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Discussion Starter #382
in order to wire the car once and not having to go back and forth I wanted to decide on gauges now. the ones I want are:


boost
oil pressure
oil temp
A/F ratio
EGT will be sent strait to the ecu.

are there any others that I should have?

Should I get a wideband with no gauge and send it to the ecu also?

I want to keep it simple and If I can get everything in one gauge it would be great!
 

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Discussion Starter #389
Yeah it looks pretty good, I hope it is as good when I get it. One major problem I saw with the ebay feedback was long wait for shipping.

I tried to look at name brand stuff, but couldn't find any all-in-one gauges. I only found 2-in-one.


I have been thinking about where I would put the oil temp sensor. It has to be in a place that has oil flowing. The only place I could think of would be on the banjo bolt for the turbo oil feed line.
It would be nice If I could get a 1/8 npt banjo bolt to fit in the stock location.

I could also get a compression fitting on the oil feed line if I can't find a banjo bolt.

Other than that I will have to get a sandwich adapter but That wouldn't work either because that oil has already gone through the stock oil cooler.
 

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Discussion Starter #390 (Edited)
Chopped the motor mount bracket since I won't need that front mount.



Slapped some black spray paint on it in a feeble attempt to keep it from rusting.
Here is a engine bay pic as it sits right now.


I know there is no timing belt but this was to see what needed to be moved.


For example:

This could be a problem....





I'm thinking of getting a silicone 90* 2.5" and let it rub on that. It should be ok. What do you guys think?
 

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I think the last pictures aren't working.

You can use the factory oil pressure sensor location, I used braided line and an adapter from the block and ran it to a brass T that I put the factory oil pressure sensor and gauge oil pressure sensor on.
Also I managed to install an oil pressure sensor on the oil feed line where it screws together under the throttle body, I rethreaded a brass 3 way 1/8" or 1/4" NTP fitting and found an adapter (possibly the factory turbo oil fitting, pointy end out), put a copper washer on the male part of the oil line (used the one that's on the factory turbo oil fitting) and screwed on the brass fitting, then attached the female end and finally screwed in the oil sending unit. Worked perfectly, cost nothing, just lifted the hood and installed it... Then the cheap oil sending unit started to leak around it's bell shaped seem so I took it all off the car.

Also because the factory line is steel, possibly stainless (never seen one rust), you could measure it and see if you can find swagelok fitting for it, they aren't cheap but they won't leak, the medium pressure fittings are rated to 20 000psi.
 

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Discussion Starter #392
i think the last pictures aren't working.
fixed :)
you can use the factory oil pressure sensor location,
Yes for pressure, but not for temp. I need flowing oil for temp
also i managed to install an oil pressure sensor on the oil feed line where it screws together under the throttle body,
thought of this also, big help letting me know what to buy. not the most accurate for the temp sensor though since it has all that metal line to cool off before it gets there. (may or may not be a big difference in temp)
also because the factory line is steel, possibly stainless (never seen one rust), you could measure it and see if you can find swagelok fitting for it, they aren't cheap but they won't leak, the medium pressure fittings are rated to 20 000psi.
this is what I think I will do. I know I could use compression fittings, but good name brands are good to know.

I'm going to install it right after it leaves the block on the oil feed line.

As for the oil pressure sender I'm going to use the stock location with a T for the stock dummy light.
 

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Is the belt tight? If so, why not cut the adjustment off and weld it near there to clear up some space.

I think the silicone will rub through with the vibration.
 

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sort of tight, not much more to to though, I've also thought of rigging it with only one support and completely removing the other.

I would like something that is reversible, just in case.
Cutting the turbo flange to turn it a bit is an option too...

Could you just turn the turbo around? That might put the compressor housing in jeopardy with the frame or steering column or something else though. Plus you'd have to go up and over the turbo to go back for the FMIC.
 

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Back to your oil temp sensor, why not use the sandwich adapter, doesn't matter if it's after the oil cooler, actually be better, you wouldn't measure IAT's before the intercooler, this way you can monitor the oil temp the engine is getting, if for any reason the oil temp before the cooler goes up it will be higher after the cooler as well, just get a healthy base oil temp from idling and cruising and go from there. also it allows you to run both sensors in 1 place.
The oil leaves the oil pump and goes straight to the oil filter through the threaded tube it screws onto. The banjo fitting for the turbo and everywhere else oil goes is after the cooler. The only place you could possibly monitor oil temp before the cooler and after the pump is right at the pump, there is an allen key bolt, the oil passes through the pump and turns hard right on it's way into the block, the allen key bolt is inline with the pump feed, you may be able to put the sensor there without impeding oil flow.

Looking at the racing depo info they call it oil water temp sensor.
The US site has installation instructions, worse instruction ever.

Heck look at the Ebay add picture:


-Boost sensor
-Power wire (volts and gauge power)
-Oil pressure wire (sensor next to it)
-Water temp sensor (sensor in ziplock)

If you really want oil temp without the sandwich plate you could take temp reading from the oil pan like the Probes or pull the banjo bolt and measure the center hole, (if there is enough metal to and size to drill it out) and through the head, have 1/8" NTP bung welded to the bolt head and screw in the sensor. oil would flow around the sensor and into the banjo fitting.
 

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Discussion Starter #397
Cutting the turbo flange to turn it a bit is an option too...

Could you just turn the turbo around? That might put the compressor housing in jeopardy with the frame or steering column or something else though. Plus you'd have to go up and over the turbo to go back for the FMIC.
Cut the flange? I might as well get another custom manifold.

There is no way to easily turn this turbo around, all the pipes would have to be moved and re-welded. The piping issue would be much worse for the exhaust, intake and charge piping.
 

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Discussion Starter #399
without that bracket it fits just fine. This is a 2.5" to 3" coupler I'll probably use a 2.5" filter.


This pipe makes it go way up high. I'll have to put a 90° on it to get it to come back down. I don't really want to cut It but I might end up doing it. No that is not where the BOV is going; that is my only 2.5" pipe and I was checking the fit next to the radiator looks like there is plenty of room!

from a different angle


It looks like there is plenty of room on the left side of the radiator also.


both top and bottom coolant pipes are on the opposite side from where I need them. Any problems with flow if I just rig it up with random pipes and hoses?


I think I should get one of those pipes that have a coolant cap on them so I can fully fill my system.

I feel like getting an aluminum radiator just so I can move the pipes. these plastic top ones usually leak anyways don't they?
 

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Discussion Starter #400 (Edited)
Installed the air filter 3" exhaust pipe with a 3" to 2.5" silicone coupler

Battery relocation
Bottom cable is what I'm installing. For those that may be interested: the best place to get high amperage cable by the foot for cheap are from welding places.

I drilled the hole through the firewall. I want to put a grommet in it but I want one with a Boot. Those are expensive though they cost like 15 bucks.

 
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