Mazda MX-6 Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
134 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Wow it seems that there are a lot of people that are having problems with their VRIS. Anyway here's my problem to add to the list. VRIS #2 isn't working and I don't know about VRIS #1.

#1 is open at idle like it's suppose to be so I'm assuming that it works but I don't know. If I rev the engine though it doesn't move. Does that mean that it's not working either?

#2 is always shut. I did the paper test and it's still there. I was told that this one wouldn't open except when in gear and at WOT. Is this true?

Finally, I checked my solenoids and they appear to be working. I gave them power and blew into them to see which gate opened. Then I took away power and repeated. Everything worked fine. I checked all my vacuum lines and they seem to be fine as well. I also check the actuators (is this right?) and they seem to work. I just put vacuum on them to see if they'd open or not.

The only thing that I can think of is in the wiring. I checked the voltage of the red/blk wire to ground and both were getting 12.5 V so that's working but I'm not sure about the other wire. Isn't it suppose to work as a ground? So shouldn't I be able to measure the Volts using the ground wire instead of using a solid ground. This doesn't work. If this is my problem does anyone know how to fix it? Thanks in advance guys....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,064 Posts
For the paper test did you actually drive it? Can you feel the kick at appropriate RPMs with the ass dyno?

I was having doubts about mine after replacing the rear valve cover gasket, then I read on Probetalk that the VRIS only works when the TPS detects atleast 75% (which I wasn't doing). So you may need to drive it, once warmed up, and floor it a few times to see if the paper falls out.

Tyson
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
Yeah, I've done that already and didn't have any luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
have you checked the adjustment on your TPS? if it isn't adjusted properly, the ecu won't get the required voltage to register WOT and won't activate the VRIS.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
Yeah I checked all of that. Still not working though it's the weirdest thing. I think it's something electrical ie the wiring.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,167 Posts
A few notes re diagnosis of VRIS problems:

- #1 valve is over by the passenger side of the engine, near the U-tube. It's electrical solenoid connector will have a R/BK and a W/DG wire to it.

- #2 valve is by the throttle body side of the engine. It's electrical solenoid connector will have a R/BK and a DB/R wire to it.

The PCM relay supplies +12V (Vbat) to the R/BK wires when the ignition is on. Verify +12V at both solenoids.

When the PCM wants a valve open, it will connect the W/DG (#1) or DB/R (#2) wire to ground through a transistor. If suspicious of wiring, check the resistance between the W/DG wire and pin 3I of the PCM connector and te DB/R wire to pin 3J of the PCM connector. Resistance should be close to zero ohms.

When the engine RPM is greater than 500RPM and the throttle is less than 2.6V above the "closed" voltage, the PCM will activate the #1 solenoid and leave the #2 off, causing the #1 valve to open and the #2 to remain closed. When the throttle voltage rises above 2.6V above the closed voltage, the PCM will then apply the following VRIS strategy:

500-3250: both closed
3250-4250: #1 open, #2 closed
4250-6250: #1 open, #2 open
6250-7500: #1 closed, #2 closed

Unplug the solenoids and check the resistance across the two terminals. Value should be between 12 to 16-ohms at 20oC. If higher, solenoid winding may be open, if lower, solenoid winding may be shorting internally.

If the electrics check so far, check the mechanicals:

- make sure both valves open by hand with no binding or sticking. Some effort may be required, but it should be smooth.
- remove the vacuum line to each of the two servos and apply vacuum to the servos using a hand-pump. The valves should open. If they don't then the respective servo is defective.
- check the vacuum line system to ensure nothing is disconnected. It's a bit of a rat's nest back there so look carefully.
- it may even be necessary to check the vacuum reservoirs and the one-way check valve under the intake manifold for cracks or defects

If everything checks out this far, then the PCM itself may be bad. If the transistor is unable to drive the respective VRIS lines to ground, the valve(s) will not open. This should be a last resort though, as PCMs rarely go bad.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
Thanks Mike, I think it is the PCM or the vacuum resevoir. I've checked everything except the ground wires going to the solenoid. I wasn't sure how to do it and I knew they weren't always grounding. Thanks again, you da man!!!!
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top