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Discussion Starter #1
I just picked up my order of parts from Rock Auto. I elected to go with Moog tie rod ends because according to the conjecture and "expert" opinions on the internet, they're the best. For just a few $ more, I figured why not get the good ones and never replace again.

My question is about the quality of the machining in the joint. I was looking at my remaned rack and the new inner tie rods on it are very stiff, but when I can get them to move they have that nice smooth machined metal feel to them. A picture of the ball on the inner rods shows a very polished surface.


By awetmore at 2011-09-10

By awetmore at 2011-09-10

Yet these Moogs have a coarse feel when I move them. The ball inside (from what little I can see of it) doesn't look very polished or even machined very smooth. Also, the thin piece of metal inside the joint surrounding the ball moves around as well if I move the stud from side to side to max travel (not sure if this is a big deal). It's still quite stiff, but I'm not sure this is normal.

Here's the joint moved one way:

By awetmore at 2011-09-10

And the other way, you can see the thin sheet metal part moving as well.


By awetmore at 2011-09-10

The overall quality of the unit looks pretty bad actually. If I'd bought a cheap Chinese made part, I'd hope it would look and feel better but figure I got what I paid for. The area where the rubber boot seals against is a fairly coarse and rough casting and I have my doubts how well it will keep the salty water out.


By awetmore at 2011-09-10

I hope the appearance isn't indicative of what the internal quality is because right now the brand name's reputation is all that's keeping me from returning these. Interestingly, these joints do not have the typical "MOOG THE PROBLEM SOLVER" written on the top, although the box they came in shows an illustration of a ball joint with exactly that written on it.


By awetmore at 2011-09-10


By awetmore at 2011-09-10

Kinda makes me wish I went for the "precision machined stud" and "low friction performance" of the Raybestos:


Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
There seems to be a lot of discussion online about MOOG repackaging other peoples (Duralast comes up a lot ) parts in a MOOG box and charging +$. @ssholes. I don't believe these are MOOGS, they're probably not even made in the USA - for whatever that's worth.
 

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You might want to grease that first before playing with it.
Sounds like metal on metal to me, there are grooves in the cup for the grease to pass through and lubricate the the center ball.

Not to be an ass ok maybe a little, but that's kinda like taking a video of an engine running without oil and asking whats the chafing sound is.

I have never had a problem with moog outer tie rods or ball joints putting down a lot more torque on rough Quebec roads.

Put it on the car .
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Point taken on the grease. It's just that all the other joints I have (ball, inner tie rod,) and other outer tie rods I've seen had a very smooth action to them. Maybe because they were a sealed unit and therefore already greased.

But I wanted the input of people who have seem this style of tie rod before to know if these are suppose to feel like this or if it's a good indicator that they're defective or badly made. (highly suspect that they are real Moog, probably they're knock off made in China crap) If so, I'd return them before installing and paying for an alignment, only to replace them in a few months and do another alignment.
 

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Hi guys,

Nobody has been posting about tie rods recently and it has been years since thread posts about tie rods. After searching here, I think it would be better to for me to post. Since I haven't seen recent posts about tie rods, I have been experiencing an issue with mine, I have to replace my inner tie rods and did a little research. I ran across an article review that ran a comprehensive comparison on Moog vs Mevotech. The Mevotech is much cheaper. Amazon tie rod ends Mevotech. So I am leaning towards Mevotech and I hope I made the right decision.
 

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Hi guys,

Nobody has been posting about tie rods recently and it has been years since thread posts about tie rods. After searching here, I think it would be better to for me to post. Since I haven't seen recent posts about tie rods, I have been experiencing an issue with mine, I have to replace my inner tie rods and did a little research. I ran across an article review that ran a comprehensive comparison on Moog vs Mevotech. The Mevotech is much cheaper. Amazon tie rod ends Mevotech. So I am leaning towards Mevotech and I hope I made the right decision.
I am also hoping Mevotech front end components are good, I tore down, sand blasted, Por15 coated, installed polyurathane bushings on a set of front control arms, I had a used Moog ball joint and a new Mevotech Supreme ball joint, the Moog was on my MX6gt and I swapped it because it had a larger metal base than normal and would hit the brake disk when the front end lifted, I ground the base down to clear the disk on the 626 but the retaining bolt groove on the ball joint stem sat higher than the Mevotech, I could shim the moog under the control arm to sit even with the Mevotech but that would move the ball joint base closer to the disk. So I ordered another Mevotech supreme ball joint. Both Mevotech ball joints are installed and tack welded to the control arms.
They have grease fittings, retaining clips and look like quality parts so I was comfortable with installing them instead of moogs, also the retaining holes on all my spindles are drilled larger so I can use strut to spindle M12 bolts instead of factory m8, this keeps the ball joint shaft from cupping out the spindle and seems to make the ball joints last for ever (but this has always been with moog ball joints).

