Mazda MX-6 Forum banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,298 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK well, the other day I noticed a grinding noise in both my front and back breaks so I want and bought some new Preium brake pads (abestoes free break dust, helps shims the rotors etc.). anyway, it turns out that in my front only one pad was worn out and in the back the same thing...the rest were fine (so I kept them for spares). I find this very unusual, any ideas?
After I got the breaks on I started my car and drove it home...by the time I got home I had a bad Vacume leak...well I found it...it was the white dotted hose thats behind the throttle body leading to the 1st relay (looking from the front of the car going from right to left) The plastic nipple was broken right off so It wasn't just as easy as reconnecting the hose.
So I went to the junk yard and pulled the same relay (the first one with the 2 nipples on the bottom) off of a 1992 NA MX-6, then I got home and installed it. Then I started my car...well the Vacume leak was gone, of course, but my idle was all over the place and I could hear/feel the relay ticking. Sometimes my idle will bounce up from 1500rpm to 1700rpm then back down to 1500rpm and will continue doing this over and over. Then at other times my idle will bogg right down when comming to a stop then it will sit at 200rpm and barly idle.
So I guess my question is, is it this relay thats causing my idle problems (I checked my coolant level so don't even metion that...lol), is it possible that the relay isn't working on my car because its from a NA, or is the relay just broken.
Can someone tell me what each of the relays are used to controll. Especialy the first one (going from right to left), and if this is my problem or should I be looking into fixing/chaging a different part. Such as my ICS.

MAN I WISH I HAD A REPAIR MANUAL!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks

Methman

Thanks
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
4,040 Posts
indent/paragraph

Did you type that all without taking a breath?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
489 Posts
Maybe the junker part is broken too, check for the new part price, if it aint very expensive,well, buy the part and one less thing to worry.Otherwise try to get an lx junker part
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,327 Posts
If it has vacuum lines and electrical wiring on it, it is not a relay; it is a solenoid valve. The concept is the same as a relay though: when voltage is applied across the solenoid (two terminals), the vacuum path either opens or closes (depending on design)

From what you describe, I believe you are referring to the purge control valve for the carbon canister. (Look at this scan from the factory manual - the turbo vacuum line diagram) If you look at the diagram for the nonturbo (here) you'll see that the two look slightly different, so perhaps they are not the same as you thought. You may have to find a GT to get the solenoid valve off of.

MAN I WISH I HAD A REPAIR MANUAL!!!!!!!!!!
Maybe with the cash you saved from buying a single stage thermostat and the home depot TB boot, you have some left over for a factory repair manual. :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
707 Posts
Maybe with the cash you saved from buying a single stage thermostat and the home depot TB boot, you have some left over for a factory repair manual.

hahhahaahhhaha:D , sorry that was just funny, but anyways i agree, it's like taking a fuel injector from a n/a and sticking it on a turbo and wondering what's wrong, their made different for a reason, you may want to do as magik8 said and source one from the gt.

tom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,298 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
magik8 said:
If it has vacuum lines and electrical wiring on it, it is not a relay; it is a solenoid valve. The concept is the same as a relay though: when voltage is applied across the solenoid (two terminals), the vacuum path either opens or closes (depending on design)

From what you describe, I believe you are referring to the purge control valve for the carbon canister. (Look at this scan from the factory manual - the turbo vacuum line diagram) If you look at the diagram for the nonturbo (here) you'll see that the two look slightly different, so perhaps they are not the same as you thought. You may have to find a GT to get the solenoid valve off of.



Maybe with the cash you saved from buying a single stage thermostat and the home depot TB boot, you have some left over for a factory repair manual. :D
Your 100% right its is a solnoid not a relay (the relays are beside the solnoids. and yes I was so stressed about all of these problems that I typed that all without takingt a breath...lol;).
The Valve that I had to replace was the "Purge Valve"...so I have a question....what is the function of the purge valve and does it have anything to do with your idle control.
I went to mazda and they said the part numbers of the "purge Valve" was the same for both the NA and the Turbo, also the Solnoid I took off this DX (92) looked excatly the same. Mabey they replaced the purge valve with a GT one at some point of time during the cars life. It wouldn't surprise me that they told me wrong info because it wouldn't be the first time that the guys at Mazda gave me missinformation!!! the part guys like to think they're mechanics. They also like to think that they know it all and will not listen to you when you try to tell them about your car and what you need (Because Im just the customer I don't know anything...lol). They told me I needed the part number off of the solnoid because that was the only way they could look it up :rolleyes: Anyway, I found a way to pull the nipples out of the "Purge Valve". So what I did was I took the NA purge valve and pulled the nipples out of the bottom, then I took my "good" (As far as I know) Purge Valve and pulled the broken nipples out of the bottom of that. Then I put the good set of nipples on my stock GT purge Valve and reinstalled it. the problem is still there.
So I'm thinking this "purge Valve" is not my problem. Of course I won't know for sure until I find out what its for and what it controls. What I'm thinking is my ICS or my TPS are going bad and I have been told by alot of experts (one of them was a RX-7 expert also), that if they go bad the idle goes all over the place and dosn't know what to do. Basicly what my idle is doing.
I start the car and it idles high like it should when its cold but once my single stage...lol T-stat opens ;), the idle will hit 15000 and bounce from 1500rpm's to 1700rpm's then back down again (it does this continusly...{I know my spelling is terrible} ) after driving for a bit it will bogg and stall instead of idling high.
SO there is three things I can think of...because I think the only problem with my "purge valve" was the Vacume leak.

1. The sensor that tells the car that it is at operating temp and to lower the idle, is malfunctioning. (so I need to know where that sensor is located)

2.ICS (Idle Control Sensor) could be failing, and causing the problems, (this is located right behind the TB...correct?)

