that iam the only one with it on a v6 auto
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
i know exactly what u mean.
and YES!!! 2" is WAY too small. u need 3". 2" wont give u the volume of air you'll need. plus your idea has alot of bends. did u use a platic flex hose or somethin? if so, that crinkles and folds and bends like no tomorrow. all of those elements disturb airflow. refer back to exaust technology, fewer bends and MANDREL bends (consistent diameter) are best. so fewer bends in an intake pipe must be equally effective.

as far as the battery, i switched to a sealed battery. it's a 1400cca monster that wouldn't fit under the hood anyway. and there isn't any risk of having it in the trunk. hell, people put theirs in complete boxes. i would seriosly sonsider this idea. ESPECIALLY with an ATX. you dont really have any other options for cold air without major mods. my boy has a 93 ATX and we're relocating his battery this weekend so he can do this. then we're cutting the 3" ABS pipe and makin mine :D

L8R
Nick
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BLUMX6 said:


as far as the battery, i switched to a sealed battery. it's a 1400cca monster that wouldn't fit under the hood anyway.
damn you have a group 31 battery??? they use those in semis and moving vans, etc. we used to use those for hydraulic setupshow much did you pay for that?...or...DID you pay...j/k
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
not much. it's an SVR and i got it thru a distributor i work with. it's actually 900cca/2700 max amps. oops. i was gonna get the 1100cca one. dont know where the 1400 came from. sorry. still HUGE tho. i think it was like $120. the 1100cca is like $150. he said it was overkill. not like 900cca is normal. he pleasantly put it "you could STILL power a small community of the sum bitch". he said it best. i was using a Kicker XS100 @ 1ohm MONO, a ZX460 and a ZR240. my lights never even finched, even BEFORE the caps (3-1 farad monitor caps). thing weighs 58lbs too.

L8Rs
Nick
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i used pvc piping i dont want to relocate my battery so far i have had no probelms. ( thank god knock on wood) i think ima just going to leave it because its still better than just teh filter
 
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