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Discussion Starter #102
I hope that welding job holds up bro...that one weld attaching the 90 to the rad looks horrible.
I know. The shop who did it didn't have the required equipment to test it for leaks and for pressure, albeit how low it is in the cooling system.

I told the owner that if it leaks, he's refunding me. If it weren't for the hefty price tag of an aluminum-capable TIG welder, I'd have done this all myself. I know I could MIG weld it, but my MIG welder does not support aluminum welding and MIG welds are generally sloppy for aluminum.


Working on a clients car today (probably the last one of 2012) and will resume work on the FD later this evening or tomorrow.
 

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i think the welds are fine.. unless you hit a speed bump wrong it should be fine. the rad outlet looks really close to the ground
 

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Discussion Starter #104
i think the welds are fine.. unless you hit a speed bump wrong it should be fine. the rad outlet looks really close to the ground
It only looks that way because of how I took the picture. It actually sits higher than the skid plates.

As for the welds, yes, they will probably work, I'm just not happy about how sloppy the work is. I could have saved $100 and done it myself to be this ugly.
 

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Discussion Starter #106 (Edited)
Thanks man! Here is the engine bay this morning after having put on a few more parts.

I got my custom radiator hoses in, painted the mounting brackets for the intercooler, got the intercooler couplers and the "in" pipe on and I painted my strut bar blue to match rather than having it random gold :)



Now all that's left is getting the clamps on, fitting my temperature gauge and filling/burping the coolant system and getting that last pipe in there. Shouldn't be too long since I'll be making a steel pipe with HKS SSQV bOV flange while I wait for the aluminum one to be built. (I hate not being able to weld aluminum with my machine)


In other news, I started a small project with my front bumper to make match the front of the car a little better!

Also,I am thinking about plasti-dipping the car camo green where there won't be any carbon fiber. I did a quick photo shop and I think it looks pretty good and pretty "battle" ready, what do y'all think?

 

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Discussion Starter #107 (Edited)
So I got around to finding a pipe I could use until I'm sure about how I'm going to do it (aluminum or Steel). Basically, this is how it's going to sit as a finished project, however some details still irk me, and I would like to get your opinion on it. First, the BOV, where to put it? On the bottom side of the left side pipe (viewed from the front) like this (not visible):



or on the side of the right hand pipe, like so:



Also, once the final pipe is bent and welded together, should I leave them polished aluminum or paint them trim black along with the upper intake manifold, air intake pipes and diversion panels?

Good news followed today as I found someone to do my TIG aluminum welding for very cheap and the guy worked in a fabrication shop so the results should be better than the first place I went to.
 

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Discussion Starter #108
Well, since I'm not getting any responses or opinions, I'll just skip to the next project.

Since I am now at a halt waiting for the final parts to arrive, I decided to take care of my front bumper, using THIS THREAD as a reference, since it has been bugging me for a while now.

I started by laying down 2 layers of flat black base coat to cover up any stains and to have a dark base color.


Then I laid out the cheese cloth/tool chest lining and started spraying the stainless steel silverI was using for the "texture".


This was a tricky part since I wasn't doing it on a flat surface like a hood, but I managed to make it work. Here's how it looked after just the stainless steel texture.






I did a quick test fit on the car to see how it looked at that point.




It seemed a little light to me,so I decided to add a layer of VHT Nite Shades before going through with the clear. this helped give it a richer,darker look and added to the texture effect.


Then I started clear coating it. I am going to do a total of 5-6 layers so I can get a nice wet sand and polish done after wards. For now, this is with 3 layers.


And a quick test fit on the car to see where we stand.




I'm liking what I see.


That's it for now, I will keep this thread going as much as I can during the holidays, but chances are it won't be much. Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #111
Ahh Geezus... That is looking so damn nice.
That's awesome...do the whole car in that instead of the camo!
Thanks guys. It turned out a lot better than I thought it would. Quite proud of my self for a first try. I actually have 2 people who want me to do this on their cars in my area haha. I'll see what happens and I might do this instead of the Camo green. Would definitely stand out in crowd or at a meet. :)
 

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I remember reading somewhere that the Bugatti has CF that imitates that.... but they match all the lines of carbon to and from each panel so it looks flowy...

