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How much of this would apply to putting an F2T in a Miata?
 

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the same concept as this guy putting the fe3 into his miata since its the same mounts and all.
Solomiata : Interchange : FE3 motor
enjoy
All I noticed of mounts were that they were heavily modified Miata mounts. Don't know if that means he could use the stock Miata chasis locations or not.

Also, they used the B2200 bell with Miata transmission. B2200 pilot in a NA 626 flywheel. No mention of concern with the B2200 bell being 1/2" longer than the Miata bell, unsure if the B2200 pilot was possibly deeper making up some of this distance.
 

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Discussion Starter #126 (Edited)
Hey guys sorry about the no updates but there hasn't been much to talk about. I went on vacation durring Christmas break too!

Never the less I haven't gave up and don't plan on it.

Just to update
The Flange thread for the exhaust manny died. I ended up buying one off of jgs turbo.
I got stuck while trying to make engine mounts because my fab skills are lacking. Anyone know how to keep the stuff strait while drilling holes. I have access to a drill press but I couldn't keep it strait. I guess I'll just make it again but drill the holes while I can still lay it flat.

I had my engine and transmission on the engine stand (bad idea) and I thought I'll just be careful not to push it in a weird way or anything so that it doesn't fall. well.. i wasn't thinking, i pushed it and it fell (anyone suprised?) I bent the tip of the transmission where it connects to the drive shaft. :( o-well its ok since I had another housing that I could switch out. luckly it wasn't the center housing or that would have called for a rebuild!

I'm uploading pictures right now for you guys to ga ga at.

Next step is to get the valve cover powder coated and fab up the engine mounts.

here are the pictures:
Bent rear housing

"New" rear housing

Engine with non-turbo MX6 Grip Force F1 (Ebay) 6 puck and fidanza flywheel

you can see my "fab skillz" (or lack there of) on the distributor block off plate.
The thermo housing was tig welded with a harbor frieght welder by a friend. After it was welded there was a bunch of tiny holes so i cleaned it up and JB welded it. I don't know if it was the welder, my friend or the setting that made the weld so bad. We had trouble getting the heat right.
 

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Discussion Starter #128 (Edited)
I currently have the transmission all put back together but not bolted to the engine.

The problem I'm having is that the b2200 starter doesn't match the flywheel i have :confused: I don't know why i thought they were the same. any help on this? Any one have a starter they arn't using that they don't mind sending my way?

I can't find my clutch fork for the b2200. I think from the beginning I might have not had one when i got it.
 

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stock starter? or spacer plate?

I currently have the transmission all put back together but not bolted to the engine.

The problem I'm having is that the b2200 starter doesn't match the flywheel i have :confused: I don't know why i thought they were the same. any help on this? Any one have a starter they arn't using that they don't mind sending my way?

I can't find my clutch fork for the b2200. I think from the beginning I might have not had one when i got it.
cant you run your stock starter off the F2? being as they both mount in the same place i wouldn't imagine that you couldn't use the FWD starter... just guessing though. i was running into the same problem on my FE3 but the stock F2t starter lined up with the kia sportage flywheel and worked just fine for the compression test and to crank the engine... but then again you're running an aftermarket flywheel, you might have to build a spacer plate between the block and the flywheel like these guys did, but that's just my 2 cents, im not 100% on that though.
and yes i know the link is for a miata with a KL engine not an FE but im using it for an example.
Joyful Noise Racing
 

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Discussion Starter #131
I can't find my old mx-6 starter, but I have a friend that might let me have one to try out. Its all iced right now here in texas so everything closes because people don't know how to drive. I was hoping to go to the junk yard too. At least im off of school.
 

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Discussion Starter #132
Here are some pictures of my mounts. None of them are connected to the frame yet they are just sitting there.


What do you guys think of this location? /\ Do you think that the frame will be strong enough to support the engine?



since they are made in such weird shapes I can't get them to stand strait up on the drill press. So is super hard to get the holes in the right place.

So i figured that I would just drill it while its still just a piece of angle Iron, that way it will lay flat on the drill press and I can probably clamp it.
 

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since they are made in such weird shapes I can't get them to stand strait up on the drill press. So is super hard to get the holes in the right place.

So i figured that I would just drill it while its still just a piece of angle Iron, that way it will lay flat on the drill press and I can probably clamp it.
use a drill press vise, that's what we used in my machine shop classes at BSU
they look like this:http://lh6.ggpht.com/_A3InTlVHkys/SCwZ4jnn_RI/AAAAAAAAAC8/5HnD1O8WX8M/vz011.jpg
and then you just have to use a dial indicator and dial it to where the surfaced being worked on is flat. also there are shim plates that you could buy to raise it up if the vise jaws are taller than your working material. they look like this:http://www.finewoodworking.com/assets/uploads/posts/28400/BenchViseBlog_lg.jpg but obviously you would need the metal ones and they come in all different heights too so depending on your material size would dictate what shim to use.

as for the mounting position yes the frame is strong enough for it but i would mount them both to the frame rails or both to the X member so then its not putting stress on your bolts from the connection from the frame to the crossmember. the torque and pressure would be distributed evenly between both frame rails. or it could just be dependent on the X member all together.
either way yes both of those ways could handle the power/ weight just fine.

looking good though keep it up
 

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true i forgot about the power steering rack... damn.. but yes i would put them both on the frame rails. but that's just me. so then that way you will also have access to the bottom of your engine if you need to. because then all you would have to do is drop the x member and the oil pan and everything would be right there and no worries about having to support your engine since it's still mounted solid...
 

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My only concern is that with the mount point sticking so far out from the frame, there will be a lot of strain on its weld point on the frame during accel/decel.
 

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I think what I'll do is weld a plate on it to distribute the weight a little more evenly on the body.
Either some wings or diagonals off the sides should do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #139
Not much but a small update.
You think they packed it well enough? I would have sent it in an envelope. :lol:



I didn't realize that it wouldn't have space for the spark plugs to come out. I'm going to have to use some kind of saw to cut it. may be a jig? My friend has a plasma cutter but I don't know if it would be good for something this thick.
 

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I'd contact them and see what's up with that.

When spending $75 on whatever on a flange it should be right!
 
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