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ok my car will idle at 1,000 rpms normally, but this morning it would idle around 1,000 rpms and then jump up to 2k rpms and then drop back down to 1,000 rpms and then jump right back up and it keeps doing this i dont think its the pcv valve becuase it was just replaced i was thinking maybe the tps???? anyone else have any other ideas??? thanxs nik
 

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I am having a similar problem, up to 4500/5000 it can only keep within 3 rpm lines, very rough, but I replaced my TPS, adjusted it, and let it warm up, still having problme,s drive it and it is really rough barely makes it up to speed.
 

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Sounds like the IAC. Probably bad. Either that or you haven't bled the coolant system properly and there are bubble in the coolant. Start with those. The IAC is only sold with the entire throttle body so I would leave that one until the end. You could always go to a junkyard and possibly get one there. Or look on the Buy/Sell section. I think some guy called huges somthing sells out parts.
 

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A month man.. I miss my car more than I ever thought I could... lol

I am at a loss. I have no more cash for about another month.

So I wont have an update soon. I hope not the TP....
argh.... well any other ideas keep them coming... thanks guys
 

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Nakano_Kid said:
Sounds like the IAC. Probably bad. Either that or you haven't bled the coolant system properly and there are bubble in the coolant. Start with those.
How would THAT affect idle? Coolant bubble?
 

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I can't figure this out.

TPS djustment is perfect, it IDLE's perfect.
Distributor: Coil, Rotor, and Cap are fine.
Spark plugs are fine.
Plug wires are fine.
Coolant is fine.
Ignition Timing is fine.
Belts are both fine.
Fuel Filter is fine.
Fuel Injectors are fine.
TB is clean and fine.
Hoses are all good and sealed.
Trying to think of what else has been checked out or replaced.

Not pulling any CEL codes since the TPS sensor was replaced, old one still pulls codes, positive the old one is bad.


I just cant figure it out.
All the way up to 4000/4500 it is ROUGH.
All the way back down under 4000 it is rough, but then settles out at 650rpms.

Driving is hesitant and if I cruise at one speed rough and the RPM's just fluxuate between 3 RPM lines. Lower RPMs the worse it seems...

I am at my wits end on this one.... argh Where are all the brainiacs like Mike... No one has really had anything helpful to say on this. I have read the posts for HOURS PAGES of posts. I either see somone fix it with one of the things I have checked or replaced, or 40-60 posts later I see it end but no word on wether or not it was ever fixed. Maybe I am not looking at the right posts. I really need help on this one. I know I could take it to a shop, but I am tapped out, I can't afford it. Need to get this car running.
 

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The only other thing I can possibly think of is that your coolant temp sensor is shot and because of this it causes your car to run rich. Either that or one of your O2 sensors.
 

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Brand new o2 sensors.

*sigh*

Been working on this all day long, even missed Turkey working on it.... lol

Have to check int othe collant temp sensor.

What does run rich mean?

It is running, but I don't know what it would be called, rich, or ****TY.
 

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When the computer can't tell what's going on with the temperature or fuel delivery system (usually because a sensor is shot) it automatically runs rich to prevent from overheating. A safety precaution programmed in the ecu.
 

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I see, would it also turn on my fan and stuff too?

It hasn't, just wondering. I haven't had any problems with the temperature. But that doesn't mean that the sensor isn't shot.

Is there a way to test it? Should it pull a code?
 

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Well, this morning my car wont start, it turns but it just doesn't get enough to go.

I think I need to have another look at the Distributor.
 

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Well I got it to start. But it still runs like ****.

Battery only outputting 10.
Had battery checked out and the wiring it is all good for sure.

I don't know... I might just have to sell it for what I can get. =(

It is pulling a code for VAF... No way I can afford that. I call the junkyards every month... In two years I have never been able to find a 6 here in SLC Utah.
 

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yo man im gonna help you out since i hate when people dont bother with me when my car is out of commission.

CHeck ebay its a must type in mx6 for the most results and find a vaf i see em on there all the time within the last 3 months next try the forsale forum.

