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KLZE Intake Manifold (IM) install onto KL03/DE engines (Omaha95PGT): [Originally posted on www.probetalk.com ]

Parts needed:
-KLZE Intake manifold
-KL03 IM Phenolic spacer or KLZE IM gasket (aka Mazda Millenia 2.5L IM gasket)
-2 vacuum "T's" (if you need HVAC controls and cruise control vacuum) [5/32" fittings seem to work the best]
-zip ties
-5/16" ID heater/fuel hose about 2 feet worth (for the IAC coolant ports)
-9/16" heater hose ~3 feet worth (for the rear VC vent to the TB elbow)
-TB/IAC combinations: ZE TB/ZE IAC, modified 03 TB/ZE IAC, or 03 TB/03 IAC "T" and vac hose See directions several posts below
-Permatex Seal-a-Gasket #2 non-hardening gasket sealant
-new vac hose (if needed) 5/32" ID rubber or silicone hose
-screw type hose clamps (a lot of them various sizes small-->medium)
-2 new copper crush washers for the fuel rail banjo bolt (replacement is recommended)

Tools needed:
-7, 8, 10, 12, 17 mm socket (also 13 mm socket if you used the Outlaw Phenolic extended fasteners)
-Phillips screwdriver
-socket extensions various
-1/4", 3/8" ratchet
-Dremel/Rotary tool with grinding bit and barrel sander 1/4"
-box cutter razor blade with handle
-torque wrenches
-Pliers (various-needle nose, standard, etc)
-masking tape and marker
-vacuum cleaner
-compressed air with trigger nozzle or canned air

Torque specs:
-intake manifold nuts/bolts 14-18 ft-lb
-throttle body nuts 15-22 ft-lb
-throttle body bolts 14-18 ft-lb

Procedure:

-use the vacuum cleaner with crevice extension and the compressed or canned air to clean all of the grit and sand that's sitting in the area where the IM and the heads meet. Consider spraying some WD40 down there to hold still the grit you couldn't blow or vacuum out before lifting the IM off. Once the IM is off you can wipe up the remaining grit. Stuff paper towel or rags into the head intake ports to prevent debris from entering the cylinders. Optionally, you can tape the intake ports shut with some masking tape.

Refer to halfriceboy's intake manifold removal and installation guide

There are only a few differences with the 03 intake manifold (IM) removal and the fitment of a ZE IM. I'll go thru some of the common problems below.

Additional Troubleshooting Information can be found here.

http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=23329
 

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1) The neck of the ZE IM is longer. Problems:

It will probably make your intake elbow run into the cruise control mechansism (CCM). Your options are to remove the whole CCM, move it to a different location or manipulate the TB elbow. I've heard of people moving the brackets of the CCM to make things fit. Modifying the TB elbow or elbow couplers may help as well

The throttle body's (TB) arm may be obstructed by the brake master cylinder fluid reservoir causing the throttle to stick open about 25%. This problem usually only occurs if you are using a phenolic spacer in between the IM and the TB. It may also occur on cars without the phenolic spacer due to differing fitments. Do not modify the brake fluid reservoir until you are sure that the arm does indeed get interfered with after installation. You must be sure that the arm clears the reservoir with at least 2-3 mm of clearance. A stuck throttle can be a deadly situation leading to property damage, injury and possibly loss of life. The solution is to shave down the area of the reservoir to allow for proper clearance. Do not perforate the reservoir. Do not shave the reservoir down until you know for sure that the throttle linkage is interfered with or does not have sufficient clearance. Here is a picture showing where I had to shave the reservior down:



The 2 small coolant hoses that go to the intake air control (IAC) are not long enough to reach the IAC. You have 2 options: 1) bypass the coolant that goes to the IAC by attaching the 2 hoses together with an adapter or remove one of the hoses and connect the other hose to the other coolant hardline. 2) buy longer coolant hoses (5/16") and replace the short ones. Cut to fitment and clamp the ends accordingly. Be aware that the coolant bypass mod may cause erratic idling problems in cold (usually subfreezing) weather due to icing of the throttle body. It will also cause prolonged high idling (~1500 rpm) due to the failure of the thermowax in the IAC to melt.

The rear valve cover vent hose is too short to reach the TB to VAF elbow. You have to replace the hose with a longer one. Use a 9/16" heavy guage heater hose so it does not collapse from the heat and vacuum. You will have to route the hose in such a way as to avoid the throttle arm. I had to loop the hose under and around the brake booster to get it to situate properly on the TB elbow's port in order to prevent the hose from kinking. Put a clamp on both ends of the hose to prevent slippage and vac leaks. It is best to install the hose to the piping (underneath) before you install the IM or else you will have one heck of a time trying to fit the hose on.

