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I installed an oil filter "sandwich"-to-cooler situation with low pressure lines, so they burst. I was miles away from home, and decided to just try to get home, after oil sprayed all over the place; even got on my windscreen. I could only get 1.5 miles before the car died, and it would not re-start. Had to order a tow. Of note, the temp gauge didn't rise a single bit, perhaps the anti-friction oil additive in there did it's job.
Now parked in street, cleaned what I could, and added oil to the crank case.
I have only been able to have it run slightly, but only at about 100 rpm, if that, then it will die. The last time I tried that, I sprayed some ether into the air intake, to no benefit. So, the throttle and the ether failed to give me any additional rpms, and now it won't even do that much anymore.
So, I am out of ideas. I run without timing belt covers, but I did feel both sides of the belt in the spot I could reach, and the timing belt seems dry. I did not open my air filter box, but seriously doubt any oil got that far, and even if it did, I don't think it would be detrimental.
Is there any kind of low-pressure engine cut-off system in our cars? Yes, I have cleared the ECU. Also perhaps of note, I DID notice the CEL appeared to try to come on when I had it sort of running, but it went away before the engine stalled, so, I assumed no code was stored, but I suppose I could be wrong. Either way, it's been erased by now.
Obviously, I am overlooking something else to try; all input welcomed.
 

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Didn't think to look for that, probably as the engine did not get hot at all, so I didn't think I might have lost a head gasket. Don't know if I can recreate the stupid low rpm running condition I was able to slightly enjoy for some few moments to take a look.
 

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It's just a guess, but depending on how much oil you lost, that would have caused a decrease in oil pressure within the engine, which is not good for any running engine. Or hopefully some oil that sprayed around got on some electrical parts, causing the trouble.
 

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I should have paid closer attention to exactly how much oil it took to refill it, but, I doubt there was more than a qt. left in it. The oil shower really did not get all over the top of the engine; more like underneath of the hood, and was spraying out in front of the right side of the car. But I haven't really found much in the way of electronics that got sprayed. I think the oil pressure switch is nothing more than an idiot on/off switch that should have resumed it's off position after I added the oil. Thought maybe the ECU might have had a low pressure engine cut-off function, but, since that has been zeroed anyway, I don't think that is the problem. To me, it behaves as if the VAF got fouled internally, but, I haven't bothered to even check any of that intake stuff yet because I didn't think much if any oil went into the air filter box. Now, I do have a spare VAF to swap out just to do it, so, I guess that will be my next move. Thanks for the attention Good, and Merry Christmas~!
 

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"I should have paid closer attention to exactly how much oil it took to refill it, but, I doubt there was more than a qt. left in it."

Sorry to say, but I think your engine is probably dead. Especially if the low oil pressure light came on when your engine lost all that oil. You are supposed to stop the engine immediately the low oil pressure light comes on. Seconds count. Driving 1.5 miles would have done major damage.

"Thought maybe the ECU might have had a low pressure engine cut-off function, ..."

Very few cars have ever had that function. Ours doesn't.
 

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"I should have paid closer attention to exactly how much oil it took to refill it, but, I doubt there was more than a qt. left in it."

Sorry to say, but I think your engine is probably dead. Especially if the low oil pressure light came on when your engine lost all that oil. You are supposed to stop the engine immediately the low oil pressure light comes on. Seconds count. Driving 1.5 miles would have done major damage.

"Thought maybe the ECU might have had a low pressure engine cut-off function, ..."

Very few cars have ever had that function. Ours doesn't.
Lol, (Hi NickR), I didn't even notice if the low oil light came on. I parked at the store I was going to, and then was when I noticed all the oil that had been ejected in front of my car. I'm wondering if you missed where I said the temp gauge didn't even go one bit higher (all the way up and until it failed). Or, was there some other reason for saying the engine got killed? Either way, the good news for me, and why I have been neglecting the problem until now, is: I have already secured and obtained a lower mile salvage yard 2.5L MX-6 engine from 1995, I think (and I have spent the last 2 years amassing all the new parts I want to install into the engine swap job). But, borrowing cars here and there for my occasional needs is just not much my style, so, I would love to have it be running before I can get myself started on the job. This is also the first time in my life I have not had a running car for a considerable period of time, and it just feels oddly uncomfortable on top. But, really good to see you joining in here Nick. I was hoping you were still "on the job." I should be able to start my swap in a month or two, and knowing you are 'around' is comforting. I think I can figure almost everything out that will come up, but, certain tricky situations always seem to crop up, despite all the best planning and prep.
 