If not keep in touch with me and ill look around here for you and you could send me a money order ill pick it up and ship it to you how do you like the sound of that pal

Dont worry keep cool and good news shall come

Jimmy
 

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I had a very similar problem that turned out to be multiple problems. I pulled the left o2 sensor code and replaced it and also pulled the VAF code. All i did was disconnect all the senors from the intake track and clean them, plug them in and reset the ecu.
Also when the car is running does it smell funny? inspect the engine bay while its running to see if anything is leaking, like fuel from the sensor above the alternator.
 

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Thanks guys, I really appriciate the help.

Well, I found out my battery is toast. For some reason it was testing fine, and is fairly new... But I guess it has some kind of short in it. It keeps losing charge overnight and then can't start the engine. But jump it and it starts fine. Though it doesn't run fine... *sigh*

Going to repalce the battery and hopefully that will solve it. I have been told that if the battery isn't functioning properly it can suck more power out of the alternator than normal and send bad signals to the ECU. I don't know... But I am going to start with that. Hopefully it wont come to the VAF but I appriciate it Bling and Wolf. I will let you guys know what happens.

-Dave
 

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Well, I got a new battery. I couldn't find anyone to let me try thiers.

It made a difference, but like... It is still really ****ed up. Same problem though with the revs. =( Runs like total ****, just runs now... before I had to start with jumpers.
 

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Well, I got a new battery. I couldn't find anyone to let me try thiers.

It made a difference, but like... It is still really ****ed up. Same problem though with the revs. =( Runs like total ****, just runs now... before I had to start with jumpers.

Oh, and it pulls no codes now.... which is good and bad because now it runs like ****, but I have no leads as to why. I got a loan from a friend though... So I am going to have it tested either tomorrow or Wedensday. I will let you know what I find out.
 

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I got new plugs, plug wires, a new cap and rotor.

Got it all changed and I swear to god the car runs worse. The wires are matched perfect and the rotor is on right. Same way as before, and it had been running years that way before no problems.

It definately was worn out compared to the new cap, but still no difference.

Really wierd thing too is my wheel, it doesn't lock anymore... It used to lock... but now it doesnt. ????? no clue.... and when I was running it tonight it would make a click, a little actuator thing on the passenger side near the firewall side of the engine, and when it would click the headlights (but not insturments or dash) lights would flicker, and it would pull a code when it clicked, just a flickering code, then gone, and ever since the new battery, I pull no codes at all.

anyone have any ideas?

*sighs*
 

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I'm having the same problem, and it really pisses me off. When I get my mechanic to do a tune-up, I'll have him read this stuff and asses the situation. He's a genius. So far it seems like I should get a new battery and o2 sensors, if I'm correct. If the problem persists, I'm going to take a shotgun to the engine. When I get out of my car and leave it running, not only does it pur from the idle/o2 problem (or whatever it is) but it also makes a knocking noise, from under the hood. Arghh... my car is lucky I love it.
 

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well, well, well

guess what my car was doing just this very morning.... jumping in idle from 1000 to 2000 after it had warmed up for 5 minutes. We had fixed this problem before, so i had thought, when we cleaned out the throttle body with carbeurator cleaner about 3 months ago. I would love to see if I had any engine codes but when we put headers on the car we would get a check engine light every time we hit the brakes, so we removed the light...... I remember it always showed a VRIS solenoid code and and EGR code (maybe 16 and 42........ this was almost a year ago, I don't even know if those are even code possibilities). The guy that pulled it out said he always had those codes on his eclipse (2nd gen w/turbo) and said that is what he had to do after much investigastion.

do you guys think I should just take it to Mazda and have them do a diagnostics check........ or do you think they will try to give me a list of problems that could be it and expect me to fix all such.... (EGR etc.) before they can assess mine or offer to "fix" all such problems for an outrageous amount of money?

any and all help is appreciated

Brian Van Way
viennasound
304-481-4142
 
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