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1,171 Posts
that so true!!!
List you mods. HERE!
61 - 77 of 77 Posts
that so true!!!
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18,203 Posts
Maybe I should update this thread with my current cars..
88 626 Turbo 4WS:
Megasquirt 2.2 with spark control
550cc injectors
Tbird Hybrid, ported exhaust housing
Zebel Housing
Core Performance DP
2.5" Straight through piping
OEM RSTB
Dutch FSTB
OEM 4WS Subframe Connector
RX7 BBS wheels
NOS Finishline Foglight Grill
King6 rear sway bar endlinks
ES endlinks up front
Fidanza short shifter
AWR front and rear solid mounts
ATX to MTX conversion
Legacy GT calipers
MX6 front seat swap
ghetto modified digital dash
Evo Intercooler, 2.5" intercooler piping
Innovative Wibeband + Gauge
RX7 110amp alternator
EGR, A/C, Cruise delete
stock lightened and balanced flywheel
Walbro 190
ACT Street disc, Clutchmaster Stage 3 PP. Stage 3 unsprung 6 puck disc waiting to be installed
I have a PRD Stage 2 BBK; but I have no idea if I'm going to ever use it.
1997 626 V6:
ebay short shifter
gutted emissions equipment
magnaflow muffler
headers
tokico illuminas + coilover sleeves
corksport RSTB
adjustable FSTB
addco 22mm rear sway bar
mx6 gray leather front seats
mx6 leather shift knob
mx6 leather steering wheel
OEM Stainless Steel door sills
mx3 transmission
exedy clutch
unorthodox 9lb flywheel
OEM Jpec headlights
The motor I have in it reportedly has had headwork done, but I have a foaming coolant problem...so this gets parked when the above car is road worthy in a month or so hopefully.
88 626 Turbo 4WS:
Megasquirt 2.2 with spark control
550cc injectors
Tbird Hybrid, ported exhaust housing
Zebel Housing
Core Performance DP
2.5" Straight through piping
OEM RSTB
Dutch FSTB
OEM 4WS Subframe Connector
RX7 BBS wheels
NOS Finishline Foglight Grill
King6 rear sway bar endlinks
ES endlinks up front
Fidanza short shifter
AWR front and rear solid mounts
ATX to MTX conversion
Legacy GT calipers
MX6 front seat swap
ghetto modified digital dash
Evo Intercooler, 2.5" intercooler piping
Innovative Wibeband + Gauge
RX7 110amp alternator
EGR, A/C, Cruise delete
stock lightened and balanced flywheel
Walbro 190
ACT Street disc, Clutchmaster Stage 3 PP. Stage 3 unsprung 6 puck disc waiting to be installed
I have a PRD Stage 2 BBK; but I have no idea if I'm going to ever use it.
1997 626 V6:
ebay short shifter
gutted emissions equipment
magnaflow muffler
headers
tokico illuminas + coilover sleeves
corksport RSTB
adjustable FSTB
addco 22mm rear sway bar
mx6 gray leather front seats
mx6 leather shift knob
mx6 leather steering wheel
OEM Stainless Steel door sills
mx3 transmission
exedy clutch
unorthodox 9lb flywheel
OEM Jpec headlights
The motor I have in it reportedly has had headwork done, but I have a foaming coolant problem...so this gets parked when the above car is road worthy in a month or so hopefully.
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14 Posts
gidday i was woundering if you knew more about the gtr variant i have 1989 mazda capella gtr and its the only one registered in nz and i cant find any sources on it, cheers.
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2,445 Posts
Japanese specification vehicles were shipped as the Capella C2 and were available in several trims, most notably GT-R (FE-DOHC and 4WS), GT-X (FE-DOHC and AAS) or GT-S (F8 and 4WS or AAS). In other parts of Asia, the MX-6 name was also used.
New Zealand received vehicles in either European or Australian specification, selectable on order. As such, NZ GTs can have either the F2T 2.2 L turbocharged engine or the FE-DOHC 2.0 L DOHC, with optional 4WS.
Mazda Capella's started in 1970. They where sold in north America as Mazda 616 (1.6L) Mazda 618 (1.8L).
Capella A is also a star in the Auriga constellation and is the 6th brightest star in the night sky.
It has a companion star Capella B.
This would explain the 6 in north American markets.