Last month the kid with the garage next to mine was complaining about Mevotech parts, he does general mechanic work and had to swap a mevotech press in ball joint 3 times because they kept falling out of the control arm, he finally went with another brand of discount part and it worked fine. He is using economy quality parts from a discount parts store, it's my experience that the same manufacturer brand and part number purchased at two different distributors can have different quality based on the distributors criteria. For example NGK Vgroove plugs from rockauto and other discount sources have cracked (the porcelain) during installation but the ones from Napa or the Dealership have never cracked. (This could also just be a case of old stock vs new but have seen this happen since 2005).
During the conversation with him I looked up the balls joints I installed on rockauto to see what grade they where and see if they are the same as those he's been ordering, I noticed that the moogs where on sale for 4$ each but I waited too long to order some and the sale ended.

So now I have small doubts about my choice of Mevotech ball joints on the 626GT, But unlike tie rods, I can easily swap ball joints without moving any alignment components.

DID YOU KNOW at this very moment moog inner tie rods are on wholesaler closeout sale for 3.13$ or 3.36$
Sometimes it's worth weighing the pro's and cons of the savings.
It's like doing a clutch swap and not changing the engine rear main seal, is saving 16$ worth the possibility of having to remove the transmission again?
You link shows Mevotech inner tie rods are 21.63$ each on amazon.com, rockauto sells moogs for 13-18$ depending on vehicle trim. Mevotechs are 14.27$ each.

Mevotech Inner tie rod part # MEV229 is the same from 88-92 and all trims.
Moog inner tie rod part # EV229 is listed under GT trim, cars built in japan 88-92.
Moog I T R part # EV228 is listed under naturally aspirated, cars built in US 88-92.
However all years and all trims use the same rack thread pitch and outer tie rod thread pitch are the same, therefore either moog part number EV228 or EV229 will fit and work on any trim or year of mx6/626 from 1988 to 1992 sold in north america. Outer tie rods are not the same for Aspec and Bspec 626/mx6.

From what I can tell, you can get 2 Mevotech inner tie rods on amazon for 43.26$ or 2 Moogs on rockauto for 6.72$.
 

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Hi, thanks for your reply. There's a very big difference in the price. I think it is very practical to go with the cheaper ones. It is just like buying an OEM vs a replacement part where both functions are the same but OEM will offer a much longer use lets say 4 years before you replace it compared to a replacement which might take a year or 2 to replace, but it also depends on how you use your car. It is worth it to try a cheaper alternative and it may take a longer life if you take care of how you use your car.
 

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Hi, thanks for your reply. There's a very big difference in the price. I think it is very practical to go with the cheaper ones. It is just like buying an OEM vs a replacement part where both functions are the same but OEM will offer a much longer use lets say 4 years before you replace it compared to a replacement which might take a year or 2 to replace, but it also depends on how you use your car. It is worth it to try a cheaper alternative and it may take a longer life if you take care of how you use your car.
You posted the Mevotechs cost less, at this moment the Moogs cost a lot less and are the same price (regular inventory) at rock auto as the movetechs.
Moog makes a more durable product than mevotech when it comes to outer tie rods and ball joints.
I read the review you linked and don't put too much value on it. It appears to be based on customer reviews the only pertinent info are the cons that state " it wears out very quickly under extreme conditions" this means it's junk and can't hold up with the rest of the parts on the car.

I can not agree with your statement, my excuse was that the first Mevotech was left over from a set I purchased a few years ago from rockauto, I bough the Mevotech instead of the moog only because they came from the same warehouse as the parts in my cart and I was buying some felpro head gaskets (shipping to canada is a base cost of 26$), used one on my 626gt and the other was left over, I ordered a 3rd mevotech from rock auto only because I wanted the height of both bolt grooves to be even (otherwise I have to run different length link kits) and I already welded the Mevotech to the control arm.

