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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
ok guys i started another thread earlier but it was about something else so i guess if i need help on something different than i have to repost...atleast thats what i think. i'm gonna go step by step on the problem i have so we as a team can get to the bottom of this. it has been going on ever since i installed the new engine.

i go and start the car. since i've install a full msd ignition system(wires coming soon) that includes a external coil and a hei the car starts right up no problem. when it starts it idles high at about 1500 rpm's and than the revs slowly starts to go down until the point where it stalls out, i would have to press the gas to keep the revs up so it doesn't die on me. now this is on cold start that i would have to keep doing these until it warms up than i don't have to press the pedal to keep the revs up anymore.

now if i press the pedal softly while doin that it will stay on but if i press down on it hard like giving it alot of gas it just dies completely and this is on cold start as i just explained...now after its warmed up i press the gas and it won't rev past 1000 rpm's at all. when i rev it up to like 3400 rpm and hold it it won't rev past 3400 rpm's. what i'm trying to explain is when you start any manual car, you can press the gas and the revs would go all the way up to redline with that one press of the throttle...mine isn't doing that. when i press the gas it doesn't rev up at all! i have new spark plugs, new oem spark plug wires, new cap modified w/msd power tower ,new rotor, i just replaced the fuel filter yesterday and take note this has been happening before i put the msd ignition in the car so rule that out! all my vacuum hoses are hooked up according to the de vacuum diagram and nothing is lose, i've checked 20 times and over unless i have something hooked up wrong which i don't think i do.

i forget to mention that on cold start it would idle high on 1500 rpm slowly work its way to 750 rpm idle rough and than stall. i'm just trying to explain everything from detail and step by step on whats going on cause i really need help on this. i just can't figure it out anymore, um seriously stuck!

i was wondering if it could be my fuel system: injectors, fpr, and or fuel pump or maybe my timing which i have no idea how to set. i just need some extra brains on this and alot of you guys have alot of experience with this car, i'm still learning and just wanted you guys opinion on what it could be! and thanks for any help!
 

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Ok.. so the car will not pull off at all, as soon as you give it any peddle, it stalls right out and you have not been able to drive it since the engine swap ?

Check engine light staying on ? if so have you checked for any codes ? infact check for them anyway.

Timing set correctly ? as in diag mode, set to 10 with the revs at 650 ?

VAF, 5 wire plug in the side good and no broken / crimped wires ?

What happens when the car gets hot... same issues ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Ok.. so the car will not pull off at all, as soon as you give it any peddle, it stalls right out and you have not been able to drive it since the engine swap ?


Check engine light staying on ? if so have you checked for any codes ? infact check for them anyway.

Timing set correctly ? as in diag mode, set to 10 with the revs at 650 ?

VAF, 5 wire plug in the side good and no broken / crimped wires ?

What happens when the car gets hot... same issues ?


#1: exactly

#2:the codes that i was getting before have been fixed. i replaced with new ones. i can't remember the code numbers but i was getting fpr solenoid, vris 1&2 solenoids, egr vacuum solenoid, tps sensor, idle air control solenoid and coolant temp sensor...which the last three went away after i replaced all the solenoids. if i check them now i won't get any codes. if i jump the pins the light stays on for 4 seconds and than turns off. when i start the car the cel light isn't on, when the car stalls it comes on and when the key is in the ignition in the on position its on!

#3: i don't think it is. i can trouble shoot this and go from there. the problem is i don't have a timing gun and i need more assistance on this. i set the timing to tdc the first time but the problem is the cam marks on the timing belt don't align at all and my tdc points at #2 cylinder instead of #1!

#4:yes the plug is good, but i can double and triple check if i must.

#5:you mean when it overheats or when it warms up? the engine shouldn't be overheating at all because its brand new but the answer to your question is after it warms up, it does the samething.


thanks for responding oddball!
 

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well it sounds very much like the VAF.

Are you running the stock intake system or do you have a cold air intake fitted. If you have a cold air intake fitted, please ensure you have the VAF fitted the right way around when it was put back in.

edit: sorry forgot the other points.

I dont mean overheats, i just ment when the engine reaches normal operating temp. Just wanted to know if the problem went away when the engine was warm.

You will need a timing gun/light to do the timing correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i have a cold air intake! can you do me a favor and take a picture of how the vaf is suppose to set when installed with a cai. when i open my hood, the kl02 tag on the vaf is upside down when i'm in front of the engine looking at it...is it suppose to be the other way around?...don't tell i'm a det det det!lol!

and i guess uma have to get a timing gun this week!
 

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I cannot source a pic just now, but the 5 wire plug should be on the right (battery) side and the release for the plug should be on the top.

if you can remove it, the 'cone' section that moves in and out should point towards the front of the car, and move in and out freely.
 

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have you checked the cone moves freely within it ?

If this moves freely and is fitted correctly, then i guess you have a pipe disconnected 'after' the vaf, like the one on the intake elbow, the pipe on the rear cam cover that also connects to the same pipe that connects to the intake elbow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
yeah thats on as well...theres another hose that connects to the intake elbow. i have a ebay k&n CAI. theres two hoses, one that connects to the intake elbow that runs to the rear valve cover and theres another that runs from the back of the intake elbow to the egr vent solenoid valve..this one may not be hooked up right! i'll post a pick tomorrow of the cai and the hoses and where they connect to. is that hose hooked wrong???
 

