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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have freaking had it with my seeping valve cover gasket... This will be my 4th one in a year.

The last one, I replaced about 4 weeks ago and its starting to seep again, and that was with a Mazda gasket, new bolts and black RTV only at the corners - torqued to proper specs... I'm pissed!

I'm thinking this time I'll do it the old fashioned way - flat gasket material (cork or fabric), an Exacto knife and that old molasses gasket sealer. If it's good enough for a '75 Ford 302", it's good enough for an '89 Mazda 134"

Opinions, tips... anyone?
 

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Wow, it seems you've been fighting that thing for quite some time. Perhaps your valve cover or cylinder head is warped? Is it seeping from the same spot each time? I replaced mine with a Mazda gasket about two months ago and haven't had any problems. :confused:
 

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the exact way i did mine was first clean ALL the old gasket from the valve cover and engine, then i used some paper towel to clean off oil from the engine, then windex and paper towel to clean it tottaly to the metal and no oily film.

After all this i put the black RTV sealant on the 4 spots around the corners and i torqued my valve cover down (wrong order but still working so far) and last and most importantly, my engine was cold when i started this and i let my car sit cold for 24 hours without starting it. if you live in a really cold area you may consider letting it sit longer then that even. BTW i live in California and it was fall when i did this so it was pretty warm.
 

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Sounds to me like somthings not flat on the mating surfaces. I had my Valve cover gasket changed a while back and it dosn't seep at all. Ive also took it off and put it back on myself with no seeping, mabey you should get a Machine shop to check your valve cover out.

Methman
 
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Turbobink said:
I have freaking had it with my seeping valve cover gasket... This will be my 4th one in a year.

The last one, I replaced about 4 weeks ago and its starting to seep again, and that was with a Mazda gasket, new bolts and black RTV only at the corners - torqued to proper specs... I'm pissed!

I'm thinking this time I'll do it the old fashioned way - flat gasket material (cork or fabric), an Exacto knife and that old molasses gasket sealer. If it's good enough for a '75 Ford 302", it's good enough for an '89 Mazda 134"

Opinions, tips... anyone?
Our Valve cover uses a rubber gasket, even on a slightly warped VC, it should still seal as long as you don't overtorque it.

Fingertight the bolts, and then give them each a 1/2 turn with a rachet. NO TIGHTER.
 

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Make sure you clean the valve cover very well, I used the RTV everywhere, just to make sure. Be very accurate when you torque, you HAVE to torque. Torque evenly, 1/2 turn per bolt at a time. This is very important, I did learn this the hard way. Maybe even go as far as getting new bolts. I would make sure I get it right this time. You can eliminate this problem if you do these things.
 
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I've replaced my valve cover gasket once, directly after I bought the car because it was leaking. I did not use RTV sealant.

Since then, I've had the valve cover on and off over ten times. I've never had a leak.

The manual says to torque it to 3 ft lbs. Anything more than half a turn of a rachet is more than that.

Torque it right, and you'll never have problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
After reading everyone's posts I've done most everything correctly...

The bolts have been replaced. Everything was thoroughly cleaned. RTV at the corners. I did torque to 5 lbs., however. Maybe thats the problem.

Also, I thought of something on my way home last night. I've got that oil in the distributor problem as some of us do.

I'm wondering if the oil I'm thinking is soming from the VC is actually coming from the distributor area and finding its way to the VC corner?
 
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Turbobink said:
After reading everyone's posts I've done most everything correctly...

The bolts have been replaced. Everything was thoroughly cleaned. RTV at the corners. I did torque to 5 lbs., however. Maybe thats the problem.

Also, I thought of something on my way home last night. I've got that oil in the distributor problem as some of us do.

I'm wondering if the oil I'm thinking is soming from the VC is actually coming from the distributor area and finding its way to the VC corner?
Replace your distributor O-Ring/distributor housing seal immediatly before the oil causes any serious damage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
I figured I'd just replace the whole thing... It's nearing 15 years old with 131K miles and I'm finding replacements are only running from about $170 to like $210 if I avoid going to Mazda or Ford.
 
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