The IAC wires are too short. The ZE IAC has the connector pointing to the right rather than pointing downwards as on the 03. This will make it seem that you can't connect the IAC's wiring harness. The wires are long enough just release the wires from the main harness by either loosening up the electrical tape or very carefully cutting some of the harness' tape away to give the wires some slack.
 

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The throttle cable is too long. The problem here is that the throttle cable's mounting position on the 03 IM is further away than the ZE IM's. This will leave you with about 0.75" of slack in the cable. The solution to this is to remove the throttle cable bracket on the ZE IM then flip it and reattach it to the IM. This will remove most of the slack. Slack can be removed or added by adjusting the plastic collar on the throttle cable as per the Haynes manual. Once you are done it should look like this:



The intake hits a couple of black thingies (relays?) that are mounted on the driver's side firewall This will usually only happen if you use a combination of the ZE IM, the TB phenolic and the HotShot TB elbow. You may or may not have a problem but if you do, this may help. You have to unbolt the bracket that the black thingies are mounted on and rotate it to another position on the bracket as seen in the pics below:


Stock position of the black thingies





The black thingies moved out of the way



2) There are only 3 small vacuum port nipples as opposed to the 03 IM's 5 small vac nipples. The shortage of nipples can be solved by using vacuum "T's." For Probe GT's, you have to "T" the vacuum source coming from the passenger side IM elbow. This will provide vacuum to the HVAC (heating ventilation and air conditioning) climate controls and the one way check valve (that green and white ball thing) that leads to the 2 vac chambers beneath the IM. If you don't provide vac to the climate controls, then you will only have air blowing thru the defroster vents. (Note: IIRC, MX6's should not have to "T" the vacuum here since their HVAC controls are actuated by electrically powered motors rather than vacuum actuators.) The other "T" should be placed at either the vac nipple at intake runner #6 or from the nipple at the rear of the IM. If you "T" at runner #6, it should provide vac to the fuel pressure regulator solenoid (FPRS) and the cruise control mechanism (if present). The vac port at the rear of the IM should go to the "Solenoid Valve (Purge Control)"

Vac nipple summary:
Left elbow--> HVAC and vac chambers
runner #6--> FPRS and cruise control
rear IM--> Solenoid Valve (Purge Control) (basically, the solenoid mounted to the right of the VRIS solenoids)

These pics may help you:
Vac port on passenger side IM elbow




Vac port on #6 intake runner




Vac port at rear of IM just behind the TB





Hard line vac under IM



I reused my 03 hard lines that were under the IM, so be sure to route everything according to Rick's vac diagram so that everything connects correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
3) The rectangular IM ports don't match the oval intake ports on my KL03 head. There are a several options: a) don't worry about it and just mount the IM up, b) buy a set of phenolic IM spacers from Outlaw Engineering and use a Dremel/rotary tool and a small barrel shaped sander attachment to port match the spacers in order to provide a gradual transition to the oval shaped ports (see post below for instructions) , c) remove your KL03 heads and port match the intake ports to match the ZE IM rectangular ports (very labor intensive and expensive, although I have heard a couple PT members porting their heads' intake ports while the heads were still installed in the car...watch for metal filings!), d) swap heads with a KLZE (very labor intensive and expensive)

4) The solenoid bracket from the 03 IM (consisting of the 2 VRIS solenoids and the EGR solenoid) doesn't mount anywhere on the ZE IM. Solutions: a) just zip tie it securely to something on the IM or the firewall b) remount the VRIS solenoids on the brackets provided on the ZE IM (one for each solenoid) and mount/zip tie the EGR solenoid at a place of your choice.

5) My front strut tower bar (FSTB) doesn't seem to fit anymore. This problem varies from car to car. It depends on how low your engine sits. The ZE IM sits higher than the 03 IM. You may be forced to remove the FSTB or have one custom made by RRE or your local race car fabrication shop. This style FSTB, goes behind the IM instead of above it. It is also one-piece and non-adjustable

6) My ZE IM rubs my hood. There isn't much you can do for it other than removing the IM and going back to the 03 IM or leave it as is. I guess you could shave some material off of the top of the IM's rear section, but you will risk perforating the wall of the IM.

