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Thats true, the most annoying part is the dash harness....

But when I did mine on the GC, I decided to wire the power windows so they work without the key in the ignition....something that I hate about cars with power windows!

Now youve got it apart you can modify anything that your not happy with.
 

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interesting to see what mounts are needed.. i know im not the only one with this idea.
good to see someone stepped up and got it moving.
 

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This thread is relevant to my interests... Subscribed. :tup:

Swapping entire harnesses is probably much simpler than splicing into the original. Gauges may not work anymore, but at least the ECU connections will be solid.

For those complaining about firewall clearances on the 2g, be happy (if) you have an MX-6 because the PGT has the engine about 1.5" further back in the bay. Sure, that means plenty of clearance at the radiator, but it's a bitch dealing with anything in the back.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I swapped the dash harness. The ECU is solid. The 2G ignition switch went right in to the 1G key lock cylinder, so that plugged right in. The car cranks. Just debating whether I should swap the chassis harness or just find out what wire goes where. I got the hazard switch to function. Having trouble with the headlight switch though in the off position the headlights are on and with I turn the switch on the headlamp go to brights. I'm following the diagrams HMM.
 

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I would try to use as much of the 2G harness as you can, if that means pulling the chassis harness at least you will have nearly a full 2G harness.

It makes things so much easier down the track when you have to work on the car and you can use the factory wiring diagrams from the 2G rather than having to draw up your own.
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
I would try to use as much of the 2G harness as you can, if that means pulling the chassis harness at least you will have nearly a full 2G harness.

It makes things so much easier down the track when you have to work on the car and you can use the factory wiring diagrams from the 2G rather than having to draw up your own.
I was thinking it would be much easier to switch out the chassis harness and just swap pigtails as needed. The hardest part is getting the dash switches to function properly. I got the turns signals and hazards. But the headlights, when the switch is off the lights are on when the switch is off the lights are bright, but the lights never come up.
UPDATE: i forgot that the high beam switch is in the turn signal switch. The headlight switch control the motors and the lights.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
UPDATE: swapped chassis harnesses today. found out that i had keyless entry, so thats cool. just have to get a remote. Tailights work now. Wired up fuel pump and got the engine to start. working on the door harnesses. have driver side door switches working properly. used 1g door harnesses, cut 2nd gen connector and matched colors, easy stuff. just half to extend wires for the power mirror switch. still having trouble with the headlight switch. The hardest part about this swap is find the correct mounts. I'm suprised that this has never been done before.
 

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Probably it wasnt done as some of the people who considered it got put off from all the negative advice.

I guess the reason for that is that too many people with too few skills ask the questions about doing it.

All I can say is well done for flying against public opinion, now all it needs it a turbo :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
Well the mounts. I am using a non-turbo pass. side mount. Going to get a non-turbo rear mount. The front one I am going to have to have a welder fab up. And the driver side mount going to have to make a hyrbid between a 1st and 2ng gen mount.

Thats another thing too. The 89 PGT has TURBO on the side of the car, so if all goes well. Turbo it is.
 

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So do you know the non-turbo rear mount will bolt right up to the KL transmission then?

Also, confirm for me that when you say "non-turbo", you mean 1g. Did mounts change between 1gA and 1gB, if so which one are you referring to.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
NEED HELP. with the headlight switch. the headlights go up the lights turn on. i cant get the parking/tail/markers, to come on or the high beams. if i connect the wire going to the exterior lights to ground then everything turns on. i have been trying to get it work ALL DAY. why won't they work right. wiring diagrams dont help can someone help me please.
 

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might help if you could post up the two pages from both WSMs and what wires youve connected to what, it'll make it easier for someone reading this thread to help.

not all of us have access to the necessary diagrams with enough ease....I have a few WSMs here but theyre nearly all for Mazdas and Aus delivered RHD ones, so there are subtle differences with what the switches do, plus we never got the 1G probe here.

It sounds like a simple wiring error of some sort, or maybe the switch does not have enough contacts to do what it needs to do on a 2G harness, maybe you'll need to get creative adding some relays etc....
 

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So do you know the non-turbo rear mount will bolt right up to the KL transmission then?

Also, confirm for me that when you say "non-turbo", you mean 1g. Did mounts change between 1gA and 1gB, if so which one are you referring to.

Yes the bolt right up to the trans...I got one bolted up and ready to go, just enver had time last year to get this far...now that its warming up I may continue on with the project...won't be changing all the wiring like this, though...2gen engine harness and 1gen everything else...luckily mazda is pretty consistent with wiring and electrical, so I think it should work out...

not sure if the mounts bolt to the trans AND the car, and that's what I'm waiting to hear from here, 1ga and 1gb should work just as well either way...there is a difference, but don't think it would matter...
 
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