The second generation Capella sold as 626 in other markets, why it's 26 is confusing, perhaps the 2 represent the 2.0L engine in the second gen and they just kept the 6 from 616 because 620 would sound very good. Or someone at Mazda loved astronomy and took 26 from the star 26 Auriga A which also has a companion star 26 Auriga B.
Don't think there are many people still modifying their mx6s...
Here's what I've done to my 1988 Mx6 2WS F2T (mostly in the past year).
Engine has just been rebuilt and is sitting in my garage, waiting for a couple more parts to arrive!
Standalone ECU
Wiseco 9.5:1cr Forged Pistons
Ported/Polished head
Ported intake runners (gasket matched)
Dual valve springs
ARP head studs
MLS head gasket
Custom steampipe manifold
Gtx2867 Turbo (future plans for a Gtx3071/76)
Dual stage boost control
3in Exhaust turboback w/ magnaflow muffler
FMIC + 2.5in Piping
730cc Injectors
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
Turbosmart FPR
Aem Wideband + all other necessary gauges.
Kai Camber/Castor plates
Carbon crankshaft pulley
RSTB from 4ws model
Dutch FSTB
Upgraded brake rotors
Pedders Springs
Whiteline rear sway bar
Emissions control gone.
No AC or cruise control.
Still need a lightweight flywheel, Mfactory LSD, Par forged 3rd gearset and Coilovers.
Will most likely convert fuel system to E85. Don't think the engine will enjoy P98 fuel with the higher comp pistons + boost.
Also wouldn't mind getting a custom plenum with shorter intake runners made up as well as a larger single flap throttle body (ls1 unit perhaps?).
Here's what I've done to my 1988 Mx6 2WS F2T (mostly in the past year).
Engine has just been rebuilt and is sitting in my garage, waiting for a couple more parts to arrive!
Standalone ECU
Wiseco 9.5:1cr Forged Pistons
Ported/Polished head
Ported intake runners (gasket matched)
Dual valve springs
ARP head studs
MLS head gasket
Custom steampipe manifold
Gtx2867 Turbo (future plans for a Gtx3071/76)
Dual stage boost control
3in Exhaust turboback w/ magnaflow muffler
FMIC + 2.5in Piping
730cc Injectors
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
Turbosmart FPR
Aem Wideband + all other necessary gauges.
Kai Camber/Castor plates
Carbon crankshaft pulley
RSTB from 4ws model
Dutch FSTB
Upgraded brake rotors
Pedders Springs
Whiteline rear sway bar
Emissions control gone.
No AC or cruise control.
Still need a lightweight flywheel, Mfactory LSD, Par forged 3rd gearset and Coilovers.
Will most likely convert fuel system to E85. Don't think the engine will enjoy P98 fuel with the higher comp pistons + boost.
Also wouldn't mind getting a custom plenum with shorter intake runners made up as well as a larger single flap throttle body (ls1 unit perhaps?).
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2,445 Posts
What is this Par Forged 3rd gearset you speak of?
Lightweight flywheels really aren't worth the cost, you can get 10 lbs removed from the backside of the factory flywheel for 1/6 the cost of an aluminum flywheel.
Par-Engineering make a strengthened 3rd Gear for the H-series...
A bit expensive at $940usd, but you'd never need another one.
Its what a couple of people are using to push 350hp+.
Here's a link;
F2TSH-3SET - Mazda H-Series Synchromesh Engagement (3rd speed) - PAR Engineering
Available off the shelf is a helical cut single cone synchromesh engagement gear set for 3rd gear with a ratio of 1.25 which is a direct replacement for the factory OEM gear which most often fails.
www.par-engineering.com
Good idea with the stock flywheel as well, might just do that!
Fidanza ones are like 400usd plus whatever shipping to Australia lol
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2,445 Posts
940 USD for 3rd gear, wow.Par-Engineering make a strengthened 3rd Gear for the H-series...
A bit expensive at $940usd, but you'd never need another one.
Its what a couple of people are using to push 350hp+.
Here's a link;
F2TSH-3SET - Mazda H-Series Synchromesh Engagement (3rd speed) - PAR Engineering
Available off the shelf is a helical cut single cone synchromesh engagement gear set for 3rd gear with a ratio of 1.25 which is a direct replacement for the factory OEM gear which most often fails.