7) My KL03 IAC has this big vacuum port that doesn't attach to anything, and now my idle is messed up. Solutions: a) get a large "T" to share the large vacuum port for the brake vacuum booster (this is not a recommended option...but if you do it, do not cut the brake booster's hose...it has a one way valve built into it), b) "T" into the PCV vac port on the neck of the IM (See instructions below) c) use a ZE TB and IAC, d) use a modified 03 TB and ZE IAC.

Note: Further installations by fellow PT'ers have shown that T'ing the vac for the brake booster will reduce the braking systems effectiveness. You may want to consider T'ing from the PCV port. But, it's recommended that you find a ZE IAC
 

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Finishing touches and tips to the installation:
-If you use the stock TB rubber elbow, you will probably be able to keep your cruise control.

-While you have the IM off, you should consider changing all of the old rubber vac hoses with fresh rubber vac hoses or silicone vac hoses. You will need at least 10 feet but most likely up to 20 feet worth of hose (there are a lot of vac hoses). You should also consider changing the rear valve cover gasket and/or adding a rear motor mount insert.

-I used a thin coat non-hardening gasket sealant on the IM to head spacer and for the TB to IM spacer. I also used copper spray-on gasket sealer on a different installation which seems to have worked well also.

-consider changing or adding on to the clamps for all of the various hoses especially the fuel line hose that goes to the FPR and the coolant lines that goes to the coolant hard line under the TB and the lines running to the IAC coolant ports. Otherwise, you may experience coolant and fuel leaks

-I would highly recommend that you use new copper washers for the banjo bolt that mounts to the fuel rail

-Remove the 2 bolts that attach the hard fuel lines to the engine block. Otherwise, you may not be able to get the hard fuel line (the one with the banjo bolt) to line up with the fuel rail which has been elevated by the phenolic spacers.

-If you swap over your fuel rail, be sure not to lose any of the 6 O-ring gasket/washers that seal the injector to IM mating points.

-adjust your TPS and idle once you have everything installed. Follow the instructions in your manual or you can follow the instructions in the following link: http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=132803

-I would recommend using the 03 hard vac and PCV piping underneath the IM since the ZE hard line piping seems to be missing some ports

-Zip tie everything into neat bunches. Especially any vac lines behind the IM. There is a risk that some hoses my contact the rear exhaust manifold/header and melt

-be sure to allow the car to idle for a while and check for fuel leaks

-after about 1 day or 20 miles whichever comes first, recheck the torque on the IM nuts and bolts. They tend to loosen up initially after installation. Recheck 2-3 more times over the following few days then in a week to make sure everything is snug. After about 2 weeks or 500 miles (whichever comes last), the IM nuts and bolts should not come loose anymore.

-Anyone swapping a KL03 for a KLZE intake manifold should seriously consider buying a VRTuner from www.rpmtuners.com , or buying a ZE VRIS chip (OBD-I only) from mikeseli or Noahfex (both on www.probetalk.com ). PM them. Both of these options will give you the proper VRIS opening points to realize the full potential of the KLZE IM. The KL03 VRIS points will give you some dips and flat spots in the power and torque curves.

Good luck with your installation.
 

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KL03 TB modification directions

KL03 TB modification directions:
Use an impact driver or a #3 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screws that fasten the TB to the IAC, if needed. A #2 Phillips will probably work, but you'll have a higher risk of stripping the screws.

This is a pic of a ZE TB. The red box shows where/what you need to drill out if you ever want to convert your 03 TB into a ZE TB for use with the ZE IAC. You can still use the ZE TB with an 03 IAC without problems. The "wall" that you have to drill out is probably only a few millimeters thick. I used a drill with a longish bit that was just a bit smaller than the passegeway. Stay more to the right of the red box. Drill 1-2 holes about the size of the blue dots. If you go too far to the left you will punch thru the bore (which isn't a horrible thing). Drill the hole about 1/3-1/2 the size of the red box in the picture. Stay to the right. It doesn't have to be bored out the entire size of the red box. Just enough to allow good air flow. IIRC, the holes are 1/4" in diameter. Use a 1/8" drill bit to make 1/8" deep pilot holes next to each other then use the 1/4" drill bit to drill the rest of the way thru. Be sure to clean out all of the metal filings when you are done or risk engine damage.



In case anyone wanted to see the differences between a KL03 and a KLZE IAC, here you go:

This picture shows the 03 IAC on the left and the ZE IAC on the right. As you can see, the large vacuum port is missing on the ZE IAC.


03 vs ZE IAC external pic



In this picture, you can see that in the lower right part of the IAC, there is an opening that takes the place of the external IAC port on the 03 IAC. The 03 IAC just has a dead end space.

