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Discussion Starter #1
ever since its been getting warmer the Temp. needle keeps rising everytime i stop my car(stop light, parked, ect.)
my first thought was the thermostat, but i put a new one in(the old one wasn't bad at all) and the needle still rises, now i'm thinking it might be the fans but i'm not sure and i don't want to go spending alot of money on the wrong part

the Car is a 93 LS V6

thanx
DP
 

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You can check to see if the fans are coming on while it's getting hot...if they are not, that's one problem. A clogged radiator is another possibility. Worst case is a bad water pump, head gasket or cracked head. But first you should check for the obvious (fan operation, clogged radiator).

Tyson
 

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Smot-Poker
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i had that

I had that. When I was in motion the car seemed to cool down a little also.. It turned out to be my water pump. It was in the winter and my heater was working very intermitantly as well... check the water pump
 

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Straight from the still under construction FAQ...

Q. My car tends to start overheating when it’s stopped, how can I fix this?

A. Some things to check if your car starts to overheat while it’s stopped are as follows:

-Check your coolant level.
-Make sure you have the correct coolant/water ratio 50/50 (Holds about 7.9 Quarts)
-Flush the coolant
-Check if the fan comes on when stopped (only 1, the other one if when the AC is on full blast) if it doesn’t go on, check your fan relay and wiring. Possible faulty fan.
-Replace your thermostat
-Add a bottle of Redline Water Wetter when refilling coolant lowers the temperature of the coolant
-Check for coolant leaks
-Check coolant hose/lines, make sure they're not ruptured
-Only after doing the above, I would suggest you look into the water pump and pulley and see if they need replacing.
-If you're going to get the water pump done, and haven't done your time belt yet, get the time belt and pulley and get it all done in one shot
 
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Discussion Starter #5
thanx for the help, i think i might need a new water pump, cause the fans seem to be working fine, how much is this going to cost me(the pump)?


DP
 

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have fun pulling your engine...LOL

if you have a bad head gasket, you might see white smoke from the tailpipe.
 

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yng lex wit a 6 said:
If it was the water pump the needle would rise all the way to red so i dont think that is the problem... my 2 cents
actually some of the fins can just break off... making the pump insufficient to cool the engine...

have you ever looked at a water pump before?
 
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Discussion Starter #9
I am having the same problems....temp hand goes to the red H after only a few minutes of driving...and then w/in a couple of minutes will go back down to normal....have changed the thermostat and added coolant.....water pump next? anyone know the cost of that job?
 

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Hi there I drive a 95 Mazda MX6 with 108000 on the clock... I've noticed as of late that when I stop I hear a fierce boiling noise coming from what I think is the coolant resivoir... The other day the car ran completely dry but I noticed before it actually went to the half of the temperature gauge. Any suggestions?
 

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have fun pulling your engine...LOL

if you have a bad head gasket, you might see white smoke from the tailpipe.
Might.

If you're always having to add coolant, like its boiling off into the overflow something is wrong.

Depending on how and where it breaks headgaskets going bad shows up as either:

-Coolant mixing with oil, white deposits under fill cap, makes oil foamy
-Oil mixing with coolant, usually shows up as dirty coolant in overflow
-Exhaust gases entering water jacket, shows as more then usual coolant exiting into overflow leaving engine low on coolant or completely empty.

And not so important oil leaking down side of engine. If coolant levels stay fine, as long as leak isn't bad it can wait to be repaired.

You may see white smoke coming from the exhaust for more reasons then burning coolant. And it usually takes a while for it to really blow coolant into the cylinder(s). It usually the exhaust escaping into the coolant system. For example my car blows a little white, and since my coolant levels stay fine I'm sure it's because the lack of a catcon, as there is a slight smell of unburnt fuel. Injectors have not been checked, my maf is a little off, and compression is not the best. So a little extra fuel, and slight bit of oil = white smoke.

Edit: Just because alot of coolant is exiting into overflow doesn't mean bad headgasket(s). Could be a bad pressure cap, or even a cracked hose(overflow hose). As it would let coolant escape, but when it cools a crack would let air in instead. As would a bad seal on the pressure cap.
 

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Hi there I drive a 95 Mazda MX6 with 108000 on the clock... I've noticed as of late that when I stop I hear a fierce boiling noise coming from what I think is the coolant resivoir... The other day the car ran completely dry but I noticed before it actually went to the half of the temperature gauge. Any suggestions?
Read my above post. I had the same problem and of course the gaskets were bad, but I repaired everything else before I knew for sure. A rad shop can pressure test your cap, and do a head leak test which checks for exhaust gases in your coolant. But before you do that check your overflow hose, pressure cap seal, and replace your thermostat for the heck of it. Check your waterpump if you have the patience of being able to work with zero room (ok, there might be a few mm's to work with haha good luck).

If you do indeed have bad headgaskets ebay gasket sets are cheap, but I would recommend using fel-pro headgaskets and use the ebay ones for everything else. You should not have to pull your motor, but if you are doing it yourself plan at least 2 full weekends or more if its your first time(motor in). Shops will charge $600-$1400 depending on who you go to. And remember if you do it yourself get the heads pressure tested for cracks, and milled flat if you think they may be a little warped (you can check yourself using an aluminum straight edge and feeler gauges). The block is alot harder to check incar but worth a try. cracks would be obvious on the block, but not so much on the heads. Also when the heads are out it's best to reseat the valves, and maybe even replace the valve guides. Gasket kits also come with new valve seals.


But before all that maybe check compression ratios and the general condition of the engine. If alot of things are iffy maybe look into getting a rebuilt or low km de. Heat damage from driving with low/no coolant seems to make the problem alot worse then just headgaskets.

Your gauge might not go into red because I found that when the coolant level was low, the air inside the engine wasn't enough to show a proper reading as the sensor is right where any air bubbles would end up going first.
 
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