Good idea with the stock flywheel as well, might just do that!
Fidanza ones are like 400usd plus whatever shipping to Australia lol
I would be very tempted if that was the price for a different ratio final drive gear (okay I would have already bough one)with like a 3.711:1 ratio.
My only problem and the only thing I have hatted about the F2T is the transmission gear ratio's, although they are taller than most FWD they are too short, ideally 1st 2nd and 3rd need to be taller, 4th and 5th stay the same add a 6th gear with a 0.61:1 gear ratio. Less wheel spin in 1st 2nd and 3rd, highway cruising in 6th gear at 120km/h at 2600rpm and a top speed of about 297-300 km/h. Tired of racing people, hitting the rev limiter in 5th and letting off the gas then have them "ricer drive by" at 280km/h in their corvette, then having to lie to them if we meet up at a set of lights and they ask -why did you let off? and I say I was so far ahead I figured the race was over and they say "are you afraid to go fast" and I have no answer to save face. Why do I lie? I once told one my car won't go faster than 256km/h, he laughed at me and drove off, although I kicked his ass he is right, he has top speed and can make his car faster but no matter how fast I make my car accelerate it will always have a slow top speed.
I use to dream of buying a Getrag FWD custom transmission for one of my cars.
So far 3rd gear failure has been random, on my 89GT it happened getting on the highway at 21psi in 3rd in cold march weather on 195 winter tires, rebuilt the transmission with used parts and drove it at higher boost for many more years and it still works. On the 626 it happen after installing the 60trim during a slow spool tuning run at 19psi trying to slowly spool 3rd gear died, rebuilt that transmission with used parts, got the boost up to 30psi, beat the shit out of the transmission while switching from 21 to 30psi from 2nd to 3rd, transmission is still working.
You are running standalone, what are your cruising A/F's in 5th at 120km/h? What is your redline set at?
Perhaps standalone can fix some of what I hate about the F2T gearbox.
The only thing I like about the Hgear box is hearing the turbo charged FE3 guys complain about how slow their car is in 5th gear running an H box, while the F2T accelerates fastest in 5th and has all the torque needed to run a sixth gear or taller final drive.
I paid 600$ cnd + tax (90$) for a Fidanza flywheel and spent 360$ to have 3 factory flywheels lightened and resurfaced, the Fidanza might be 20lb lighter than factory and the lightened wheels are 10lb lighter than factory. The only difference I notice is when the Fidanza is new and you start the car with the clutch to the floor the car makes this cool sving sound (like the sound effect they add in movies when someone pulls a sword out of it sheath) as the clutch disk gently chafes the carbon lip on flywheel but that goes away after a couple hundred KM
after that there is no noticeable difference.256Km/h? F**k me! That's crazy speed in a Mx6! lol940 USD for 3rd gear, wow.
I would be very tempted if that was the price for a different ratio final drive gear (okay I would have already bough one)with like a 3.711:1 ratio.
My only problem and the only thing I have hatted about the F2T is the transmission gear ratio's, although they are taller than most FWD they are too short, ideally 1st 2nd and 3rd need to be taller, 4th and 5th stay the same add a 6th gear with a 0.61:1 gear ratio. Less wheel spin in 1st 2nd and 3rd, highway cruising in 6th gear at 120km/h at 2600rpm and a top speed of about 297-300 km/h. Tired of racing people, hitting the rev limiter in 5th and letting off the gas then have them "ricer drive by" at 280km/h in their corvette, then having to lie to them if we meet up at a set of lights and they ask -why did you let off? and I say I was so far ahead I figured the race was over and they say "are you afraid to go fast" and I have no answer to save face. Why do I lie? I once told one my car won't go faster than 256km/h, he laughed at me and drove off, although I kicked his ass he is right, he has top speed and can make his car faster but no matter how fast I make my car accelerate it will always have a slow top speed.
I use to dream of buying a Getrag FWD custom transmission for one of my cars.
So far 3rd gear failure has been random, on my 89GT it happened getting on the highway at 21psi in 3rd in cold march weather on 195 winter tires, rebuilt the transmission with used parts and drove it at higher boost for many more years and it still works. On the 626 it happen after installing the 60trim during a slow spool tuning run at 19psi trying to slowly spool 3rd gear died, rebuilt that transmission with used parts, got the boost up to 30psi, beat the shit out of the transmission while switching from 21 to 30psi from 2nd to 3rd, transmission is still working.
