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Compiled and written by blackbeauty. Some of the resources were gathered from various members of mx6.com.
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Anyone that wants to put J-Spec headlights in an American car should be forewarned that it requires cutting the radiator support (not too significant) and fabricating of some custom mounts. Only one of the J-Spec mounts lines up to a mounting point on the car.

WHERE to get them:
www.corksport.com, www.adelaidejap.com.au, http://www.koito.co.jp/english/f_index.html Also check the Bulk Buy and For Sale forum every now and then.



Jspec headlight bulb #'s: H3C-lowbeam, H1-highbeam, 194-corner light.



Where to get H3C bulbs:

http://www.lightingresearch.com/clear_halogen.htm

http://www.automotive-lighting.com/productcart/pc/mainIndex.asp

http://www.hyperlights.com/prod01.htm

http://www.ssinostar.com/auto_lamp3.htm

www.ebay.com

http://www.forperformance.com/koitoprice.html

http://www.imotorgear.com/dept.asp?source=&dept_id=15090106

http://www.xtomic.net/orderonline.html

http://www.classicgarage.com/classicgarage/h3c85wclearh.html


For the H1 and 194 bulbs, you can get them local at any auto parts stores.


Quick Disconnects



Quick-disconnects (available at most auto parts or electronics stores), are a wonderful help to the installation process. Pre-wire the lights by adding extension wire and crimping on the male or female ends of the quick-disconnects in the house.

Each lead received an end with exception to the grounds of the interior light and the projector light, which were wired together and crimped to a single end.

After cutting the hole in the radiator support, it was a matter of cutting off the existing headlight plugs, crimping on the other ends to the existing wiring and connecting them. Being a 3-wire harness, each of the existing two "hot" wires went to a corresponding "hot," and the existing "ground" wire went to the two "grounds" wired to the single plug.

The beauty of the quick disconnects is that if you accidentally wire up the lights the wrong way, you can disconnect and switch them in the matter of seconds.





Corner Lights



Corner Light Harness

Cut the old harness and expose three wires. One is the Ground and the other two are Turn Signal and Parking Lights.



For the corner lights the quick disconnects came in handy also. The female ends connect to the tabs of the relay perfectly.

One hot is for the Turn Signal, the second is for the solid Park Lights, and the third was obviously the ground. It was a matter of connecting these wires to the relays so that each function was correct. Once I got everything working, I added in the side markers, crimped on the ends, and connected them to the wire.

In the diagram the ground (black) wire is not used and should be tied off and taped to prevent a short.

The only wires used are the green and the orange. The green goes to one lead on the Turn Signal, and the orange goes to the Parking Light. The Turn Signals work fine, as do the Park Lights wired up this way.

The only problem arises when the Park Lights are on and you activate the Turn Signal. They still work, but the flash is out of sync with the rear turn signals.



Asynchronous Turn Signal Explanation

There’s a simple answer to the asynchronous flashing of the front and rear turn signal when the parking light is on... sort of... simple, but very hard to explain anyway...



Basically, the way you wired the turn signal now is bypassing the ground and wiring to the two hot leads of the stock harness to the Turn/Park Light of the JDM.



When everything is off, the polarity of the Parking Light and Turn Signal is negative. So when you turn on your Parking Light the polarity of the Parking Light is positive while the Turn Signal lead is still negative. Positive and negative together make a complete circuit.



Now with the same scenario (Parking Light on (+) and Turn Signal off (-)) you turn on your Turn Signal. When the Turning Lead from the stock harness is on (positive) you have two positives to your Turn/Park Light, two positives is not a complete circuit, so the light is off. The important thing to take notice of here is that the light is OFF while the positive pulse of turning lead is ON... which is opposite of normal, which is why it blinks out of sync!



Turn Signals - Single vs. Dual Filament Bulbs

We know that 1156 bulbs are dual filament, and the 168/194 bulbs are single filament. The green wire (Turn Signal) triggers one filament in the bulb while the orange wire (Park Lights) trigger the other filament, hence the Turn Signals brightening the bulb when it flashes, and the Park Light being the lower constant light. Both use the black ground wire to complete the circuit. Is there a way to wire the 168/194 bulb up so that it uses the black ground wire to complete the circuit for the Front Turn Signals, thus allowing them to flash synchronous to the Rear Turn Signals, while also allowing the Park Lights to be engaged. In all actuality, it's not probable due to the single filament bulbs, but I figured I'd ask anyway.





