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Found a nice 94 LS MTX, 77k, very clean interior. It does have some issues and I'd like to know if these are common to the breed or not, and also how difficult and expensive to fix:

1) both headlights are clouded - not moisture inside but uniformly hazy.

2) at idle with AC and some accessories on, the charge light came on. Sign of a dying alternator?

3) There is a vibration on acceleration felt through the pedal and wheel. Also, hard left turns in a parking lot (imagine a 0.5 MPH donut) there is a clicking. I'm guessing these are related and a CV/axle issue?

4) There are a few small rust spots - windshield header, bottom of doors, rear quarters. Do these cars have a propensity to rust? Is this "normal" for a MX-6 or is this a bad sign of things to come.

Asking price, BTW, is $3500. ABS, cloth, Sony CD, Borla, Tokico shocks, new Continentals on OEM wheels, 60k service w/timing belt done. Comments on price relative to above?


Thanks,
Ron
soon-to-be
 

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ronhbar said:
1) both headlights are clouded - not moisture inside but uniformly hazy.

2) at idle with AC and some accessories on, the charge light came on. Sign of a dying alternator?

3) There is a vibration on acceleration felt through the pedal and wheel. Also, hard left turns in a parking lot (imagine a 0.5 MPH donut) there is a clicking. I'm guessing these are related and a CV/axle issue?

4) There are a few small rust spots - windshield header, bottom of doors, rear quarters. Do these cars have a propensity to rust? Is this "normal" for a MX-6 or is this a bad sign of things to come.

Asking price, BTW, is $3500. ABS, cloth, Sony CD, Borla, Tokico shocks, new Continentals on OEM wheels, 60k service w/timing belt done. Comments on price relative to above?


Thanks,
Ron
soon-to-be
1. headlights easy to fix..do a search it's been covered 100 times.

2. very well could be, maybe battery who knows

3. could be tires out of balance on vibration. could be cv or struts or rack pinion steering on turning.

4. mine doesn't have rust..but i take care of any rust problems every year. Get it before it spreads. www.por15.com

check on KBB.com for wut its worth
 

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ronhbar said:
Found a nice 94 LS MTX, 77k, very clean interior. It does have some issues and I'd like to know if these are common to the breed or not, and also how difficult and expensive to fix:

1) both headlights are clouded - not moisture inside but uniformly hazy.

2) at idle with AC and some accessories on, the charge light came on. Sign of a dying alternator?

3) There is a vibration on acceleration felt through the pedal and wheel. Also, hard left turns in a parking lot (imagine a 0.5 MPH donut) there is a clicking. I'm guessing these are related and a CV/axle issue?

4) There are a few small rust spots - windshield header, bottom of doors, rear quarters. Do these cars have a propensity to rust? Is this "normal" for a MX-6 or is this a bad sign of things to come.

Asking price, BTW, is $3500. ABS, cloth, Sony CD, Borla, Tokico shocks, new Continentals on OEM wheels, 60k service w/timing belt done. Comments on price relative to above?


Thanks,
Ron
soon-to-be
1. Some blue magic from autozone and about 15 mins of polishing will take that right out. Did wonders for mine.

2. sounds like it.

3. probally correct. Check to see if the CV boot is torn or gone

4. 94 LS, no rust here (that ive noticed)


Other than the mechanical problems. Doesnt seem that bad. I payed about $ 7000 for mine in 2001. Mine has body damage from a tree that fell on the drivers side while it was in the lot. About 4 dents all the way up to the top of the window. I may have payed a little too much, but i loved the car. Had 78k miles on it when i got it.

Repairs arent cheap and it can be a pain to work on at times, but its a MX6, not a neon or escort or something.

I still got mine, and if they still made them, i would get a new one 8 )
 

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1)headlights are easy to clean, but will not be crystal clear

2)Check the battery, if the battery's fine, probably the alternator

3)Check the cv boots. If they're cracked then the joints are bad.

4)Rust at the bottom of doors and quarter panels? Get a carfax report and see if it's been in a flood.

If the timing belt has been changed, ask if the water pump was replaced as well. They're usually done at the same time. The distributors have been known to fail. You'll probably have to get a new or rebuilt one eventually. Check the spark plug wells. If there's oil in them, VCGs will need to be replaced. Other than that, they're very reliable cars.
 

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georgehoang said:
3)Check the cv boots. If they're cracked then the joints are bad.
I do believe one of my cv boots is cracked...does this mean the joints are bad? and if so, is this a serious issue, and agian, if it is serious, how much am I looking at to get it fixed?

any help would be great :) thanks!

-Ashley
 

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JackAsh said:
I do believe one of my cv boots is cracked...does this mean the joints are bad? and if so, is this a serious issue, and agian, if it is serious, how much am I looking at to get it fixed?

any help would be great :) thanks!

-Ashley
Just had my axle replaced as well as my T-belt/water pump/bearings/tensioner, etc.
The bill was like $850. I think the axle was about $200~250 of that total.
I did my headlights with wet sanding finishing with 2000 grit, then polish. Not perfect, but maybe a 9 out of 10.
I have no rust issues, so cant comment other than to deal with it sooner than later.
I paid $5500 US in 2002 for a 94 LS with 59K on the clock, in near perfect shape. I'd say you may have a good deal in front of you, especially if you can get the service records.
 

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JackAsh said:
I do believe one of my cv boots is cracked...does this mean the joints are bad? and if so, is this a serious issue, and agian, if it is serious, how much am I looking at to get it fixed?

any help would be great :) thanks!

-Ashley
Ashley,
Depends on how long your cv boot has been cracked. If it's recent, you might be able to get away with just replacing the boot. If it's been there awhile, dirt and grime would have gotton into the joint. Then it starts clicking when you turn. That's when you have to replace the joint. Hope that helps.
 

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Hey bro where r u from ? im in Fl n i almost bought one with about the same everything n it had the popping to its the rack pinion which at 77k miles thats not a good sign that means that cars been dogged like **** which means who knows what else is wrong i recommend not to buy it
 

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georgehoang said:
Ashley,
Depends on how long your cv boot has been cracked. If it's recent, you might be able to get away with just replacing the boot. If it's been there awhile, dirt and grime would have gotton into the joint. Then it starts clicking when you turn. That's when you have to replace the joint. Hope that helps.
I think it's cheaper to replace the axle/cv joint as a unit with a remanufactured unit. That's what happened on mine anyway.
 

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georgehoang said:
Ashley,
Depends on how long your cv boot has been cracked. If it's recent, you might be able to get away with just replacing the boot. If it's been there awhile, dirt and grime would have gotton into the joint. Then it starts clicking when you turn. That's when you have to replace the joint. Hope that helps.
That does help! another question, sorry :) so...how much would it normally cost to replace a boot? and how much if the whole joint has to be replaced? parts and labour (or at least usual time it takes)?

-Ashley
 

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Ashley,
Down here in VA, a cv job costs around $200, depending on where you go. I'm not sure what the conversion rate for canadian dollars is, but it might cost a little more up there, since you live further up north. Just call a few repair shops to get the cheapest estimate. That estimate is for replacement of the whole axle, which is your best bet.
 
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