You are running standalone, what are your cruising A/F's in 5th at 120km/h? What is your redline set at?
Perhaps standalone can fix some of what I hate about the F2T gearbox.
The only thing I like about the Hgear box is hearing the turbo charged FE3 guys complain about how slow their car is in 5th gear running an H box, while the F2T accelerates fastest in 5th and has all the torque needed to run a sixth gear or taller final drive.
I paid 600$ cnd + tax (90$) for a Fidanza flywheel and spent 360$ to have 3 factory flywheels lightened and resurfaced, the Fidanza might be 20lb lighter than factory and the lightened wheels are 10lb lighter than factory. The only difference I notice is when the Fidanza is new and you start the car with the clutch to the floor the car makes this cool sving sound (like the sound effect they add in movies when someone pulls a sword out of it sheath) as the clutch disk gently chafes the carbon lip on flywheel but that goes away after a couple hundred KM
I've only ever got upto 220km/h in my old mx6 (pretty much stock too, other than mild port/polish and a straight pipe exhaust) Even then, I thought that was dodgy as... Doubt I could get away with it now with all the mobile speed cameras they've introduced on the highway.
I do get what you mean with the first couple gears being quite short... Still think accelerating up to speed quicker vs. having a higher top speed is more fun - but that's just me.
You won't see many people in Aus street racing. It used to be more popular but cops have cracked down in the past couple years on so called 'hoons'.
Although a couple of months ago, I did see a Black MK.2 Chaser speed past on the highway at night-time - legit came out of no where.
I have no clue how fast he was travelling, must've been at least 250kmh. Scared the shit out of me lol
A Getrag gearbox would be lovely! And yes, I think people usually break the 3rd gear since the parts are already worn out/failing... Shifting the torque higher up in the rev range is supposed to help a lot, its the sudden torque that kills the transmissions as you would already know!
People have put Toyota boxes in before though. Can withstand more power, don't break as easily and over here are far cheaper and more available...
Unsure how different the gear ratios are to the H-series... But they have used a Toyota E153 gearbox using adapter plates and other minor modifications to make fit. The E153 is out of a 97-01 V6 Toyota Camry or 90-99 MR2.
I am running a standalone but I haven't driven the mx6 I have yet... I have all of these mods listed and I haven't driven the thing once!
Its going to be a LOT different to the previous 6s I had haha
Can't wait to be honest. My MLS head gasket should be here in a couple days then I can start putting the fresh engine back together... Don't think I'll have much to do after all this... Most things are basically done!
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2,445 Posts
Suspension, suspension, suspension.
I do run front and rear strut bars and trailing bars on all my F2T's but they don't make much difference.
Performance struts and coil springs and giant solid swaybars with monster link kits make the cars night and day.
They are pretty damn smooth and stable at 5th gear redline aside from the engine revving above 6000rpm.
How is 256km/h fast?
Did you know right now the earth is spinning at 1000mph
Did you know it's traveling around the sun at 67 000mph
Did you know our solar system is spinning around our galaxy at 490 000mph
Our galaxy and those surrounding it is hurtling through space at 2 237 000mph
And everything in space is moving towards the Cosmic microwave Background Radiation (CBR) at 872 405mph
So right now you are traveling at 3 667 405mph and can't even feel it.
Does 159mph still sound fast to you, besides I only travel at that speed against the earths rotation so while everyone else is going 3 667 405mph I am only going 3 667 246 mph but I would feel much safer if I could get it down to 3 667 216 mph (189mph top speed)
Once I ran out of 225/50 r16 tires street tires and threw on 205/50 r15 tires and rims. the 16" have a diameter of 24.9" (78.1" circumference) the 15" have 23.1" diameter (72.4" diameter), because the wheels are fixed rate with the diff (except when one wheel is spinning or the car is turning) running the 15" wheels is just like putting a shorter final drive in the diff, the car was no faster, just had to shift more cause all the gears where shorter. 238km/h was the top speed on 23.1" tires, race a car for 55km (Casselman to Ottawa) bouncing off the rev limiter in 5th the hole time, wishing I had bought another set of 225/50r16.
