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Discussion Starter #1
Car failed the M.O.T on two very stupid things,the handbrake needs adjusted and so do the headlights,unlike the mainland you have to go and get things sorted and then apply for a retest at a redudced cost off £18.50 and within 21 days of the original test,I know I said stupid things but are they easy to do yourself.
MartyB
 

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Handbrake is simply a 7mm allen bo;t hidden behind a cap bolt that is next to the handbrake bracket on the calliper. Let the garage do the headlight while your there, it's usually done free here or no more than a fiver.

Gerry
 

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handbrake

Did they fail it on the handbrake not being adjusted correctly - or not working at all?

You may have seized brake calipers. If you are unlucky (like me) you may even have a seized cable.

If the brake discs have started to go rusty on the surface, then the caliper is not working on that wheel.

Try getting someone to pull the handbrake on and off while you observe the movement of the lever arm. You may find it comes on but refuses to come off again.

ifc
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Its not adjusted right I had the discs and pads replaced a few months ago but they must not have adjusted the handbrake.
MartyB
 

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Bet they didn't wind that bolt back again.
 

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Handbrake adjustment after rear disk/pad replacements are not that difficult. If you feel confident enough to do this just use an allen key to wind the caliper clockwise or anticlosewise. Before you start disengage the hadbrake. A few tweaking is necessary. Another idea...if the pads were changed recently by a garage..they should be able to adjust the handbrakes free of charge...its a 10-15 minute job..

Good luck with your MOT retest
 

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adjusting the bake brakes

The best way to do this is to jack up the back of the car (car in gear) and take the handbrake off completely.

Pull it up three clicks and screw in the adjuster until the brakes just start to come on when you spin the wheel by hand.

I think the Mazda spec is for the handbrake to be fully on at 10 clicks (I will happily stand corrected on this if need be). Disc brakes are not self energising so the handbrake is never going to be particularly effective anyway. When the engine is cold mine will barely hold the car against the transmission even when pulled to 10 clicks.

ifc
 

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Always adjust the normal brakes before doing the handbrake...

As said, jack up the wheel, turn the allen bolt in the rear of the caliper until pads touch the disk, back off 1/3 of a turn.

Handbrake... stoke is 5 - 7 notches when pulled with a force of 98N (10kgf, 22lbf)
wtf &^*$( what a load of twaddle... just make sure the brakes are on between 5-7 notches.. 10 is acceptable in my eyes, as there is a lot of travel.. most other cars have a setting of 3 clicks when the brakes are just working.


John
 

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brake pads

I have replaced the calipers on mine recently and it is not that easy to see the clearance between the disc and the pads.

I also found a seized cable on mine :damnmad: .

ifc
 

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Ian F Chequer said:
it is not that easy to see the clearance between the disc and the pads.
Maybe not, but it is easy to turn the wheel while adjusting the brakes.. you can feel the pads as they grab the disk.

Once both sides are correctly adjusted... then you adjust any slack in the handbrake cable from inside..


John
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Seems I need a new handbrake cable is this a Mazda dealer part or can I source one elsewhere.

Cheers
MartyB
 

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Discussion Starter #13
This must be a good price, middle cable £5.00 +VAT, each side £22.22 + VAT Mazda were looking £19.50+ VAT for middle and £49.50+ VAT for each side all new parts, at this price is it worth changing all parts or just the part I need by the way I'm not sure what needs replacing.

MartyB
 

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Well, for just short of £60 for the lot, it's pretty tempting... considering from Mazda dealers, it's over £140... :(


John
 
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