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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I always assumed it was the turbo, blowing oil and everything, since the engine was freshly rebuilt. Well, I did a compression test, which I guess I should have done in the beginning, and it was roughly 90 on all cylinders. I still haven't done another test with oil in the cylinders, but, I know what'll happen, the compression will be higher and it'll be my smurfing rings.
I'm a little upset, I broke the engine in correctly, but, I guess it overheated or something, I blew a head gasket and the head was warped. Someone told me that overheating could cause the rings to collapse. He also said that even though my temp gauge didn't read high at all, that it didn't mean anything, and it still could have overheated. Well, that's just smurfing wonderful. My engine can overheat and I'll never have any idea. So, my car is running for now, when I can get it to start <which apparently, can be difficult with low compression>. It's running, but, I'm smoking everyone out, and it's embarrasing. I'd love to get another car, but, I can't afford one, so, looks like another rebuild.
Someone shoot me.
 

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What rings did you use for the last rebuild? I've always heard that Mazda rings are the best.
 

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Sorry to hear that; did you ever consider rebuilding it yourself? It is what I am doing now with my old engine. Sure it takes time; but when you are done you should know just about every inch of that block... :)
 

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Originally posted by TexasMX6GT
Someone shoot me.
BANG!

Boy, all the problems you've been having :sigh: Sorry to hear it man. After all this I hope that car gives you a lot of driving pleasure when you get it right.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I went to a machine shop, and just had a rebuild done, nothing performance, and I didn't specify parts. It cost $1,057 and change.
I would rebuild it myself, but, this is my only car, I don't have 5 or 6 others to fall back on, it has to be done right, and it has to be done quickly. I'm gonna get it done right this time too, Mazda rings, bored .030 over, everything balanced and polished. It'll cost a little more, but, I can get credit at the machine shop where I got the work done last time. Regardless of what happened, everyone I've ever talked to has praised the shop, so, I figured it's something I did, and not something he did, that caused the engine to crap out. Like maybe I didn't break it in properly or something.
 

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90psi?

whooo!!! that's awfully low man. that's minimum for our cars. when i got done rebuilding my car, i got 125psi all across. of course right now i've got blown valve seals like you too so i'm smoking everyone too!!!!!!! :p
 

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yah that is awfulXO...sounds like crappy rings or the rings were installed incorrectly (upside down, compression rings' expansion slots are lined up). Worped engine block and/or head, the head is most likely to be worped. Only other problem I can think of now is that the valves aren't sealing correctly(pitted seats, uneven seats)...but it's very rare for that to happen in all four cylinders.

To generalize break-in...for at least 500miles no towing or heavy loads. For 1000miles no racing, high revving. Make sure engine is fully warm before any hard driving. No long periods of idling. Just plain put...nothing out of ordinary for a 'normal' person. Just drive the car with minimum engine/drivetrain stress. That is my opnion when even using moly rings.

Hope it goes right for yah this time...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, I am certainly gonna get to the bottom of what happened, if anyone wants to see my head gasket and such, when I pulled the head right before all this crap started going wrong, I've got pictures up at http://photos.yahoo.com/texasmx6gt
click on my car, and the pictures are on the second page, I think.
If it tells you to log in, it's because you have an account there already, just enter your login information and it'll let you through.
 
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