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Yeah, i went through this confusion too, but this is how I did it for now and it so far hasn't made anything worse

The vac line from the manifold to the fpr is what I just Tee'd my cruise control into. On the DE, that vac line has a solenoid, but actually doesn't do much. On the ZE it's directly connected without a solenoid. For my intake, I've Tee'd the line coming from the purge solenoid (in the back) to the intake.

Wait, I'm not getting this still. You guys said something about the purge solenoid, but what about the one between the fpr and intake manifold that is shown on the DE diagram, but on the ZE diagram shows no solenoid just a line going from the regulator to the intake? Or is have you mentioned this one and I'm misunderstanding?
 

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Yeah, i went through this confusion too, but this is how I did it for now and it so far hasn't made anything worse

The vac line from the manifold to the fpr is what I just Tee'd my cruise control into. On the DE, that vac line has a solenoid, but actually doesn't do much. On the ZE it's directly connected without a solenoid. For my intake, I've Tee'd the line coming from the purge solenoid (in the back) to the intake.
So is it best to just unplug the solenoid all together or is it ok to leave it?
 

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Mine isn't using a solenoid at all with the T and it's running fine, although the idle is a little finicky, which i'm trying to work out with my IAC or could use a little more fine tuning with my timing. oh yeah, mu cruise control works just fine with it Tee'd into that spot

So is it best to just unplug the solenoid all together or is it ok to leave it?
 

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Mine isn't using a solenoid at all with the T and it's running fine, although the idle is a little finicky, which i'm trying to work out with my IAC or could use a little more fine tuning with my timing. oh yeah, mu cruise control works just fine with it Tee'd into that spot
I'm having trouble with idle also. I used the DE throttle body and T'd into the PCV line on the back of the CAI. The one nipple on the ZE throttle body for the coolant was broke off so I'm going to fix it and put that on after I polish and hour glass that throttle body.
 

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Which importer to go with?

My question is who can I trust?

I want to be able to trust the people that I'm really getting a low mileage engine that is in excellent condition.

Who did you guys go with?

Who has a bad reputation?
 

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Which is easier? Pull the engine alone or engine+transmission?

I'd like this to do in the simplest way possible.
;)

93 LS manual

------------------

Looks like an obvious, "both"...after checking a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Yeah I found it easier to pull the engine and the tranny at the same time.

This will allow you to have more working room when you bolt the tranny to the ZE.
 

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Motor mounts

My old engine is almost ready to come out! Is there any good reason to do anything different with the motor mounts while I have the motor pulled?

I don't fully understand the importance tweaking here...is their an improvement here I ought to make?
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Well

You could get stocks. Which break often.

You could get the inserts for the stocks, less harsh as is more movement and less noise, not that the noise is bad IMO.

Or get solids. Most of us run solids.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Because the ZE had a coil, that means there is an extra plug on the ZE Disty.

Thus our cars arent wired for it.

You can used the ZE Disty if you do the HEI Mod.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
You could get the KL-ZE and VAF which will set you back a nice amount of change.

There are two people here that make chips.

Since they are not sponsers you might want to search some threads on this subject.

They get the job done, removing codes and setting the VRIS to the proper points.
 

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Bad idle on KLZE

When I first did my KLZE conversion, it idled nicely and was fine to drive. However, after only a few thousand miles, the idle fell off to the point the car became unsafe to drive, sometimes it would stall out at a stop light, etc.

On this site is a thread under "Frequently Asked General G2 Questions" about setting the TPS and the idle by Mr.MX6. However, it is not clear if these instructions are also applicable for the KLZE. If there are any other steps to follow for my engine, please advise. I still have the original computer and MAF unit, and have no EGR on the ZE.

Any other suggestions are welcome.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Are you using the DE Throttle Body?

Yes TPS works the same way.

Start the car in diag mode, and set the TPS.
Also check your timing with a timing light and ensure that its still set properly.
Ensure the Idle Air Control is also set proper.
 

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Is it unrealistic to be asking for a KLZE that hits at least 190 psi on all cylinders? The importers I've talked to lately act like I'm asking them to cut off their arm or something.

These babies seem to be getting hard to find in premium condition. Somebody give me a name for who is the best importer they know of for these motors.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
You should PM bmxfuel007 and ask who we got ours from we can never remember.

They are local so it was like 800 something local for free.

I know they ship to the east coast for 100 something.

Both of our engines are very strong.
 

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All i have to add is that to make life easier in the future that you install the EGR system & simply transfer the whole KLDE vacuum system to the ZE while modifying whatever lines necessary to the correct places.

Shown in the picture is a KLDE head that has Circled in red the EGR port threaded block off that directs EGR to the manifold runners. On the early KLZE this port is threaded & open to the atmosphere. If you install the EGR valve you want to install the threaded plug in there. For the Late model KLZE heads that port is still there however it is blocked up with a ball bearing and needs nothing to change.

This keeps the EGR codes clear of the computer. However it does not make the EGR flow in to the motor when you are using the KLZE intake manifolds the port is simply blocked off and will not leak exhaust gas.

This leaves your options in the future open if you want to drill the ZE manifold & route the EGR to pass emissions if it is to become an issue some day for you.

I do my ZE swaps like that and never have any codes.

On another note that if you have no EGR installed and by some fluke chance you install a KLDE intake manifold on the motor your motor will not run because of a massive vacuum leak through the EGR passages.

 
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