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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
And I have to say, it was a pain in the ass. A couple of the bolts were a bit awkward to get at (Rear - Top - Passenger side the most difficult), but I finished it. It was much easier putting the headers on than taking the old manifolds off, although fitting the front header was a bit difficult with the fan in the way.

What sucks though, is my EGR pipe was too long and it didn't screw in to the holes right. It was getting dark fast, so i just said screw it. I'll JB Weld a quarter to the holes in the morning.

All in all, I hope when I finish tomorrow I can feel a difference :-x Difficult job, and time consuming
 

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Did you have to remove the intake manifold or anything annoying like that to do the headers closest to the driver?

I'm thinking about one day doing it, but am not sure how much of a bitch it is to do whilst the engine is in the car.

Let us know if it feels more powerful.
 

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yeah at first you can hear the intake sucking a lot of air. you should have torched the egr tube, it flexes really easily with a torch.

but yeah, take some pics, its always nice to see a fresh set of headers installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
No, I didn’t take the intake manifold off. It’s actually pretty easy getting the bolts off without taking the manifold off. Just reach back there and feel for them. The only difficult one was the one I mentioned, the rear – top – passenger bolt. I had to bend some metal tube that was running by it to get enough clearance to get to it with a socket wrench.

I cut the ends off the old EGR tube, so I could get the screws off, and JB Welded some quarters to the holes so I can still put one in at a later time if I want to.

Unfortunately, I have an exhaust leak somewhere and I can’t find out where. I double checked the Y-Pipe and it doesn’t seem to be coming from there. And I’m pretty sure it’s not coming from the front header at all. I’m dreading having to take the Y-Pipe off because it took all my strength to line it up the first time, it didn’t match up with the holes on the headers very well.

I’m disappointed…I can feel a small difference, but when I step on it you can hear a hissing noise. And my exhaust is no where near as loud as it was before. I need to get under the car tomorrow morning and check again.

And a question…one of the manifold-to-block gaskets broke when I was installing the rear header, so I re-used one of the old ones…is that bad? I used red RTV sealant.
 

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Even though the headers are bolt ons they dont quite line up EXACTLY like the stock ones. Pinhole of air getting through the old gaskets arent good. You should know this man!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I think I got it taken care of :) the Y-Pipe was too long, and when i bolted my test pipe up it would push the mid-pipe back and the test pipe would be all crooked, causing it not to seal right at the flanges, thus causing a leak. My exhaust is still a lot more silent than it was, but it's a good thing as I would have gotten pulled over with it being as loud as it was.

Although I can hear some kind of metallic rattling that I suspect is coming from my test pipe. I'm going to gut my cat (it's almost brand new too) and see how that goes.
 

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Cool hope it works out for you. Ill be doing the same pretty soon so im just reading up :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Few tips:

-A breaker bar isn't required (atleast it wasn't for me) but it does help a little.

-Flex Joint Socket was worthless. I didn't even need to use it, and when I tried to use it, it just made it harder for me to break the screws loose.

-No need to remove the IM. It's a bit tight, but you can just feel for the top bolts and maneuver a socket wrench back there. Although the top driver side screw on the rear manifold is easier to get at from the bottom

-Make sure you use red RTV sealant EVERYWHERE

-Front header difficult to position; I had to remove the metal shield on the fan and bend one of the screws to get it to fit.

- Make sure you remove the rubber hangers from the car before you bolt up the y-pipe. It's not a big deal, but it's easier to do when you're removing the old y-pipe anyway.

-Don't throw your floor slider (i don't remember what it's called...little thing you lay on that has wheels) because you're pissed off and frustrated and almost make it through your living room window

- You may have to get about a half inch of your mid-pipe cut off and a new flange welded on because the new y-pipe is longer than the stock one.
 

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-Don't throw your floor slider (i don't remember what it's called...little thing you lay on that has wheels) because you're pissed off and frustrated and almost make it through your living room window

- You may have to get about a half inch of your mid-pipe cut off and a new flange welded on because the new y-pipe is longer than the stock one.

Haha definitely good advice. I may have found out about my pipe being longer too late, thus throwing the floor slider through my livin room window. Good shit! Lol :tup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I removed everything today, so I can re-do it tomorrow. I cut off the little EGR tube from the rear header, because I didn't like how air would still go down there but get re-circulated back in to the header. JB Welded it.

It was a hell of a lot easier this time around, now that I knew what to do. Got the headers and y-pipe removed in less than an hour and a half. Had to go to work, so I didn't even bother trying to put anything back on.