Try it!

Sent from my GT-I9000 using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #114 (Edited)
Dude that's awesome! Loving the engine bay progress and the paint work!
I remember reading somewhere that the Bugatti has CF that imitates that.... but they match all the lines of carbon to and from each panel so it looks flowy...

Try it!
Thanks guys. I don't have too much experience, but this first attempt came out nice I just got myself a paint gun for Christmas to go with my new air compressor and so I may do a few test runs on some spare parts like hoods and tail lights just to get a feel and see what I can pull off.

This also gave me an idea to do my tail lights. I'll only leave the sections where the lights show through and the rest will be carbon paint.


Side note: Got the water temp gauge in and all the clamps are now in place. Haven't done much work as I'm waiting on a few parts to keep moving forward and I've been "renovating" my "workshop" a little bit.

EDIT - pics of the "workshop"

The entrance and hallway


As soon as I come in I have a rack where I put my cans of paint and a few electric tools. Got my jacks on the floor.


A few feet further there's another rack where I set up my radio (controls workshop, detailing studio and basement audio), air tools and a few small RX-7 parts. Also got me a sink to cool off metal, wash my hands and other things.


Seeing that this is a small place, I didn't go nuts to make a work bench. Just big enough to work on. I set up a vise. Underneath is the MIG welder and a few bins with more car parts.


The workshop is home to the buildings electric panels and hot water tanks, so that explains that. lol. This is the new air compressor I got just before Christmas.


And this is the space I have to actually work in. I'll be setting up a folding table or 2 Sawhorses so I can rest parts like bumpers and hoods.


I'll be getting better/more lighting in there soon.

I know it's not much and it's nothing fancy, but considering I'm in a town house in Canada's equivalent of Los Angeles, and the rent I pay, I'd say it's a pretty decent start. :D I also figured I'd show you guys where I'm going to be building a few parts that may or may not end up floating around in the hands of fellow MX-6 members. ;)

Here is a teaser of one of the parts I'm working on:




New M-Edition style design. It still has all red plastic, but I drew some inspiration from the later model Ford Probe GT tails with a darkened outline. I airbrush in a dark tint all the way around the light.

Please note that the one in the image is a beta test and I was testing out a specific clear coat, which is why it made that weird bubbling in the one corner.
 

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Love the CF work :tup:

For the BOV, I would put it on the pipe before the GReddy elbow, that's where I'm gonna put mine when I install the M2 large SMIC.
 

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Hey man nice work on that bumper! It looks wicked dude.

Now the BOV, I would recommend putting it on the throttle body side. Performance and race car guys say the BOV should be within 11inches from the TB. Mainly because of response. The BOV will open and close faster and actually seal better.
 

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Discussion Starter #119
January 21st, 2013 - Update.

Work has been quite busy the last few weeks for having scored a huge contract. This has basically left me at a stand point on the car. However, I have a bit more time now and will get some work done on the car today.

Since the last update, I finally wired my water temp gauge in, got my BOV bung welded in the right place and the V-mount is complete. Just need to put in the fluids. I finally got the A/C pump and lines out. I got myself a new exhaust as well. Since I was already running a straight down-pipe and mid-pipe, I went with a full free-flow axle-back Kakimoto exhaust (Found a killer deal on it!) I cleaned and polished off the tip and canister, and I painted the piping with flat black ceramic flame-proof coating before putting it on the car. :)

















Today, I'm going to get a bit more work done. I'm going to clean out the interior of the car (lots of glass from the broken back-glass and sound deadening left that hasn't been cleaned out.) Going to install the GT-wing on the carbon fiber hatch. Going to wet sand and polish the front bumper and re-install that as well.

Oh yeah, I also basically changed the whole plan for my brakes. Instead of DBA street slots, I am going with PowerSlot race slotted discs. The Hawk HT-10's have been traded for Hawk DTC-60's, and the ATE Super Blue fluid has been replaced with SR600 fluid. The discs are in and the pads should arrive in a few weeks.
 

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I like what I am seeing.

That carbon fiber imitation there is mind-blowing. I mean, my mind is thoroughly blown.

And everything else so far is nice as well.
 
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