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I installed an oil filter "sandwich"-to-cooler situation with low pressure lines, so they burst. I was miles away from home, and decided to just try to get home, after oil sprayed all over the place; even got on my windscreen. I could only get 1.5 miles before the car died, and it would not re-start. Had to order a tow. Of note, the temp gauge didn't rise a single bit, perhaps the anti-friction oil additive in there did it's job.
Now parked in street, cleaned what I could, and added oil to the crank case.
I have only been able to have it run slightly, but only at about 100 rpm, if that, then it will die. The last time I tried that, I sprayed some ether into the air intake, to no benefit. So, the throttle and the ether failed to give me any additional rpms, and now it won't even do that much anymore.
So, I am out of ideas. I run without timing belt covers, but I did feel both sides of the belt in the spot I could reach, and the timing belt seems dry. I did not open my air filter box, but seriously doubt any oil got that far, and even if it did, I don't think it would be detrimental.
Is there any kind of low-pressure engine cut-off system in our cars? Yes, I have cleared the ECU. Also perhaps of note, I DID notice the CEL appeared to try to come on when I had it sort of running, but it went away before the engine stalled, so, I assumed no code was stored, but I suppose I could be wrong. Either way, it's been erased by now.
Obviously, I am overlooking something else to try; all input welcomed.
Sounds like you lost such a huge amount of oil that continuing to drive 1.5 miles destroyed your compression. It doesn't take much. It doesn't need to get hot to ruin the ring/cylinder wall seal. If you have a compression tester, this is easy to check. Based on the fact that it started once then not at all even with ether, I would say your decision to continue driving after such a catastrophic oil loss destroyed your compression. It's obviously not fuel, because it started once. Starting at all tells you that there is spark. Only thing left is bad compression. I had this happen to me after hitting a deer. It came done on my hood and ripped the tee for the oil gauge and idiot light sender right out of the block fitting. I knew better than to even attempt to drive it after that much oil loss and had it towed. Fixed the oil fitting plumbing. Added oil and all was fine. I am sorry for you, but unfortunately you made a bad decision to keep driving it after such an oil loss, IMO. I'm betting your compression is less than 50-75 psig. on all cylinders. You need a new engine. Rebuilding at this point is expensive and difficult.
 