3.TPS (Throttle position sensor) don't think it is this but would like to check it out anyway.....so where do I find it?

and lastly....LOL...I'm going to quote it because I thought it was really funny...

Maybe with the cash you saved from buying a single stage thermostat and the home depot TB boot, you have some left over for a factory repair manual. :D
[end-quote]

Even though we battled about this and ended up making a supper long pointless thread. I want to call truce, between us, and let you know that your joke was actually really funny to me. problem is I didn't save enough from just those two things to get a manual.
The Home Depot TB boot works but I don't like it now, the only reason it wasn't blowing off before was because of my Vacume and boost leaks, now that I got them fixed, I find myself constanly getting out of the car to retighten the hose clamps. So if anyone has a Stock OEM MAZDA TB boot they can spare I'll buy it as long as its not cracked and is a fair price. As for the T-stat... I still stand by my word that the single stage is just fine to run in the MX-6...but like we said....to each their own right ;)

Thanks

PS: Does anyone have a link to an online repair manual for a 1990 that I can print out, that would be better than no manual.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
707 Posts
here is another guess about the idle, and im not sure if the mx6 has one but does the mx6 have a electronic air control valve, working at a honda dealership i see this alot, no it's not common but with spuratic idling this has normally been the culprit, and methman i also was with you on teh one stage stat issue, yes it may be cheap, but it gets the jobs done, even if only half ars, it still gets it done.

tom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,298 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thats a good question...can anybody answer it???
Anyway, I tried another Purge solnoid from the junkies...and still no change. but I did learn somthing that may be useful to the rest of the MX-6.com comunity....When it comes to the purge solnoid, they are the same for both the NA and the GT for 1990-1992, but for 1989 and older they used a different type of purge solnoid.
The 1990-1992 use the purge solnoid like in the first scan, called "look at this scan.....etc" And both the NA's and the GT purge solnoid are interchangeable with the 90-92. (mabey thats why Mazda listed it as the same part number for both the NA and the GT, Because they were looking at the 1990 parts. The 89 and older use the purge solnoid from the second scan called "(Here)", Im not 100% sure if the 89- NA's used the same purge solnoid as the 89- GT's but Im pretty sure they did. (mabey somthing for my fellow members to look into.

Now Back to my problem. Like I said I tried 3 Purge solnoids from the junkies and still no change in the condition (bouncing idle after T-stat opens, and higher than normal idle when warming up (I know its souposed to go to at least 1k but its going to 1500k-2k).
So I decided it could be one of these things......please tell me which you think I should pay the most attition to.

1. Bad O2 sensor (I have noticed bad gas milage)

2. Broken/dead MAP sensor (im pretty sure our car uses one)

3. Vacume leak? (but wouldn't that make the car bogg? or does it depend?)

4. MAF ( I really hope not! It's probley not because the car actualy runs ok, beside the idle problems, that is.)

5. TPS (but im not getting any TPS codes)

6. ICS (but again I'm not getting any ECU codes)

Please tell me what you guys think I really need/want to fix this without too much hassle.

thanks

Methman
 
G

·
Our car has no MAP sensor or MAF :)

It uses a VAF to read entering air flow. If it had a MAP sensor it would not need a MAF or a VAF.

Check to see if you accidently unplugged your thermosensor. And then replace with another.

Sounds to me like thats the culprit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,298 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks Flyswat....I got the MAF mixed up with the VAF. I knew we use a VAF, just didn't know if we used a MAP sensor or not . But it makes sense now if you have a VAF there is no need for a MAP sensor.
Anyway I found and fixed the problem. The other night I went to go pick up my GF at work well the car barley started but it did. On the way there my A/F gauge went completly blank and all it would do was boggg when I gave it gas, so I knew right then O2 sensor!!!!! why didn't I think of it before...I mean bad gas milage, smelling gas (thought it was because of my hollow CAT, but it wasn't just that).
The next day I called Mazda and asked them how much for a replacement OEM O2 sensor. They quoted me $225+ Tax!!!! I was like OMFG I HATE MAZDA!!!!! Now you know why I just take my chances with the $7 T-stat instead of the $40 2-stager OEM.
So I just got a normal aftermarket/universal O2 sensor for $45 what a difference, and now my car is back to running like it was before, and with WAY better gas millage. and no smell of rich running.
But now I discovered a leak in my RAD (I just replaced it last year). Why do they have to put the serial number on the tank, (thats where its leaking from right aroung that squar where the serial number is on.

But the good thing is the Majior problem is fixed.

Methman
 
G

·
Methman.

I have a radiator for sale. Its for the turbo and it has metal end caps. It pressure tested just fine.

Theres a small section with bent fins as shown in the pictures, but they shouldnt affect its cooling ability at all, and it wont come with the cooling fan.

$40 + Shipping if you want it.

Pictures:





 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,298 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Fly Can you go weigh it at the post office and find out how much shippment would be from the USA to CANADA, so I can see if its going to be worth it or not... Don't get me wrong your price is just fine, but sometimes shipping cost so much that it makes it not worth it. So if you can I'd be very happy if you could go and check how much shipping will be.

Thanks fly.

PS: IS this a OEM Stock RAD with aftermarket metal caps? Or is it an aftermarket RAD? Also Does the fan come with it? I don't really need it, so if it makes a big difference in weight you can go ahead and take it off to make shipping cheaper. But I am diffentally interested in buying this RAD from you....I also need a better BOV to replace my stock Bypass (im sick of having my boost drop off to 12psi's when its set for 13psi's.

thanks.

Methman
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,298 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top