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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's A 1994 mx6 ls with the usdm 2.5 v6, I bought it 2 years ago and the clutch stuck to the floor twice on the 2 hour drive home, and to unstick it you would just pull it back up with your foot and it was only sticking halfway down. Now when summer came it never stuck again but it did a few more times that winter/fall, now that its getting really cold again it's sticking more then ever it's also sticking as far as it goes to the floor almost every other time. SO I figured it's the master cylinder, so one day I popped the hood to check the fluid it was full but was like a brownish color but I unscrewed it seemed fine screwed it back on and right after I drove after I did that it didn't stick at all that day except for a few times but then it slowely started coming back to getting worse.

My dads a certified ford tech so he knows the probes really well from back in the day he said before buying a new master cylinder to get all the old nasty fluid out with something like a turkey baster, replenish with new untarnished hydrolic fluid and see if that does the trick.

Any help or thoughts would be appreciated thank you, and FYI i would nearly gurantee it's not the clutch itself because it seems like when it's cold it aggitates it alot more and messing with the master cylinder basically prooved to help it.
 

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When the peddle stays on the floor, I assume the clutch remains disengaged and you have no drive ?

Also not too sure if you are confusing the brake master cylinder with the clutch master cylinder. Yes the clutch uses the fluid from the brake master cyl res, but it has its own master cylinder attached to the bulkhead and clutch peddle. You will see a black pipe running from the side of the res to the master cylinder, then from there along a metal pipe to the slave cyl on the side of the gearbox to activate the clutch release arm.

You can bleed the system at the slave cyl of any air etc, and ensure the clutch section is full of fluid.
 

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i suggest checking your slave first. see if you can move the rubber boot on it peek to see if there's any fluid leaking out? if that's ok, check the master to see if you have fluid leaking onto your carpet on the inside. if both are fine, do the fluid flush and make sure no air is in there. by your symptoms and with the weather getting colder, wouldn't be surprised if the problem were just dirty fluid or air in the system.

if you happen to have to replace the slave, it's a really simple procedure. the master cylinder is also pretty simple, but you'll need a buddy to help, preferably someone with really small hands :p (like me) if you'd like, i can take pics, let us know how it goes with the bleeding
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
When the peddle stays on the floor, I assume the clutch remains disengaged and you have no drive ?

Also not too sure if you are confusing the brake master cylinder with the clutch master cylinder. Yes the clutch uses the fluid from the brake master cyl res, but it has its own master cylinder attached to the bulkhead and clutch peddle. You will see a black pipe running from the side of the res to the master cylinder, then from there along a metal pipe to the slave cyl on the side of the gearbox to activate the clutch release arm.

You can bleed the system at the slave cyl of any air etc, and ensure the clutch section is full of fluid.
Yeah no drive, tommorow will check 4 leaks then bleed it
 

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well if there is no drive, one of the cyls is sticking open. its possible to dimaantle and clean them, but if they are cheap or free from a breakers, just swap em.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
well if there is no drive, one of the cyls is sticking open. its possible to dimaantle and clean them, but if they are cheap or free from a breakers, just swap em.
Actually I haven't been driving the car but for me when it wasn't horrible, as me and my dad switched cars for the day he just got home and now even down the whole way it's like the clutch is out when its actually down to the floor and you can't switch gears, it's not even driveable my dad said just getting home from a couple miles was a nightmare, I really think it's the fluid do these things usually bleed easily?
 

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on the slave cyl, above where the hard lilne goes in, you will see the bleed nipple. you will need someone to help with depressing the peddle and bringing it back up, whilst you lock of the nipple, and continue, just like bleeding brakes. Top up the brake fluid res.
 

