Actually, the Apex seals are more like piston rings and valve seals as coolant doesn't pass them. They maintain compression though, so your right there.Nah, it's a completely custom car.
Carnage - what I meant was, other than what is written in a thread on a forum, did you look into it after wards to confirm. That guy only believes IIRC. I'll look into it tonight.
Brian - The apex seals are the equivalent to a head gasket. When one goes, you lose compression and the motor is "blown". It's just that if you can't do it yourself, finding someone to rebuild an engine is complicated. When mine blows, I'll be rebuilding it myself. If it fails, then I'll send it out to a shop and get a bridge port done at the same time.
Nah, didn't see that. Link???Did you guys see that 87 RX7 on Passtime last night. Blew the motor or the tranny on the line! ahaha... He was bouncing it off the rev limiter and it jerked and jusy stopped dead.
Hey joey... could you post a video of your buddy's 20b?
I guess you're right as well. It's kinda hard to really say because the engines are so different. It kinda acts as both You know, those 3 parts all together do the same job as the 40+ in a piston engine.. :lol:Actually, the Apex seals are more like piston rings and valve seals as coolant doesn't pass them. They maintain compression though, so your right there.
This is interesting. If I end up needing a shop rebuild, and I'm still in eastern Canada, I may just drive it out there. :tup:Engine rebuilding around Ontario is not hard. Scarborough Mazda and Dave Wood both have Master rotary mechanics on site and build quite a few racecar motors a year. Besides that, there are plenty more worth mention. Just thought I'd add that in.
kiesel used to have a sick FD rx7
Dont let it worry you!I have always liked the look of the RX7 with the lights down, when the lights are up, i find it kinda fugly. But i'd still own one.
What worries me about rotary is APEX seals!
One issue with the rotary that most people neglect is the need to tune it , just adding an exhaust and intake can make such a drastic difference in the volume of air a rotory can injest that a good re-tune is manditory.Well, i guess its all about how you drive your car. My bro had a RX7 with a turbo 2 motor, and many upgrades and in no time his seals went.. But when i think about it, i know my bro would have been driving it hard.. But when i looked into them, i saw that apex seals have been issues in many cases.. so i figured it was a problem that is common.
I knew the gist of it, Never knew the "why" on the apex seals running more smoothly though! Thanks for that info!!!!!!All this discussion about rotary reliability has forced me to chime in again. Rotary engines see maximum efficiency at roughly 5,000rpm. That's the point a which you get optimal performance and fuel economy. It's also around this point that seals wear less. That's why rotary engines that are used are better then ones driven by people without a clue.
So, why does the engine last longer at higher rpm? Because the rotors tumble. The actual speed at which a rotor moves is roughly 1/3 the engines actual rpm. At low rpm, the rotors wobble, forcing excessive wear on the seals. At high rpm they go into more of a spin motion as the outward forces acting on them force them against the walls of the rotor housing more consistently like a piston ring would be.
Hope that helps to clarify. It's one thing to say that the do last longer when driven hard versus actually knowing why.