I hear what you are saying about acceleration vs top speed but you have an F2 block, it sucks for 1/4mile times, it drinks a lot of gas, makes lots of torque too early... But unlike all the square bore and stoke 2.0l sewing machines out there (86X86) the F2 gets faster the more you load the engine, the F2T with enough power will accelerate fastest in 5th gear. So when I'm about to race someone and he lets his passengers out for the race (so his car is lighter) I let them get in my car with my passengers for the race because it doesn't make as much difference with the F2T.
I powder coated some 16" MZU rims (heaviest 16" rim I have ever seen for a car) and put them on my 89GT mx6 (took off the much lighter protege 16" inch rims). After years of whatching people chase lighter rims and reading their posts... I was concerned they where so heavy they would make the car slower, but it was faster so I kept running them.
Besides you can't accelerate up to speed quicker with the wheels are spinning. The automatic F2T, no one likes automatics but the F2T with auto transmission will be much faster on the 1/4mile, especially in 1st and 2nd gear. They are much taller gears so the auto doesn't spin as much and just goes while the 5speed redlines 1st spinning and you try grinding it into 2nd gear (syncros spinning too fast). The auto has 4 speed transmission the gear ratios are 1st 2.80:1 - 2nd 1.54:1 - 3rd 1:1 - 4th (OD) 0.70:1 and a final gear ratio of 3.70: 1
Speed per gear with 24.9" diameter tires:
1st @ 6250 RPM = 72Km/h
2nd @ 6250 RPM = 131Km/h
3rd @ 6250 RPM = 201Km/h
4th @ 6250 RPM = 288Km/h (pretty sure it won't go that fast).
If the F2T with 15psi factory turbo can launch and accelerate like an STI in 1st and 2nd on an automatic transmission with these tall gears, then my more powerful F2T's can handle taller 1st 2nd 3rd or a 3.711:1 final drive.
At 6250rpm with 3.711:1 final drive on a 5speed H box with 24.9" wheels2nd number on 4.105:1 H final drive)
1- 62km/h ---56km
2- 113km/h---102km
3- 168km/h---152km
4- 217km/h---196km
5- 282km/h---255km
With the F2T I bet 1st and 2nd would spin less and 3rd 4th and 5th would accelerate faster.
Above 400ft lb torque on these cars I don't think it matters how tall the gears are or how many.
On my way to the drag track I came across a Mazda 3rd gen RX7, I thought this was going to be easy but to my surprise we seemed dead even, before the drag track the highway widens to double lanes and we both took off from 120kph, we where neck and neck until I put it in 5th and pulled ahead.
At the track the guy came over to my 89mx6 GT right away to ask why it's so fast (I was brooding because it wasn't fast enough), I was running a 2.5" exhaust, 100$ saab t3 45trim, chip and extra injectors (full suspension of course), he was shocked, he said he used to own one but never realized they could be that fast, he asked what gear did I use to pull away, I said 5th, he said he was in 4th and we where dead even and when he got to his peak power area in 4th I walked away. Then told me all about the Built LS6 V8 he put in the RX7 and the Nos set-up (he wasn't running nos on the street), his first run was 12.1 seconds without nos and he never ran nos that day because he didn't bring a helmet and if you break 12seconds you don't get to run again without a DOT approved helmet.
Get your car running, get your tuning right see what you can get out of that 43lb/m turbo (rated to flow enough with .86a/r T housing on a 2.5L to make 550bhp, why do you want a bigger turbo?) and get back to me about the H type transmission gear ratio or put some little 23.1" 15's on and tell me if you think it's faster. With the most tire I can stick under the car with 0 chance of rubbing I just feel the car goes 1st gear- 1second- rev limiter spinning- 2nd gear- 1..2.seconds- rev limiter spinning. or say "Redline" (take a quick breath) say "Redline" again = 6250 in 2nd.
About the toyota gearboxes and others there is a good thread hear :
Gearbox Question
Unfortunately the 4AGZD E51 and E58. the 1ZMFE E153 and E58
All these transmissions would be about 10km/h slower redline 2nd, 10km/h slower 3rd and 10 to 23km/h slower in 5th than the F2T H box.
Like I mentioned the F2T has a pretty tall gear set compared to most transmission, put one on an 8000rpm revving honda and you could use the minute hand on a watch to time the shifts. it would do 71km 1st, 131km 2nd, 195km 3rd, 251km 4th and 327 km 5th (if something with higher top speed pushed it).