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ok, the large pipe is correct. the smaller bore vacum pipe should run to a metal pipe under the throttle body, of which then connects to another vac line to the solenoids.

If we dont have vac leaks / open pipes, no ecu check light indicating faulty sensors, then we need to check the mechanical timing of the crank and camshafts and ensure the belt has not slipped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
ok! will check on that hose in the mourning. thursday i'll be going to the auto parts for a timing gun! i'll post here tomorrow mourning to update on that hose! i guess we'll figure this out one step at a time..thankyou oddball for helping me!


edit: you know what i just saw a cai installed on someone elses car...was i suppose to vent the pcv to atmosphere. he had a small filter cone where the pcv goes and i didn't see anything connected on the intake side!??? also the hose that hooks up to the rear valve cover, was i suppose to clamp that so it wouldn't be any air leaks...i tell ya the simplist things are always the biggest problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
ok oddball here is some picks to help me out with my hoses...



[img=http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/7954/dsc00046gq2.th.jpg]

the hose what i'm holding, i had it connected to the egr vent solenoid...where is it suppose to be connected i have a feeling that this hose may be wrong!

also...



[img=http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/9554/dsc00047vy9.th.jpg]

do you see that nipple. that nipple is on the im right behind the throttle body. what goes there and if nothing goes there do i block it?

getting timing gun tomorrow mourning, whats the first thing i need to do for the timing?
 

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Right .. below is my colour coded vacuum diagram to help you follow the related pipes.

You cannot leave that vac nipple open, its causing a vacuum leak and air is beimg drawn into the engine of which the ECU knows nothing about. Follow the diagram and you will see what and where that nipple is supposed to be connected to.

 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
then i had everything connected right according to this diagram because its the same diagram that i used to connect all of my hoses. that nipple on the im, i had the hose going from there to the bottom nipple of the purge solenoid...is that correct? and from seeing the diagram i also had the other hose that goes from the intake to the egr vent solenoid correct.

i have a question? theres a skinny hard line for a vac connection right behind the throttle body like you said it would be, its welded to a larger hard line for vacuum. i know what needs to be hooked up there but i relocated the solenoid because i thought that i didn't need it and because i really didn't have any place else to fit it. is there air running from the larger hard pipe for vacuum to the skinny hard line for vacuum? meaning are those two pipes sharing the same air? because if they are then theres my vacuum leak!
 

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There are 3 hard lines running under the throttle body, on the pic above they are ...

Black line, you can see where it changes.

Yellow line, this is the small bore pipe you have hold of in the pic from the intake elbow.

Green line, runs to the top of the charcoal filter.

The metal pipes are just hard line links, and if noting is connected to them, then they do nothing. They are just welded to the larger vacuum pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
ok thanks for letting me know that, i feel much better now. i'm gonna go tomorrow and spray over the vacuum hoses with throttle body cleaner while the car is running to see if there is any vac leaks and i'll also be buying a timing gun tomorrow so i can start the timing. i'll post here again tomorrow for updates. i'll do a search on how to set the timing, if i need help than i'll just ask!

edit: question??? when setting the timing do i need to take the ac, water pump and power steering pump pulley belts off?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
ok timing is set. with the car warmed up it doesn't hesitate but i can't rev past 4000 rpm in nuetral if i lightly press the pedal. if i press it hard and quick it does the same thing it won't rev. i'm also using a aftermarket tach, would this cause this? i may change all the vacuum hoses i have hooked up. i've changed them before but i used 3mm vacuum hoses. what mm was i suppose to use? i really don't think that i have a vacuum leak...gonna try cleaning out the throttle body and burping the coolant system to stop the fluctuation during cold start if its still there and where and what is the tb boot so i can check that as well? also when doing the timing in diagnosis mode its at a steady 750 rpm but when out of diagnosis its at a steady 850 instead of 750...what does that mean?
 

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For the purposes of fixing the issues, i would change back to the stock tach until all is resolved.

Your timing should have been set to 650 rpm at 10 deg BTDC and with the engine at operating temperature, i.e Hot. If you did not do so, then thats why the revs increased when you put it back, as the ecu was adjusting the speed sue to the temp of the water. If you did do it with the engine at operating temp, then there may be an issue with the water temp sensors. They can go, or send false info without throwing a code. If you have one spare, swap out the GREEN water temp sensor need the water filler cap.
The vac hose i used was 4 mm i think, but its not a major problem unless its collapsing.

TB boot to me would mean the intake elbow, of which you no longer have as you have fitted the CAI.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
yeah, the engine was at normal temp when i did everything. when i first set it it was way off so i'll swap out that coolant sensor from my previous engine that i took out before i swap this one and gonna reset timing to 650 rpm tomorrow. thanks so much oddball for helping me...as always if i need anymore help i'll just post here and ask!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
update!!!

hey oddball, got a question?... the vacuum hose that goes from the brake booster to the intake manifold, it has a one way valve in it right...what would happen if i were to replace that with a regular sized vacuum hose. when the car was first given to me it didn't have that hose so i replaced with a regular vacuum hose.

i go to start the car today and it was idling real bad after i had did the timing and everything and i was hearing a whistling sound also so i knew it had to be a hose which all of them were fine. so i go and play around with some of the hoses and i play around with that one and notice that the idle got better...i probably would never have noticed that if i didn't change my master cylinder this weekend, i think i found the culprit to my accel problem!
 
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