Reply to "Turn Signals - Single vs. Dual Filament Bulbs

Not possible with a single filament bulb! Cause the reason dual filaments flash is the turning filament is brighter, singles only have one filament, so instead of getting brighter, they turn off and on. If you really want I can figure out a way to do it with relays, also, didn't someone say the A-spec factory socket fit into the JDM projector?

Did I read that somewhere or am I going crazy? Or... Someone can send me his or hers JDM's and I can do all the troubleshooting you want! Ha, ha.



Corner Marker / Turn Signal

Your stock corner harness has 3 wires, your new corner light on your J-Spec has 2 wires, instead of wiring it up as Ground/Park or ground/blinker wire it up as park/blinker, yes I said Park/Turn Signal, just do it, it'll work, trust me, do it, darn I said do it! Yea, ok it sounds funny but it works, and it doesn't seem logical, but anyway, keep us posted.





Additional, "Corner Marker / Turn Signal"

The way the original bulb (1157 double filament) works is that for parking light is the lower powered light while the flasher is a higher-powered light blinking brighter. By using this wiring setup, when you use your parking lights the single filament bulb lights up, using the electrical current from the wired marked H1 (See Diagram). And when you hit the Turn Signal, the current from wire H2 shorts the electrical current from H1, effectively canceling each other, and blinks off.

Effectively producing: On - Off – On

Instead of: low light - bright light - low light.

It also kind of reverses the flash sequence, so you will notice the "blinking" off-sequence from the rear turn signals.



Ok conventionally, it's a Ground and a Power Wire, either Ground/Park Light or Ground/Turn Signal so that the light is on whenever the power wire is hot. With the two power wires (Park/Turn), during the day (no park or headlights on), it'll be "no power"/"no power" -- the light will be off. When the blinker is activated, there will be power in this system every time the blinker wire is hot, the other wire in the system, the parking light wire, will actually act as ground. So the Lights light as a regular blinker. At night, (with Park or Head Lights), the blink light will act as ground and the park light will provide power all the time -- the light will be on all the time -- however, when the blinker is activated, u will have two power wires in the system with no ground, this will cause the light to turn off every time the blinker wire is hot because u have "power"/"power" -- no ground.



Mounting:

For some more reinforcement, use a small piece of flat steel with two 1/4" holes drilled about 1 3/8" apart to go from the air conditioner bracket in front of the radiator, to the top hole on the J-Spec light bracket as well as the top bracket bolted (use one of your A-spec bolts) to the radiator support. Could be necessary to trim the back of the inner bumper (black plastic) off at an angle to get the light to sit down all the way (the metal clips on the J-Spec housing rubbed against it) or it stuck up to high and couldn’t close the hood.

Here is a video that Ruby (Ruubstr94Ls) made of the jspec headlights after installation.

Jspec Headlight Install

894
 

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Wiring Diagram on the A-Spec Harnesses:

We took a voltmeter to the car since we couldn't find an explicit schematic in any forums. That being said, here is the headlight wiring for a 1995 Mazda MX6 (A-Spec)



Primary (low and high beams) Harness

PG = Primary Ground, PH1 = Primary Hot #1, PH2 = Primary Hot #2

PG - Black w/ stripe - Ground

PH1 - Red w/ Black stripe - Low Beam

PH2 - Red w/ White stripe - High Beam



Secondary (side - Parking Light and Turn Signal) Harness

SG = Secondary Ground, SH1 = Secondary Hot #1, SH2 = Secondary Hot #2

SG - Black - Ground

SH1 - Orange - Parking

SH2 - Green w/ White stripe - Turn Signal



Here’s The Culmination of Many People:


Outside Light Contacts (Turn Signal)

Ground -> SG

Hot -> SH2



Middle Light Contacts (Low Beam)

Ground -> PG

Hot -> PH1



Inside Light Contacts (High Beam)

Ground -> PG

Hot -> PH2



Side Marker (Optional)

Ground -> SH1

Hot -> SH2

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Aiming - J-Spec

You can't change the way the vertical cutoff favors the passenger side (R.H.D. in Japan) but the screws on the back allow you to adjust up down left and right independently for the high and low beam on each housing.

Clockwise was up and left (depending on which screw you were using)

Counter-Clockwise would be down or right.


Cutting Radiator Support:


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