You do have the instructions and torque specs for the ARP head studs and MLS gasket. Always torque head studs or bolts wet.
I will be honest it sounds like you followed a bunch of online recipes, Head studs, MLS gaskets, high comp pistons (have some don't use them, tried one run felpro instead, don't want them lower comp more boost makes more power).
Perhaps E85 will work well with your combination.
When searching for info online don't just look at the mods people do and all their advice during their build look for how long their build lasted, there seems to be a pattern of hardcore F2T and FE3 building members being online up to and a little after they get their car running and then they disappear, based on the fact they spent so much time on the forum before I don't think it's because they where too busy driving and enjoying their cars to share the results.
And I guaranty none of the project failures are because of the F blocks, they aren't snapping cranks and rods. But they blame the engine and not their lack of experience and skills and move to another engine and join an SRT4 or Talon forum and copy recipes on that forum.
The Shitty tuner blames the engine and moves on, I think the mazda F build should be moved to a better tuner and the shitty tuner should modify pedal bikes instead of cars.
Take your time, double check everything, learn to read spark plugs, get an EGT sensor (because of the high compression) and don't blow the engine and move on or I'll add you to the shitty tuner list.
If you do blow the engine it's no big deal, get another F2T run it with factory internals, make more power for less money and continue learning. Don't get attached to an engine or car get attached to a type of engine or a model of cars, engines blow up, cars get hit or crash, there is no such thing as bulletproof or indestructible, everything wears down. Every good engine builder in the world has blown engines bet the best have blown up the most because there is only one way to find the limit and next weakest point to upgrade.
Juanpac_tupac has impressed me most of almost all the 1st gen standalone users, never pushing the car beyond his tuning skills and progressively improving things.
I think the real problem is our sense of reality, I played grand turismo and read import tuning magazines, my first F2T build I started with the engine, bigger pistons, full rebuild... but go figure the guys at the machine shop knew even less than the Mazda engineers. I learned the hard way ($$$), all that stuff matters with N/A builds, turbo build you need tough parts, low compression, a set-up that flows and lots of boost and fuel.
I think that's the difference between a tuner and racer, a tuner bases his build on the engine a racer bases his build around the engine choosing a stout affordable easy to replace drop in block and all the work is done around it not in it.
I think tuners start their project disillusioned and are shocked and but hurt when the engine blows up.
The racer expects the engine or something to blow up but planed ahead and every day stuff survives is a win.
You have spent a lot of money on the block you plan to learn tuning on, that's kinda like wanting to learn to tattoo and doing you first one in the mirror on your face instead of a cheap piece of pig skin. So tattoo I mean tune carefully.
I do run front and rear strut bars and trailing bars on all my F2T's but they don't make much difference.
Performance struts and coil springs and giant solid swaybars with monster link kits make the cars night and day.
They are pretty damn smooth and stable at 5th gear redline aside from the engine revving above 6000rpm.
How is 256km/h fast?
Did you know right now the earth is spinning at 1000mph
Did you know it's traveling around the sun at 67 000mph
Did you know our solar system is spinning around our galaxy at 490 000mph
Our galaxy and those surrounding it is hurtling through space at 2 237 000mph
And everything in space is moving towards the Cosmic microwave Background Radiation (CBR) at 872 405mph
So right now you are traveling at 3 667 405mph and can't even feel it.
Does 159mph still sound fast to you, besides I only travel at that speed against the earths rotation so while everyone else is going 3 667 405mph I am only going 3 667 246 mph but I would feel much safer if I could get it down to 3 667 216 mph (189mph top speed)
Once I ran out of 225/50 r16 tires street tires and threw on 205/50 r15 tires and rims. the 16" have a diameter of 24.9" (78.1" circumference) the 15" have 23.1" diameter (72.4" diameter), because the wheels are fixed rate with the diff (except when one wheel is spinning or the car is turning) running the 15" wheels is just like putting a shorter final drive in the diff, the car was no faster, just had to shift more cause all the gears where shorter. 238km/h was the top speed on 23.1" tires, race a car for 55km (Casselman to Ottawa) bouncing off the rev limiter in 5th the hole time, wishing I had bought another set of 225/50r16.
