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Hows this…?

Kerosene engine flush...Step by step...

1. Drain oil except one quart, or you can drain all the oil and add one quart of new oil. (Starting with a NEW oil filter is recommended).
2. Add the remainder as kerosene, approx. 3 quarts.
3. Start the engine. DO NOT REV THE ENGINE
4. Let it run until warm, not HOT, just warm. About 5-10 mins.
5. Drain the entire contents, during or just after you can continuously pour kerosene into the engine until it comes out clear...
6. Add one quart oil, 3 quarts kerosene.
7. Run the engine again until slightly warmer. DO NOT REV THE ENGINE
8. Drain the entire system.
9. Again if you think it requires, you can pour Kerosene into the NON-running engine as it drains out until it comes out clear.
10. Pour about one quart of oil and let it run out of the oil pan.
11. Add your favourite oil/oil filter.(replace oil pan plug...)
12. Run engine until it’s at operating temperature. Check to make sure it is running ok.
13. Optional...You can drain the system one last time and add new oil filter and oil...

This does a great job...

The residue that comes out should be quite black and a thin liquid...Chunks or sludge should be dissolved...


Flushing engine with kerosene gives very good results. Engine oil flush additives are basically kerosene too, put them in a glass bottle and compare..

However, there is one exception for the engine flush: high mileage cars. In an old engine you really don't want to remove all the deposits. Some of these deposits help seal rings, lifters and even some of the flanges between the heads, covers, pan and the block, where the gaskets are thin. I have heard of engines with over 180000 miles that worked fine, but when flushed it failed in a month because the blow-by past the scraper ring (now really clean) contaminated the oil and screwed the rod bearings. So having said that …

Disclaimer: I am not responsible for the out come of this procedure... do so at your own risk.. IE you decide if your car is of insufficient mileage to expect a good result..
 

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My 6 has 170,000 miles on it, and i'm thinking that if i clean the engine out with auto-rx or kerosine or whatever, then engine is going to recieve power it's not used to, which i feel may make it fail due to more stress. (commenting on how you stated that cars over 180,000 may not react to well)
What would you recommend for me? i have some HLA noise, but it's not too bad (knock on wood). This thanksgiving break i'm going to put dino 5w30 in it, I'm not sure what's in it now, i bet 10w30. I just bought it a few weeks ago. But anyways, what should i do ... if anything.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
No, you all are way off track. I need the Web link that goes to the webpage the guy made about cleaning the HLAS manually. I need this link because it describes how to remove the HLA. I have 2 blown hlas in the rear bank and need to fix them. Doing a flush wont help blown hlas. I know there blown because they tap hard, very hard...as if a valve is broken. They procede to tap hard no matter how warm the engine is, no matter how long ive been driving and no matter how many oil changes i do. And they procede to tap hard as im driving at any gear at and rev. After the car has warmed up and all the hlas stop tapping you can hear them, i did the old screw driver trick to pin point the taping sound and found it.
Im not completly sure its a hla, im just crossing my fingers and praying it is.. a valve broken would mean removing the head and sending it in or buying a new one.

Im doing a complete top end tear down and oil pan removal (to clean the sludge from the pan) My hlas dont tap much, when they do its really cold out...so i dont care to clean them...i just want to get the bad ones fixed.

I did a search on this and all i found is how to clean it by doing a flush.
I know theres a site, ive been to it before. i dont know why it wasent made a sticky thread.

Thanks in advance.
 

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RicedoutMx6 said:
No, you all are way off track. I need the Web link that goes to the webpage the guy made about cleaning the HLAS manually.
heres the link to the sticky on mx6.com ;) unfortunately the pics dont work

i just cleaned mine last night. theyre easy to take apart, just start pulling the peices appart. the hard part is bleading them to get all the air out before u put them back in. while pressing the check valve down with a pin prime the hla with your fingers. i found a word document form of it on PT with working pictures but i cant find the link now. send me ur email and ill send u the word doc.

idk if id recomend this though, i wasnt able to get the hlas back to the same pressure they were at before cleaning them. i wont know untill i get my engine back together in a week or 2 if theyre better or worse.
 

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Apache600 said:
My 6 has 170,000 miles on it, and i'm thinking that if i clean the engine out with auto-rx or kerosine or whatever, then engine is going to recieve power it's not used to, which i feel may make it fail due to more stress. (commenting on how you stated that cars over 180,000 may not react to well)
What would you recommend for me? i have some HLA noise, but it's not too bad (knock on wood). This thanksgiving break i'm going to put dino 5w30 in it, I'm not sure what's in it now, i bet 10w30. I just bought it a few weeks ago. But anyways, what should i do ... if anything.
Thanks
Go to the auto RX web site. You can ask questions and read testimonials from people who have similar mileage or more and swear by it. I am running it in 2 cars, a mini van and 2 suv's currently. I just ordered 4 more bottles (they have a sale on right now). You can only get it from the website as far as I know.
 
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