Mazda MX-6 Forum banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,431 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
MS PNP talking but it seems to be back firing, tach issue new base map?

Ok I had to find an old copy of Megatune so that may be the issue but I thought I would ask.

Its an OBDII PNP MS and Spark it had code 2MSnS-extra format 029q but when I connected it too my laptop to check everything and try starting it I get this:
Controller code version does not match signature in MSnS-extra.ini. Expected MSnS-extra format 025z and it finds the above.
Says table corruption may occur so I stopped and came in.

I assume it just means I need to load a new base map into the laptop that starts with 029q or which ever I should use but I can not seem to find the latest version I should use for the PnP model if its any different.

Anyone else that can get me setup with a good new base map and version of the software if I need to update?

Thanks!

NM it was post two in the update sticky should have checked that. So I have the latest software and manuals it came with a firmware but I am waiting to hear what I should use from the maker so i can have a base map. Any help? Are these PNP's any different from the other base maps or OBDII cause any problems?

Thanks

---UPDATE---
Ok I ran the one that I believe is off Ryan's page. Now the codes match no errors. I also found a thread that helped me get the car to start and stay running. The Wideband read decenly right around 15:1 - 14:1. (To get it running I reset the Idle Air Screw on the TB).

I still have not found where to get a KLZE base map and when I start the car it still dyes after trying to run dies. I got it to stay at about 500-800RPM using my foot never went over 1000. However she is very shakey like she is miss firing etc. Seems JUST like a misfire.

I choose Datalogging and record but I am not sure how to share the information yet. Any help would be great still but slowly making progress.

Also the tach seems to be off as it really does not move till around 900rpms according to MS. Is this due to it being an MX6?

Any help here would be great.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,431 Posts
I only found KLDE ones and they seem to give me issues. I was hoping the ZE ones would get my fuel a lot closer as its running so rich the Wideband just pegs at 10:1

I am also trying to figure out how to use Autotune it seems to have disappeared because mine says its on from what I understand of it but either I am doing it wrong (Most likely) or they have dropped support for it since a lot of information on it seems to be gone.

WTF!!! I just clicked to edit my post and it sent me to a page on K&N Filters. Ok thats going to far on Ad's and making you visit them!!!! It did it again GGGRRRRRRRR!!!
Ok this is Bull [shizzle], I click to save an edit and it sends me to ad's on K&N and now clutches every time. I had to make a new post so don't dock me for double posting. This is completely stupid.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,394 Posts
I fixed it for you. I haven't heard of anyone else with that problem. Must be your browser.

Good luck with the maps though. I think I may have something laying around somewhere. Let me check and I will get back to you.

Edit: Untitled Document

I believe I got that link from Radar so it would be credit to him if they are different from what you have.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,431 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks I am going back out to take a look and play with trying to use autotune.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,431 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Alright I got the car running better just sitting and reving I took it to 4k and it just sits rich according to the wideband but the AF gauge on MS reads around 13:1.... so my narrow bands are off or something else. I wish I could just connect the wideband.

Anyway now to figure out how to work with auto tune and get started then do the slow runs for high rpms.

If you do not mind me picking your brain today that would be great. AIM or something sim?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,602 Posts
a narrow band won't really show anything but full rich until an afr of around 14.

Get a gauge for your wideband
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,431 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i have a gauge thats why i know its pegged at 10:1, it does not have a data out line though
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,480 Posts
Wasnt this covered in your other thread? Make sure your Req_Fuel is setup properly. Then turn off EGO Correction and start tuning the idle. After thats done you can start tuning the low rpms, and move your way up.

Tuning idle is the easiest because you dont have to try to hold your RPM's while you take a reading and make adjustments. After you get the idle tuned, you should have enough practice to start tuning the rest of the map.

Edit- so what your saying is that you have a wideband with gauge but you dont have it hookd up to the MS? MS is running off narrowband still? You dont necessarily have to have the wideband hooked up to the MS, but it is highly recommended, especially if you ever plan to turn EGO correction back on.

Double Edit - Read your other thread again. So you have the wideband but its not hooked up because its a PnP unit? I have the same PnP, you need to clip the narrowband O2 wires, cap them off going to the engine, and then hook up the wideband to the ECU connector on the proper pin. This is the same way I wired in my wideband to the PnP MS from Ryanpzz.

From the looks of this .xls and diagrams you need to clip wires, 18 on C247, and 20 on C248.

96 GT MS PnP Info


From my emails with Ryan, he uses the Right / Rear 02 as the primary, so that is the pin you would want to hook your wideband up to. Pin 18 on plug C247.


After that is finished you need to modify your settings.ini file to set up properly for your wideband unit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,431 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks Stealth so far I had just been tuning by having someone else drive while I got it set.