I hear what you are saying about acceleration vs top speed but you have an F2 block, it sucks for 1/4mile times, it drinks a lot of gas, makes lots of torque too early... But unlike all the square bore and stoke 2.0l sewing machines out there (86X86) the F2 gets faster the more you load the engine, the F2T with enough power will accelerate fastest in 5th gear. So when I'm about to race someone and he lets his passengers out for the race (so his car is lighter) I let them get in my car with my passengers for the race because it doesn't make as much difference with the F2T.
I powder coated some 16" MZU rims (heaviest 16" rim I have ever seen for a car) and put them on my 89GT mx6 (took off the much lighter protege 16" inch rims). After years of whatching people chase lighter rims and reading their posts... I was concerned they where so heavy they would make the car slower, but it was faster so I kept running them.
Besides you can't accelerate up to speed quicker with the wheels are spinning. The automatic F2T, no one likes automatics but the F2T with auto transmission will be much faster on the 1/4mile, especially in 1st and 2nd gear. They are much taller gears so the auto doesn't spin as much and just goes while the 5speed redlines 1st spinning and you try grinding it into 2nd gear (syncros spinning too fast). The auto has 4 speed transmission the gear ratios are 1st 2.80:1 - 2nd 1.54:1 - 3rd 1:1 - 4th (OD) 0.70:1 and a final gear ratio of 3.70: 1
Speed per gear with 24.9" diameter tires:
1st @ 6250 RPM = 72Km/h
2nd @ 6250 RPM = 131Km/h
3rd @ 6250 RPM = 201Km/h
4th @ 6250 RPM = 288Km/h (pretty sure it won't go that fast).
If the F2T with 15psi factory turbo can launch and accelerate like an STI in 1st and 2nd on an automatic transmission with these tall gears, then my more powerful F2T's can handle taller 1st 2nd 3rd or a 3.711:1 final drive.
At 6250rpm with 3.711:1 final drive on a 5speed H box with 24.9" wheels
2nd number on 4.105:1 H final drive)1- 62km/h ---56km
2- 113km/h---102km
3- 168km/h---152km
4- 217km/h---196km
5- 282km/h---255km
With the F2T I bet 1st and 2nd would spin less and 3rd 4th and 5th would accelerate faster.
Above 400ft lb torque on these cars I don't think it matters how tall the gears are or how many.
On my way to the drag track I came across a Mazda 3rd gen RX7, I thought this was going to be easy but to my surprise we seemed dead even, before the drag track the highway widens to double lanes and we both took off from 120kph, we where neck and neck until I put it in 5th and pulled ahead.
At the track the guy came over to my 89mx6 GT right away to ask why it's so fast (I was brooding because it wasn't fast enough), I was running a 2.5" exhaust, 100$ saab t3 45trim, chip and extra injectors (full suspension of course), he was shocked, he said he used to own one but never realized they could be that fast, he asked what gear did I use to pull away, I said 5th, he said he was in 4th and we where dead even and when he got to his peak power area in 4th I walked away. Then told me all about the Built LS6 V8 he put in the RX7 and the Nos set-up (he wasn't running nos on the street), his first run was 12.1 seconds without nos and he never ran nos that day because he didn't bring a helmet and if you break 12seconds you don't get to run again without a DOT approved helmet.
Get your car running, get your tuning right see what you can get out of that 43lb/m turbo (rated to flow enough with .86a/r T housing on a 2.5L to make 550bhp, why do you want a bigger turbo?) and get back to me about the H type transmission gear ratio or put some little 23.1" 15's on and tell me if you think it's faster. With the most tire I can stick under the car with 0 chance of rubbing I just feel the car goes 1st gear- 1second- rev limiter spinning- 2nd gear- 1..2.seconds- rev limiter spinning. or say "Redline" (take a quick breath) say "Redline" again = 6250 in 2nd.
About the toyota gearboxes and others there is a good thread hear :
Gearbox Question
Unfortunately the 4AGZD E51 and E58. the 1ZMFE E153 and E58
All these transmissions would be about 10km/h slower redline 2nd, 10km/h slower 3rd and 10 to 23km/h slower in 5th than the F2T H box.
