[sixer]

I have reciently had H&Rs put on and when I got my car back there was a loud suspention boom. I took it back and they said that the mechanic simply didn't tighten the center nut on the left rear strut tight enough. They tightened it and it went away for a while, but now when every I hit a set of bumps the nut loosens up again and I have to crawl into my trunk to tighten it. Did the mechanic break something, did I break something, or am I not tightening enough? Does anyone know what the spec is on that nut, lbs/sq inch?

 

[Guest]

The nut is supposed to be 66-87 ft/lb

 

[sixer]

I worked on my left rear strut again today because the noise came back on my way to work today and I have noticed that the nut is tight, but it seems that the whole top of the strut where the nut is at, is pivoting around three degrees and when it rotates the noise occurs. The noise goes away when I rotate it around to the right, but when I hit a bump it rotates back around and makes the noise. Does anyone have any suggestions or info on this? If not I am going to make an oppointment with a dealer to find out what is going on. I really don't want to, because they don't seem to be all that honest/knolegable. Please, help if you have any ideas.

 

[6dawg]

I don't know if this helps or not. Try buying a new nut. Whenever I change struts and springs on other cars, the struts come with a new nut that has a nylon bushing inside of it. The first time you tighten the nut on the strut, the bushing acts as if a washer, on top of that my car has a lockwasher too. I don't think strut manufacturers intend for struts to be changed out except to get new ones which would come with a new nut with the bushing. Try the new nut with a lockwasher too.
Hope this helps.

 

[Guest]

Use a locking nut. Put a washer on it and a locking nut and torque it to specs.