I think I have it pretty much dialed in so its time for me to do timing which is what I am waiting to do. I figured I would see if you found any of your files for the ZE etc before I did that.

Thank you on The wideband info, now I just need to figure out where to tap into the wideband
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,431 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Double Edit - Read your other thread again. So you have the wideband but its not hooked up because its a PnP unit? I have the same PnP, you need to clip the narrowband O2 wires, cap them off going to the engine, and then hook up the wideband to the ECU connector on the proper pin. This is the same way I wired in my wideband to the PnP MS from Ryanpzz.

From the looks of this .xls and diagrams you need to clip wires, 18 on C247, and 20 on C248.

96 GT MS PnP Info


From my emails with Ryan, he uses the Right / Rear 02 as the primary, so that is the pin you would want to hook your wideband up to. Pin 18 on plug C247.
Ok question then, on C247 18 and 19 are the front o2's and in C248 20 is EGR I think you mean 2 is the righht rear an 3 is the left rear... So I am going to leave one front and one rear connected still to the ecu or call all o2 wires and run only off the wideband? Can I not tap into the wires going into the MS unit itself and just hit it there?

I am confused.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,480 Posts
Once you have a wideband that has an analog out you need to cut wire 18 on C247 going to the engine bay. Hook the Analog wire up to the wire on pin 18 that is going to the ECU. This runs straight through the gutted ECU and connects to the MS on pin 23 of the DB37 connector.

Its recommended to tap in at the ECU plug because Ryan used multi conductor cable to go from those pins, through the gutted ECU and to pin 23 of the MS. You would have more work cutting the sheath open and finding the correct wire to splice into than just connecting it at the ECU but you could theoretically do it either way.

Forget all about the Left / Front 02 sensor. You dont have to clip it if you dont want to. It wont matter because the MS runs off the Right / Rear anyways.


MS can choose to run off Wideband or Narrowband but never both. To go back to narrowband you would have to hook that wire back up that you cut, 18 on C247.


Its really nothing complicated, cut the wire, and hook the WB analog up to it. Modify your .ini file and go. It took me about 10 minutes to swap from NB to WB when I hooked my gauge up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,431 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok this may seem stupid but basically just cut only the right rear C247 18 and not the other one.

Would you happen to be familiar with the Dynojet Wideband? Here is a link, it has a Negative and a Positive and I again assume I connect the Positive. But since I have the chance to ask you why not.

http://www.widebandcommander.com/pdf/WBCInstallGuide.pdf
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,480 Posts
Why would you want something that complicated? It has a whole friggin enclosure box you would have to mount somewhere.

It does however have an analog output, the grey wire on the multifunctional connector. That is the wire that you would hook up to wire 18 on C247 going to the ECU.

You can cut or not cut the other (left / rear) wire. I opted not to cut mine in case of emergency I needed to revert to the NB 02. I still have the NB sensors in my exhaust mani's. I just clipped the right / rear 02 wire and hooked the wideband up to it. I left the left / front hooked up.


That dynojet one you posted has to cost more than a LC-1 or even an AEM UGEO... It is much more complicated, and has way more functions than you need. It is however compatable with MS so if you wanted to go that route it is an option, I just think its more trouble your asking for going with something that complicated.





#group LAMBDA_SENSOR "MS-I Lambda Sensor Type"
#unset NARROW_BAND_EGO "Narrowband Sensor"
.
.
#set DYNOJET_LINEAR "DynoJet Wideband Commander"
.
.

#endgroup

This is how you would want to setup the settings.ini file in car1 directory if you do decide to purchase that unit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,431 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The gray wire o_O I thought that was something else.

Either way it came with the Camaro and you don't hook it up to the ECU when tuning LT1Edit so I swapped them.

I will find the gray then on that diagram.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,431 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
so i am looking at the wiring diagram i have and it talks about 2 output types.
5v and 5ma. so i assumed all the others are set for v so looking at that one its white green and black white negative and white yellow positive.

i take from that to ground white green and black white, then connected white yellow to c247 pin 18. you mentioned a gray wire....

on a side note now i need to see about calibrating this because unlike the glowshift wideband this one claimed i was going lean normal cruising over here this morning....

posted from my g1

Also you keep saying that MS runs off the right rear but C247 18 says front. You said to ignore the left but its just these little details that worry me before I cut the O2 wire to do this. (At the ECU connector that is.)

NM I just did it, I am to much of an OCDing worrier. Works great with the wideband so far *Shrugs* free wideband swap for the win. Now to just get everything set the way I want it with Autotune and Megalog Viewer. Just need to do some searching on the voltage to AF.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,480 Posts
Glad you finally got the WB wired in, now you can start making leaps and bounds. I posted in your other thread, but just to reiterate, the first thing you need to do is turn EGO correction controller step size to 0.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top