Like I mentioned the F2T has a pretty tall gear set compared to most transmission, put one on an 8000rpm revving honda and you could use the minute hand on a watch to time the shifts. it would do 71km 1st, 131km 2nd, 195km 3rd, 251km 4th and 327 km 5th (if something with higher top speed pushed it).
You do have the instructions and torque specs for the ARP head studs and MLS gasket. Always torque head studs or bolts wet.
I will be honest it sounds like you followed a bunch of online recipes, Head studs, MLS gaskets, high comp pistons (have some don't use them, tried one run felpro instead, don't want them lower comp more boost makes more power).
Perhaps E85 will work well with your combination.
When searching for info online don't just look at the mods people do and all their advice during their build look for how long their build lasted, there seems to be a pattern of hardcore F2T and FE3 building members being online up to and a little after they get their car running and then they disappear, based on the fact they spent so much time on the forum before I don't think it's because they where too busy driving and enjoying their cars to share the results.
And I guaranty none of the project failures are because of the F blocks, they aren't snapping cranks and rods. But they blame the engine and not their lack of experience and skills and move to another engine and join an SRT4 or Talon forum and copy recipes on that forum.
The Shitty tuner blames the engine and moves on, I think the mazda F build should be moved to a better tuner and the shitty tuner should modify pedal bikes instead of cars.
Take your time, double check everything, learn to read spark plugs, get an EGT sensor (because of the high compression) and don't blow the engine and move on or I'll add you to the shitty tuner list.
If you do blow the engine it's no big deal, get another F2T run it with factory internals, make more power for less money and continue learning. Don't get attached to an engine or car get attached to a type of engine or a model of cars, engines blow up, cars get hit or crash, there is no such thing as bulletproof or indestructible, everything wears down. Every good engine builder in the world has blown engines bet the best have blown up the most because there is only one way to find the limit and next weakest point to upgrade.
Juanpac_tupac has impressed me most of almost all the 1st gen standalone users, never pushing the car beyond his tuning skills and progressively improving things.
I think the real problem is our sense of reality, I played grand turismo and read import tuning magazines, my first F2T build I started with the engine, bigger pistons, full rebuild... but go figure the guys at the machine shop knew even less than the Mazda engineers. I learned the hard way ($$$), all that stuff matters with N/A builds, turbo build you need tough parts, low compression, a set-up that flows and lots of boost and fuel.
I think that's the difference between a tuner and racer, a tuner bases his build on the engine a racer bases his build around the engine choosing a stout affordable easy to replace drop in block and all the work is done around it not in it.
I think tuners start their project disillusioned and are shocked and but hurt when the engine blows up.
The racer expects the engine or something to blow up but planed ahead and every day stuff survives is a win.
You have spent a lot of money on the block you plan to learn tuning on, that's kinda like wanting to learn to tattoo and doing you first one in the mirror on your face instead of a cheap piece of pig skin. So tattoo I mean tune carefully.
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Come to think of it maybe you shouldn't be offering your spare F2T for sale, Maybe you should take it all apart, clean everything install all new gaskets and run it in your car to begin with if you blow it than your out very little and you learned 1 of the millions of things not to do, If your successful and install your built block just increase fuel and pull timing = to the % of compression increase + 5% and dial things in.
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Mad MX6 here is an example of the factory H transmission gears being too short for the F2T.
This is two clips (one video) of my 1988 Mazda 626 GT, T3 60trim, 21psi, rolling at about 40km/h in second gear on 225/50 r16 performance tire. You can hear the wheels spin and the engine bouncing off the rev limiter faster than I can let go of the steering wheel and shift.
The new body/ build of this car focuses or resisting rust, improving braking, increasing reliability, improving handling, reducing wheel spin and perhaps getting 18 mile per gallon average when driving at wide opened throttle.
I do fear that if I still can't get traction in 1st gear and manage traction in second the car will break axles.
This is two clips (one video) of my 1988 Mazda 626 GT, T3 60trim, 21psi, rolling at about 40km/h in second gear on 225/50 r16 performance tire. You can hear the wheels spin and the engine bouncing off the rev limiter faster than I can let go of the steering wheel and shift.
The new body/ build of this car focuses or resisting rust, improving braking, increasing reliability, improving handling, reducing wheel spin and perhaps getting 18 mile per gallon average when driving at wide opened throttle.
I do fear that if I still can't get traction in 1st gear and manage traction in second the car will break axles.
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