Ordered new fel-pro exhaust manifold gaskets, this time I'm gonna do it right!!! The only thing that sucks is that i noticed the flange at the end of the y-pipe is crooked. So the test pipe is angled, and i'm sure it won't bolt up to the mid-pipe right. Might have to go BACK to the exhaust shop and have them cut that flange off and weld on another one, AGAIN. Damn it. Another $40 down the drain...

Total spent on headers + full exhaust

$105 for Headers
$25 for Test Pipe
$160 for GReddy EVO2 Catback
$50 for cutting the midpipe back because the y-pipe was too long
$40 for new exhaust manifold gaskets
$60 for misc. tools, jb weld, red rtv sealant

That's like $450+ :-( Add another $40-$50 to get the y-pipe flange straightened. $500 bucks...ahhhhh
 

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Haha so much for bolt ons eh? :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Will a bad/non-functioning EGR cause a clicking noise on acceleration?

I ask because, when I installed my headers, the EGR pipe that came with them wouldn't fit right and wouldn't screw in to both holes. So, I said ***** it. I didn't know that you had to torch the tube to bend it.

I cut off the little side-pipe coming off the rear header for the EGR, and JB Welded it shut. I also JB Welded a quarter to close the hole on the intake side.

Now under acceleration, I get a clicking noise. I'm thinking about just removing the EGR all together, since it's not being used anyway. But I think I need a block-off plate? I'm not sure.

Also, since installing my headers I'm getting a code 17. I just replaced both O2's within the last 6 months. And my gas mileage is still just as good as before, could the EGR be the reason I'm getting a code 17 somehow??
 

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One of my VRIS solenoids was not connected correctly and caused a clicking on acceleration. So I guess I'm saying maybe the EGR not being connected properly could cause that noise, from the solenoid.

What kind of headers did you get? Ebay style? I was thinking about getting some, but if the difference is small and it ended up costing alot more money than you thought it would, i dont know. Was it worth it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yeah I just got eBay style. It's worth it IMO, I don't think most people will be spending as much on it as I did.
 

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A lot of people get O2 codes after doing exhaust work because the rtv sealant they use isn't O2 sensor safe. I hope that didn't happen to you.
 

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you mentioned that it took a lot of muscle to get the Y-pipe to fit over the headers, this will get a lot easier in time as the headers heat up and have a chance to settle into their place, i've had mine on for a little over 2 years and now taking the y-pipe on and off is a breeze, damn near perfect fit.
 

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is red rtv sealant better or something
or is the copper stuff better because im almost done my swap and used the copper rtv sealant
and around the egr should i have used a gasket sealant too? i just used some high heat thread sealant? good enough i thought
and for the egr pipe problem i unsrewed my egr and attached the pipe then reinstalled it onto the motor
 

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i had a check engine light since i got my headers installed. Doesn't effect driving, also my vris 2 stopped working so i just tied it down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Sorry to bump a few week old thread but it's better than making a new one!

A lot of people get O2 codes after doing exhaust work because the rtv sealant they use isn't O2 sensor safe. I hope that didn't happen to you.
That's exactly what it was. Replaced the O2's and everything was gravy.

eon_blu said:
you mentioned that it took a lot of muscle to get the Y-pipe to fit over the headers, this will get a lot easier in time as the headers heat up and have a chance to settle into their place, i've had mine on for a little over 2 years and now taking the y-pipe on and off is a breeze, damn near perfect fit.
Yeah I noticed when I re-installed my headers to fix my exhaust leak, even after just a week, it was much easier to get it to fit right.

eon_blu said:
s red rtv sealant better or something
or is the copper stuff better because im almost done my swap and used the copper rtv sealant
and around the egr should i have used a gasket sealant too? i just used some high heat thread sealant? good enough i thought
and for the egr pipe problem i unsrewed my egr and attached the pipe then reinstalled it onto the motor
Good that you found out to do something like that early! I just got pissed and cut off the egr pipe coming off of the header and had the exhaust shop weld it shut. That's what the clicking noise was! The exhaust blew the JB Weld out of the hole lol. I used red RTV because it's a hi-temp sealant. I've never used copper sealant for anything, but I imagine it wouldn't cause your O2's to fail like the red RTV did for me (they have sensor-safe sealant, but I didn't even think about that when I bought it)

eon_blu said:
i had a check engine light since i got my headers installed. Doesn't effect driving, also my vris 2 stopped working so i just tied it down.
I had CEL's for codes 17, 23, and 46. I replaced my O2's, reset the ECU, checked for codes, none. Did the paper test just now, and no paper left. Yay!

Edit: And I should mention, I'm surprised I don't have any EGR codes. And my fuel economy hasn't taken a noticable hit.
 
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