I think it's all based on math. In your case and based on your OEM vs replacement part your math isn't adding up.
Lets say a factory dealer inner tie rod is 75$ and last 4 years, you buy two, pay 40$ each for installation and 80$ for an alignment. Total 310$ They last 4 years+.
El cheapo economy inner tie rod cost 10$, you buy two, pay 160$ for install and alignment, total 180$. One tie rod lasts 11months, good news, it's under warranty, you just have to drive to a garage pay them to remove it, have your car towed home, send the inner tie rod for replacement, have the car towed back to the garage, Okay so you decide to ignore the warranty on the 10$ part because it's not worth the added cost or effort. Do you order another economy 10$ inner? Do you trust the inner tie rod on the other side of the car will last a lot longer than the one that just failed before paying for another alignment? Do you change both just to be sure?
At the end of four years the Factory parts cost 150$ + install and alignment 160$ with zero head aches and you didn't have to take care of how you use your car (so you get to enjoy it otherwise just leave it parked and take the bus).
The econo parts over 4 years cost 20$ + install and alignment 160$ + one replacement 10$ + install and alignment 120$ X 2 (turns out the same side failed a 2nd time) total 440$ or if both inners where under warranty 420$. After the first inner tie rod failed you become cautious/worried about it and drive like the assholes in suv's and trucks that drive around sewer drains, pot holes and slow right down for speed bumps. in an effort to save 130$ on parts you've spent 130$ more than factory originals, enjoy driving your car less because of concern and have to drive around rough surfaces like a douchebag and you car is special or it's made of glass.

I am speaking from experience, I have tried discount head gaskets that melt at 500km and cost you an engine, I have tried clevite rod bearings over factory and after a couple years of heavy boosting they wear down, damage the crank and fill the engine and head with copper debris. I have tried beck/arnly and Topline pistons that crack or melt at 21psi boost, I have tried all forms of and types of top end brake pads to avoid the cost of EBC brake pads (100$) only to have them scorch or crack, experience brake fade, ruin the pads, sometimes the disks and save nothing. My garage partner shopped at the local discount parts store and used to laugh at me for spending more one a moog ball joint (80+$ here) than it costs him for a control arm with ball joint (70$) but when his cars alignment was of from changing the control arm I laughed, when the cheap bushings caused more torque steer than the old control arm I laughed and when the ball joint fell out of the control arm I really laughed. Heck I even ran retread summer tires once, I figured I only get a couple months out of new brand name 205/50 r15's why not save some money. They lasted as long as the brand name tire and thankfully never came apart at 155mph, I didn't know how dangerous retreads where at the time and figured if they sell them they must be safe, heck I didn't really know about speed ratings of tires which is wrong, it should be illegal to sell and install tires with a lower speed rating than that of the top speed of the vehicle. Who borrows, rent's or buy a used car and looks at the tires then googles the speed rating letter to see how fast they can drive the car, they just wait for redline in top gear or for the stupid governor to kick in. To govern means to control or to limit and is evil.

When I first started driving these mazdas in 1998 I had constant ball joint failure and paid garages to replace ball joints twice a year, the moogs costed a lot more but lasted a lot longer, from then forward I never ran ball joints without grease fitting and retaining clips.

Personally I don't like doing things twice, I feel when a part fails it's a personal failure, I failed to purchase the proper quality part or managed to purchase a defective part. The only true achievement when working on a car is durability, power increases and handling upgrades mean nothing if they aren't reliable durable.

Things you shouldn't compromise on with the F2/F2T:
Head Gasket- Felpro or Factory
Spark plugs - NGK Vgroove, 6 is standard temp, 7 is colder, never run 5's they are the warmer plugs and the F2 doesn't like them even in the winter.
Wheel bearings- SKF
Brakes - EBC yellow or red stuff and cheap front disks, the pads will kill the disks, swap both when the pads are done.
Ball joints - Moog (hopefully Mevotech).
Clutch- always get a clutch rated for more torque than you plan on making. Never use centerforce clutches.
Headlight Bulbs- Always look at the wattage never the claims on the box, higher running/ bright watts = brighter lights the rest is all bullshit when it comes to conventional bulbs. Factory is 45/65 watts put in a set of 80/100watts no matter the brand and they will be brighter than any 45/65watts bulb no mater the claims.
Engine bearings - factory
Pistons - Factory
Water pump- metal impeller never use one that has a plastic impeller.
Outer tie rods- With grease fittings and 19mm socket size retaining nut, never use 17mm socket size retaining nut they have a tendency to strip over hard bumps.
Link kits- Polyurathane.
Exhaust manifold gaskets- Thin metal factory or factory style never thick cardboard or metal compound (no felpro's).
Exhaust systems- Any time you have the choice, choose v-band clamps, they cost more but are easy to disassemble and never require new gaskets.
Flex pipe- Stainless steel, here any way the metal ones last 2 years at most.
Timing belt, alternator belt, p/s belt- all easy to change on the side of the road, just keep spares in the trunk.
 