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Sounds like you lost such a huge amount of oil that continuing to drive 1.5 miles destroyed your compression. It doesn't take much. It doesn't need to get hot to ruin the ring/cylinder wall seal. If you have a compression tester, this is easy to check. Based on the fact that it started once then not at all even with ether, I would say your decision to continue driving after such a catastrophic oil loss destroyed your compression. It's obviously not fuel, because it started once. Starting at all tells you that there is spark. Only thing left is bad compression. I had this happen to me after hitting a deer. It came done on my hood and ripped the tee for the oil gauge and idiot light sender right out of the block fitting. I knew better than to even attempt to drive it after that much oil loss and had it towed. Fixed the oil fitting plumbing. Added oil and all was fine. I am sorry for you, but unfortunately you made a bad decision to keep driving it after such an oil loss, IMO. I'm betting your compression is less than 50-75 psig. on all cylinders. You need a new engine. Rebuilding at this point is expensive and difficult.
I think you are spot on re; bad compression. I should test it for a goof. I had Motorkote in the oil, so I figured I'd see what would happen, and shut it down if the temp increased. If you hadn't chimed in here, I think I would never have suspected that, and it would have remained a mystery. The other reason I drove on like I did is because I had already pulled a 2.5L from an MX-6 at the boneyard this summer. I HAD planned on buying a JDM DE for years. But, I also wanted a better M/T, so, I had been keeping my eyes out for one for quite a while. When I found the donor for the tranny, and did most of the work already securing the M/T, it struck me I should just spend one more day there and return back for the engine too. $300 vs $850-900 JDM to p.u. at some dock. It only has 144k miles on it, so, should still be decent I think. My 1.8L MX-3 engine has 270k, and I was suspecting the compression was worsening lately because it got slower one day rather quickly on the Interstate, and all the sudden I began not being able to maintain 80 mph any more. I had to switch off the A/C in order to continue home, and it was like that to the end; I tested pretty much everything else because compression, then as now, never occurred to me. But it all adds up now that you have explained that it doesn't take much to lose the compression. I have been busy, plus I didn't want to do the swap until it gets wintery nice here in PHX, AZ, and also because my neighbor's car has been so easy to borrow for my meager needs; about once per week. Otherwise I would have posted this issue 3 months sooner. Given this new input, and given that the odds look good to get another Woo Flu Stimulus check soon, I'm back to considering getting a JDM DE again, and see if I can't sell the salvage yard pull for $4-450. That way too I could get a curved neck DE for my MX-3 because I had been figuring I would just swap in the MX-3's curved neck intake onto the MX-6's DE. The loss of high rpm performance with the lesser intake wouldn't have bothered me since I don't drive like that anyway. Still doesn't bother me either, but now I'm thinking using an engine with 100k fewer miles on it might be the better way to go, and the correct IM would just be bonus icing on the cake, and might just work a bit better in general. Sound about right? And thanks so much for the input here guys, I really appreciate it~!!!
 

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I think you are spot on re; bad compression. I should test it for a goof. I had Motorkote in the oil, so I figured I'd see what would happen, and shut it down if the temp increased. If you hadn't chimed in here, I think I would never have suspected that, and it would have remained a mystery. The other reason I drove on like I did is because I had already pulled a 2.5L from an MX-6 at the boneyard this summer. I HAD planned on buying a JDM DE for years. But, I also wanted a better M/T, so, I had been keeping my eyes out for one for quite a while. When I found the donor for the tranny, and did most of the work already securing the M/T, it struck me I should just spend one more day there and return back for the engine too. $300 vs $850-900 JDM to p.u. at some dock. It only has 144k miles on it, so, should still be decent I think. My 1.8L MX-3 engine has 270k, and I was suspecting the compression was worsening lately because it got slower one day rather quickly on the Interstate, and all the sudden I began not being able to maintain 80 mph any more. I had to switch off the A/C in order to continue home, and it was like that to the end; I tested pretty much everything else because compression, then as now, never occurred to me. But it all adds up now that you have explained that it doesn't take much to lose the compression. I have been busy, plus I didn't want to do the swap until it gets wintery nice here in PHX, AZ, and also because my neighbor's car has been so easy to borrow for my meager needs; about once per week. Otherwise I would have posted this issue 3 months sooner. Given this new input, and given that the odds look good to get another Woo Flu Stimulus check soon, I'm back to considering getting a JDM DE again, and see if I can't sell the salvage yard pull for $4-450. That way too I could get a curved neck DE for my MX-3 because I had been figuring I would just swap in the MX-3's curved neck intake onto the MX-6's DE. The loss of high rpm performance with the lesser intake wouldn't have bothered me since I don't drive like that anyway. Still doesn't bother me either, but now I'm thinking using an engine with 100k fewer miles on it might be the better way to go, and the correct IM would just be bonus icing on the cake, and might just work a bit better in general. Sound about right? And thanks so much for the input here guys, I really appreciate it~!!!
Well, good luck. One note though is that my experience (50+ years) is that no oil additive could have saved you. In my experience, most do nothing. Some offer temporary protection. I don't use them and would not trust them. I use 100% synthetic oil since it first came on the market. Makes a HUGE difference. My MX6 was build in January 1994 (that makes it 27 years old!). It still runs great with 178,000 miles on it. Compression tests show nearly the same results as my first test at 34,000 miles (within 20 psig.). Only real problem with the car is the sun in southern USA has ripped the clear coat off.
 

