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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, so the beast is in and seems to be ready for break-in.

Looking on the internet, it seems like everyone has there own method for break-in....
:shrug:

One guy on the web (supposed motorcycle mechanical guru) is saying that the first 20 miles even are actually crucial for getting the very best ring seal possible.

Anyways, I'd like to hear what you all have to say.

Do I need to pre-lube anything before commencing break-in?

The motor came with some amount of oil already in it out of the crate. I drained that and have filled it up with 10W40 oil to start off with.. (non-synthetic)
 

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Should be 5W 30. I've HEARD that you can beat on it right out the box, but I've also heard that you're suppose to take it easy for the first 3000 miles. Changing oil every 500 miles checking the filter for metal and what not.
 

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The manual says it takes 5w30 so I would put that. Other than that, I really don't know. I think you'll have to keep reading and go with which method you think works best for sealing the piston rings.
 

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most new cars are usually up to the first 1k miles, don't pound on it, at least from my experience (no redlining). I'd rather be safe than have a doh moment. Especially if you have a new clutch, no more than 1/4-1/3 throttle when starting from a stop at least for the first 500 miles. 5w-30, oem specs
 

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I disagree with the 5W-30 idea.... it kind of depends on your climate. If it's really damn cold then 5-30 might be ok. But I don't know ANY oil that is 5W-30 and not at least semi synthetic.

I've heard that you DON'T use synthetic oil during break in. I've read/heard this plenty, I've never heard anyone recommend synthetic oil for break in. It's an old engine (new, but old technology). So whoever says use 5W-30 is not really thinking about the situation IMO.

Use 10W-40 non synthetic oil. Change the oil pretty quickly as you have read. Then change after 500 miles etc. I would stick to the same oil for at least 3000-5000 kms.

Also, my MX6 has a mazda paper under the bonnet which specifies which oils to use. It's all dependent on your climate. You can use 20W-50 if you want to.... it's also in my MX6 owners manual. There's a chart showing temps and which oils are suited to the climate.

For engine break in I would use thicker stuff as you definitely don't want to under protect the engine. I'd be using 10W or 15W to start with.

How to break it in? No idea, I would not give it full throttle. You can rev it, but slowly with minimal throttle IMO, if you know what I mean. I've read that engine break in article also. Not sure really. Best thing would be to contact someone here who's rebuilt before, get their opinion, find out how their engine is going now.
 

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chefspot i agree with 30x about 5-30. Use 10 30 when its warm and hot out but when it starts getting colder go with 5 30.
 

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when my room mate bought his speed3 the dealer ship said no break in needed and to go ahead and beat on it
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the input, guys.

I'm going to start off with running it for 20 minutes at 2000 rpm and then I'll drain the oil and likely change the oil and filter then.

Those speed3s are pretty kool....maybe just take the motor, though, and put it in our own cars....

:drinkup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Update:

Drained the oil after running it 20 minutes and checked the filter...did not see a speck of metal anywhere. Then set the timing at 10 degrees.

Seems to be running very smooth...I drove it about 20 miles today and went up as high as 4000 rpms today. Seems like it would be good to not get too far above that for awhile.

(sorry about the double post, that was supposed to be an edit to the previous post.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Thanks. Taking it easy is not something that comes very natural to me but I'll try to contain myself and the rpms. (for a little while anyways)

The car could use a new paint job and I've got a few dings here and there but I'd like to fix that hopefully within the year. I left something on the inlet that took some paint off in a couple spots. (think it was Superclean) Have to touch it up now.







I bumped the range up to 4500 today. It's idling really well and the lifters are very quiet, but I think you can still hear them some.
 

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Cool, but why the HAI? I can't understand what the purpose of using a pod in that spot is? The standard air box would be better for power IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Cool, but why the HAI? I can't understand what the purpose of using a pod in that spot is? The standard air box would be better for power IMO.
That's the way it came when I bought the car. You might be right...I don't know unless we do some kind of comparison. I'm getting some tubing to route it down lower anyways, so we'll see.

Anybody know if the MAFS can be switched out to a higher flow unit or would it make a difference??
 
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