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P.S. you need to look up the definition Practical. It is more practical to go with the more durable, better build, more reliable lower maintenance part. It is more economical to go with the cheaper part which could be an impractical choice due to it's lower quality construction and potential replacement costs.
 

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For a higher wattage bulb, based on my experience, I had to change the wiring harness and add a relay to each bulb, because it burned the sockets and the end wiring.

Factory ones are not made for higher wattage bulbs. Unless you go for LED nowadays.
 

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For a higher wattage bulb, based on my experience, I had to change the wiring harness and add a relay to each bulb, because it burned the sockets and the end wiring.

Factory ones are not made for higher wattage bulbs. Unless you go for LED nowadays.
Since 1998 I have been using higher watt headlights on 1988-1992 626/mx6's.
Cars:
1988 626 lx 5speed (rusted and scrapped)
1988 mx6 gt 5speed (still have it)
1988 626 lx auto to gt 5speed (crashed, parted and scrapped)
1988 626 gt 5speed (hit, parted, scrapped)
1988 626 lx auto (still have it)
1989 mx6 gt 5speed (still have it)
1992 mx6 gt 5speed (still have it)
1988 626 gt 5speed (still have it)

For 19 of 22 years I drove these cars and they all ran higher wattage headlights on factory wiring and relays without issues.
I run:
Nokya 80/100watt
Hella 80/100W P29t
And cheap Superstar 80/100watt

All of these lights are Halogen, never had to change a headlight relay on any of them.
The only issue are the cheap Superstar headlights, they don't last very long with awr motor mounts, addco sway bars, poly bushings and links, stiffer control arm bushing and suspension, they can't handle the vibration and bumps. I always carry a spare set in the glove box. I bought 10 sets at Princess auto when they where on sale 4.99$ per set, in 6 years of running them on the 626gt I wave gone through 10 bulbs.
The nokya bulbs cost about 20times the price of the Superstars but still work after 18 years, running with the same vibration mods.

Anyway the headlight fuse is 40A and so is the relay, the wires are 14 and 12 Awg and can handle more than amperage
from 80watts 6.66amps and 100watts 8.33amps. The factory blade connectors are rated for over 40amps.
 
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Since 1998 I have been using higher watt headlights on 1988-1992 626/mx6's.
Cars:
1988 626 lx 5speed (rusted and scrapped)
1988 mx6 gt 5speed (still have it)
1988 626 lx auto to gt 5speed (crashed, parted and scrapped)
1988 626 gt 5speed (hit, parted, scrapped)
1988 626 lx auto (still have it)
1989 mx6 gt 5speed (still have it)
1992 mx6 gt 5speed (still have it)
1988 626 gt 5speed (still have it)

For 19 of 22 years I drove these cars and they all ran higher wattage headlights on factory wiring and relays without issues.
I run:
Nokya 80/100watt
Hella 80/100W P29t
And cheap Superstar 80/100watt

All of these lights are Halogen, never had to change a headlight relay on any of them.
The only issue are the cheap Superstar headlights, they don't last very long with awr motor mounts, addco sway bars, poly bushings and links, stiffer control arm bushing and suspension, they can't handle the vibration and bumps. I always carry a spare set in the glove box. I bought 10 sets at Princess auto when they where on sale 4.99$ per set, in 6 years of running them on the 626gt I wave gone through 10 bulbs.
The nokya bulbs cost about 20times the price of the Superstars but still work after 18 years, running with the same vibration mods.

Anyway the headlight fuse is 40A and so is the relay, the wires are 14 and 12 Awg and can handle more than amperage
from 80watts 6.66amps and 100watts 8.33amps. The factory blade connectors are rated for over 40amps.

Thanks for all the info. Appreciate it. (y)
 
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