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Well, good luck. One note though is that my experience (50+ years) is that no oil additive could have saved you. In my experience, most do nothing. Some offer temporary protection. I don't use them and would not trust them. I use 100% synthetic oil since it first came on the market. Makes a HUGE difference. My MX6 was build in January 1994 (that makes it 27 years old!). It still runs great with 178,000 miles on it. Compression tests show nearly the same results as my first test at 34,000 miles (within 20 psig.). Only real problem with the car is the sun in southern USA has ripped the clear coat off.
I only bought the Motorkote stuff after seeing a YouTube by Project Farm testing it on bearings with a home-made leverage/pressure tool. I too love synthetics. If I were in a pinch, I would buy ST synth at walmart, or, Pennziol Synth (at Walmart too), which I read is the only true synthetic oil, made 100% from natural gas. Recently, I also came across information regarding the wonderful lubricating qualities of esther oil, used in r134a A/C systems. I bought some for using in my A/C system when I rebuild everything, and I'm going to install r152a, or, "Dust Off." I will likely use as an oil additive in the crankcase and maybe also in the M/T. BTW, what do you like to use in your M/T (assuming not A/T)_.
 

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I only bought the Motorkote stuff after seeing a YouTube by Project Farm testing it on bearings with a home-made leverage/pressure tool. I too love synthetics. If I were in a pinch, I would buy ST synth at walmart, or, Pennziol Synth (at Walmart too), which I read is the only true synthetic oil, made 100% from natural gas. Recently, I also came across information regarding the wonderful lubricating qualities of esther oil, used in r134a A/C systems. I bought some for using in my A/C system when I rebuild everything, and I'm going to install r152a, or, "Dust Off." I will likely use as an oil additive in the crankcase and maybe also in the M/T. BTW, what do you like to use in your M/T (assuming not A/T)_.
A
I only bought the Motorkote stuff after seeing a YouTube by Project Farm testing it on bearings with a home-made leverage/pressure tool. I too love synthetics. If I were in a pinch, I would buy ST synth at walmart, or, Pennziol Synth (at Walmart too), which I read is the only true synthetic oil, made 100% from natural gas. Recently, I also came across information regarding the wonderful lubricating qualities of esther oil, used in r134a A/C systems. I bought some for using in my A/C system when I rebuild everything, and I'm going to install r152a, or, "Dust Off." I will likely use as an oil additive in the crankcase and maybe also in the M/T. BTW, what do you like to use in your M/T (assuming not A/T)_.
BTW, what were your compression readings circa the 145k mile mark, and what are they today?
 

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A friend responded to my issue this way: "On the car running out of oil I would have thought it may have been not starting because of the oil pressure sensor not sensing any oil pressure. Even with oil in the vehicle now it may not start because the pump may not Prime having been so dry. On older cars with a distributor you could pull the distributor out fill the oil filter with oil and turn the shaft that's underneath the distributor to prime the pump. Or pull the oil pan off and pack the oil pump gears with grease to get them to pull up good suction and Prime. I've seen several vehicles that will not start if the computer senses no oil pressure while cranking."
I will do searches for oil priming, maybe. Naw, this can't be it because it did essentially 'run' @ 100 rpms.
 

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Is the engine able to crank and turn over ? That will enable you to see what the compression in the cylinders is.
 

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A friend responded to my issue this way: "On the car running out of oil I would have thought it may have been not starting because of the oil pressure sensor not sensing any oil pressure. Even with oil in the vehicle now it may not start because the pump may not Prime having been so dry. On older cars with a distributor you could pull the distributor out fill the oil filter with oil and turn the shaft that's underneath the distributor to prime the pump. Or pull the oil pan off and pack the oil pump gears with grease to get them to pull up good suction and Prime. I've seen several vehicles that will not start if the computer senses no oil pressure while cranking."
I will do searches for oil priming, maybe. Naw, this can't be it because it did essentially 'run' @ 100 rpms.
My MX6 had the pressure sensor torn off completely after I hit a deer. Definitely zero oil pressure, but the engine continued to run until I quickly pulled over and turned it off. So, although this may be the case with new cars with more sophisticated ECMs, I don't believe the 2.5LV6 used in the MX6 does this. Just some real world experience.
 
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