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Similar thing happened to my 94 LS a couple of weeks ago. I tried bleeding the system at the slave cylinder but only got fluid on the first pump (dark dirty 1994 fluid). None after that so I assumed it was the master cylinder. Replaced it and bleed the system over and over. Never could get a "good" pedal. Replaced the slave cylinder and all is well again. Slave cylinder is much easier to get to replace than the master cylinder. The master cylinder has one bolt inside the car (what were they thinking!) that's a real pain to reach. If bleeding doesn't fix the problem, I'd start with the slave cylinder. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
UPDATE: bled the system for 45 minutes today and got out all the nasty fluid, the pedal is alot BETTER and fluid is full (before it was dead stuck to the floor no matter what u did) now at least when you pump up the clutch you have a pedal for that moment for pulling out or shifting but its nowhere near fixed, the master or the slave is not leaking and I don't know which one to replace fearing i'd replace the master and it's the slave and vice versa any advice?
 

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i suggest replacing the slave first. if that doesn't fix it, then do the master

those parts aren't very expensive, especially since they will either make your car driveable or not. i think the slave is like 45 bucks and the master is around 60 or so at a local auto supply store. I actually have an extra slave cylinder that I bought and never installed since I got another mx6.

EDIT: at rockauto, a slave cylinder will run you around 20 bucks plus some shipping. if you want to buy mine, i'm sure we can work out a deal, go ahead and pm me

UPDATE: bled the system for 45 minutes today and got out all the nasty fluid, the pedal is alot BETTER and fluid is full (before it was dead stuck to the floor no matter what u did) now at least when you pump up the clutch you have a pedal for that moment for pulling out or shifting but its nowhere near fixed, the master or the slave is not leaking and I don't know which one to replace fearing i'd replace the master and it's the slave and vice versa any advice?
 

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I agree. If no leaks (be sure to carefully check the flexible hose between the master and slave cylinder) are evident I'd replace the slave first (cheaper, easier, seems to fail more often).
 

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^ That would be the flexible hose between the brake fluid res and the MASTER CLUTCH cylinder. The slave is bolted to the gearbox.
 

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yep, its the hose i just got mine fixed, $55 nothing to worry about
 

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Not the short hose between the master cylinder and the brake reservoir. From the master cylinder the fluid flows through a metal line and where it leaves the fender it changes to a flexible rubber hose and then changes back to a metal line before reaching the slave cylinder. It has to have a flexible line to allow for the engine rocking. That short flexible line will sometimes rupture/leak, but you would notice the brake reservoir level going down over time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Update

Yesterday morning I went ahead and ordered a new slave cylinder off ebay. I'm broke until next weeks payday the total came to $28.28 with shipping and luckily I had just enough with a few cents to spare. But later i'm going to check out that hose just to make sure, and by the way on EBAY they have a KILLER DEAL going on a new clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder for $39.00 + $8.00 First Class USPS shipping (wish I would of had enough in my account to get that combo so that way i'd be set, but I have a hunch it's the slave and i'm hoping for certain it is.) The guy is shipping it today with a shipping time of 2-3 days so should recieve it monday or tuesday or hopefully sooner maybe!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Got it replaced the slave cylinder bled and bled and bled and still sticks, went to bleed at the master and dosent even squirt fluid out like prooving theres no pressure at the master, so i guess found out its the master the hard way unfotunately at a 30 dollar and 2 hours of labor cost... bleh
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hey guys it IS definately the master cylinder, while I was looking for the master cylinder bolt under the dash I pushed the clutch pedal in and hydrolic fluid squirted out of the cylinder connected to the clutch pedal!

But the problem is I cannot find this bolt/nut for my life, I even tried taking out the clutch safety start sensor (the thing that detects the clutch is depressed so it will let yoy start it) which you take the 2 10mm bolts off which I did as suggested in one of the threads and still had trouble just seeing it, does anyone have a more accurate description of where the bolt is or maybe a picture with using paint to circle where exactly it's location is or a how-to? :confused:
 

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You have to go by feel when you're looking for that nut. There's some kind of bracket that is attached to the firewall, and the nut is right above it. If you look at the orientation of the mc on the other side of the firewall, you can see where this nut is supposed to be.
 

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i dont know if someone sed this already becuz im too lazy 2 read thru it all but i had something similar happen to me. Turns out my hose busted n was causing a leak. Just a thought. Might want to check that out.
 
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