03 vs ZE IAC internal passegeway pic





Here are the 03 IAC's ports identified:
03 IAC port pic




Additional Information:

Here's the kl03 intake manifold with the kl03 tb and iac with the vacuum hose connected:





Location on KL03 IM without the tb but the iac vacuum hose port exposed:





Here's a KLZE intake manifold with the ZE tb and ZE iac. It doesnt have a iac port or hose.

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Modifying the Outlaw Engineering KL03 spacers to match with the KLZE IM ports:

As noted in the instructions above, the phenolic spacers can be modified to create a somewhat gradual transition between the KLZE IM ports to the KL03 head's intake ports theoretically reducing turbulance and maximizing the performance gains of your ZE IM installation.

All you need for this setup is a set of Outlaw Engineering KL03 phenolic intake manifold spacers, a rotary tool (e.g. Dremel), and a 1/4 inch barrel sander attachment for your rotary tool. I'd also recommend safety goggles and a mask of some sorts to prevent inhaling the dust and particles created when grinding the spacers.

Here are some pics and explanations:

As you can see in the following picture, the KL03 intake ports overlap a fair amount of the KLZE's IM port predominantly at the corners.

pic of KL03 spacer port overlap on the KLZE IM

You should overlay the KL03 spacer on the KLZE IM ports. Use the bolt holes to aid in alignment as seen in this pic:

spacer aligned on the ports

Then you should use your finger to feel the edges that protrude into the ZE port:

feeling for the edges

Use your rotary tool to start a couple of points where you want to grind down

initial grinding on the spacers

The continue feeling for edges that protrude into the ZE port. You should grind these down and then angle the edges down so that they gradually meet the 03 port opening side of the spacers. Eventually, you will no longer feel an edge. Rather, you will feel a smooth transition from the IM port to the phenolic spacer. Do not alter the 03 side of the spacers since they are port matched to the heads already courtesy of Outlaw engineering. Also, do not mix up the front and rear heads or sides of the spacer that you are working on. The rear bank spacer (once modified) will only match up to the corresponding rear bank. If you compare a spacer modified for the rear you will notice that it no longer port matches when you align it with the front bank on the ZE IM.

pic of finished spacer and the barrel sander used in the procedure
 

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KL03 IAC vacuum port adapter procedure

KL03 IAC vacuum port adapter procedure
Burnt (Joel) and I adapted the 03 IAC to work off of the PCV vac. I bought the hoses from my local Pep Boys. You basically want to T into the PCV hose and provide vac for the IAC. The hose for the PCV is small (5/16") and the IAC vac port is huge (21/32"). You can make an adapter out of a short length of 19/32" rubber hose. It's stretchy enough to accomodate the 21/32" size of the IAC port but small enough to snug down onto the outer diameter of the 5/16" hose with the help of a hose clamp. You want to minimize the length of the 19/32" hose since it has a comparably thin wall and is prone to collapse. All you will need is ~2.5" of hose. ~1.25" to shove the small hose into and ~1.25" to slide over the IAC vac port. Permatex#2 is used to seal any potential vac leaks at the 19/32" to 5/16" snug fitting. Although I doubt that much oil will get to the IAC (the IAC mechanism probably only moves ~5cc's of air and doesn't ever flow any more air than that), you can protect the IAC with a 5/16" fitting fuel filter that is spliced inline of the PCV hose between the T and the PCV valve. Burnt and I tested out the system and it worked perfectly. No brake performance degredation, the idle bumps up when you turn on the A/C or add an electrical load.

Here is the procedure:

Tools needed:
-Flat screwdriver or 1/4" nut driver
-scissors

Parts needed:
-3.5 feet of 5/16" rubber fuel line (2 feet if you reuse your stock PCV hose)
-1 foot of 19/32" rubber hose (it's labelled as anti-smog hose)
-two 1/2" to 1-1/4" adjustable hose clamps
-one 5/16" plastic or metal vacuum "T"
-Permatex Seal-a-Gasket #2 non-hardening gasket sealer
-(optional) 7 small 1/2" hose clamps
-(optional) one fuel filter 5/16" ends

Procedure:
1) remove intake system
2) cut a 2.5" length of 19/32" rubber hose
3) Apply the Permatex #2 onto half of the inside of the 19/32" hose piece
4) Apply Permatex #2 onto the outer tip of one end of the 2 foot length of the 5/16" hose (~1" worth)
5) slide the prepped end of the 5/16" hose into the prepped end of the 19/32" hose. Use a hose clamp to tighten down the large hose until it snugs down onto the small hose.
6) install the completed large side of the hose onto the IAC vac port and clamp it down with the 2nd hose clamp
7) install the small side of the hose onto the 5/16" vacuum T
8) Install the T midway between the 2 halves of the PCV hose (stock hose cut in half or replacement 5/16" hose [2 pieces])

Recommended #1: install fuel filter inline of the PCV hose between the T and the PCV valve.

Recommended #2: for the best vacuum integrity, use hose clamps at all hose to port connections.

Optional: you can substitute the Permatex with tire repair "glue" (vulcanizing compound). Just rough up the inner surface of the large tube and the outer surface of the small tube. Apply some "glue" and clamp the 2 pieces down. This should bond the 2 pieces together permanently. Allow to dry for 1 day.

Please provide feedback to improve upon the directions if needed.

Some pics:
Adapter hose components




Adapter hose completed




Adapter hose attached to KL03 IAC




Adapter hose installed




PCV hose Tee'd with new IAC adapter hose




Pic of optional PCV fuel filter mod

 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
On a side note regarding EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) and EGR CELs (code #16 on OBD-I cars):

That EGR CEL (#16) can be gotten rid of if you have it set to vacuum correctly. Do not connect the EGR solenoid to the IM vacuum. It should only see vacuum coming from the VAF side of the TB. The little hose that originally ran to the stock airbox should go to a small vac port in either the air intake elbow or in one of the silicone couplings (as in the PRM setup), or somewhere in the downtube (if a bung is available). If you don't connect this vac, you will get the CEL.

When the car is idling, it should see almost atmospheric pressure (only very slight vacuum). When the throttle opens, it should see an increase in vacuum. If it's "T'd" off a vac source on the IM, it will see a huge vacuum level at idle and decreased vac at open throttle. The reverse of what it should see in the stock setup which is why it probably gives the error.

On OBD-II cars you have to ensure proper vacuum as noted above and also, you have to make sure the EGR has proper flow since the OBD-II cars had a sensor that made sure the EGR flowed exhaust gas and was not blocked off. In which case, you would have to drill a hole to the right of IM intake runner #5 on the mounting flange matching the EGR port location on the head. Then you would have to run a tube to the neck of the IM to distribute the EGR gases to the cylinders. Optimally, it should feed both the rear and front cylinder banks
 

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Fabricating an EGR pipe onto the KLZE IM

Fabricating an EGR pipe onto the KLZE IM:

Some states require emissions testing. The EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculator) is one of the integral parts of reducing emissions. For those people who live in these state, you may want to consider fabricating an EGR tube that completes the piping from the head to the intake manifold neck. Here is an example of a KLZE IM modified to regain the function of the EGR.



I'm not sure whose car this is, but thanks for the pic. I think it was Fazdaze (on PT)

If you want, I could do a write up about it. I never actually finished the piping of the EGR since I ended up selling the ZE IM I was using as my project ZE EGR'd IM. I actually have pics of the initial mod process.

The basic thought is to tap a hole just to the right of the #5 runner. This should line up with the EGR port in the rear head. Optimally, the EGR pipe should run to a spot on the IM neck that feeds both the front and rear cylinder banks. That spot is located where there is a cast aluminum fin support on the outside of the neck.

There was some discussion on the materials to use for the EGR pipe. The best would be to use 1/2" aluminum pipe bent to the appropriate shape and then brazed/welded to the IM. Unfortunately, it's also the hardest to do. The easiest would be to use bendable copper piping (such as the easily bent plumbing copper pipe you use for refrigerator ice cube maker water supply) and JB Weld it to the IM. The copper piping is so easy to bend you could even make 2 tubes feeding the front and rear banks separately. You could also use one large 1/2" copper pipe as well. If you use phenolic spacers, the JB Weld should stay cool enough so as not to fail due to heat. (I think it's rated to 300*F) Paint the JB Weld and copper piping for improved aesthetics.

With regards to passing emissions, Da-ze (on PT) said he brought his car for emissions testing and he didn't have a problem with passing his EGR-less KLZE (full) engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
... Question to moderators only: Another question...what is the pic size limit here on MX6.com? The pics look a lot bigger when you put them all up...I'll leave them as a links for now. I'll make a .doc file available for download if needed with all of the pics inline.
 

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Nice, thanx, i 'll change my IM later this week, i hope not to run through the problems. Nice thread, i was looking for some pix long time ago.
:p
we'll see how it goes...})
 
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