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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Went to the MaPOC dyno meet over the weekend which was a good way to see what the car is putting down with my new 2-1/2" cat-back and Zombie chip. The results were good... and not so good. Before the meet I estimated I would put down between 230 & 240 ft-lbs at the wheels, up from 212 ft-lbs at the last dyno session.

Good news: numbers were up and I'm making good power.
Bad news: she's running filthy filthy rich and should be making more power. So rich, in fact, I'm surprised she isn't flooding and bogging.

With the new exhaust it spikes to 12psi and holds at 10psi. After discovering how rich it was I tried to adjust the dawes for more boost but it proved too difficult to do quickly while strapped to the rollers. I suspect the fuel curve on the chip is causing the rich condition. Unfortunately I forgot to bring along my stock ECU box to compare. Probably wouldn't matter anyway since I would most likely hit boost cut on that anyway.
 

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Yeah the dawes is a pain in the ass to adjust on the fly. It gets insanely hot quickly and if you shortened the lines to avoid spike then its pretty cramped and you have to take off the top intercooler pipe and grab a tiny flathead to remove the hose and adjust the screw.

I just set it for 16 psi and called it a day, my foot is the best boost controller, there power is there if i need it.

Anyway, good work, crank that boost up and see what you can do next time!
 

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Looks good, power curve especially, considering how rich you're running. How much did it cost for 3 runs?
I'd like to go out and get some dyno runs in sometime to see if this T3 did anything for top end.
 

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good news is that you made good power even though your 9:1 a/f.

Bad news is you just found one of the annoying limitations of the ecu and chipping.

Whats happening is your flowing enough air to almost max the VAF out at your boost level. When that happens, the ECU is reading the highest 2 points on the map which I have remapped enough fuel for 16 psi.

Even on 16 psi you should still be a bit richer than 11.8:1 because I made a very safe tune knowing what people do to boosted cars (they get addicted and overdose). As the saying goes, better rich than lean.

If you up your boost to 15 or so, you will pick up a lot of power and the a/f should be in the low 11.x range.

You should up the boost :) You got enough fuel for it :).

I'm pretty amazed at how well these motors do for such little mods.

BTW, if you turned the boost down to 8 psi, your a/f should look a lot better due to where the map is reading. Also, if i retuned that chip for just 12 psi you would probably pick up about 10 hp and 20lb/ft or tq on that boost, but 12 psi isn't that much fun, 14 is fun for daily driving though.

Thanks for posting the graph with the wideband data, now go up the boost and dyno again. I'm sure you'll have a much bigger smile on your face with 16 psi.

If you compare your graph to a stock ecu, you'll probalby notice that your power doesn't drop like a rock after 4500 like stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
rebel, it costs us $65 for up to 4 pulls and $75 if you want an A/F reading. It's well worth it to find out what your car is really doing.

I was hoping you would see this Jeremy. Thanks for the explaination. I forgot to mention that the power curves do look a lot better. Looks like this is one situation where running more boost will actually be better for my car. :p Not sure when I'll be able to dyno again but in the meantime I know that I can install an intake and safely boost away.
 

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I forgot to mention that the power curves do look a lot better
That might be the chip and exhaust workin together. The exhaust is the most part of the power curves.

BTW, do you have any pics of the exhaust.....what kind??

Great numbers!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
:eek: Sorry no pics of the exhaust. It's nothing special: 2-1/2" crush bent aluminized cat-back (stock cat, no resonator) with a quiet Cherry Bomb Turbo muffler. They welded an ugly piece of thick exhaust pipe extension to the muffler before I realized. :rolleyes: Oh well I'll have it removed eventually.

I'm excited. With upping the boost to about 14psi (and leaning it out a bit) I think it's reasonable to estimate about 255 ft-lbs of torque at the front wheels. With a 15% drivetrain loss that's about 293 ft-lbs at the crank! Would I be unreasonable in that estimation? Damn these cars for being so cool!! })
 

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Guess this proves that on stock boost these cars do put down 145whp and 190wtq.

Awesome numbers for just 3 psi above stock and Zombie's chip!
 

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Guess this proves that on stock boost these cars do put down 145whp and 190wtq.
I had 147whp and 196wftlbs with just an intake and cat-back. I guess its pretty close??
 

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i turned my greddy down to WG pressure. put down 150HP and 198 WTQ. mods as described in my sig.
 

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Lean out with your VAF MAF sensor

heres a link on how to lean out with your
MAF sensor, dont know if youve dont it yet. its not to hard, u can go either way.
http://www.performanceprobe.com/index2.cgi
anyways, hope to hear if youve done it and how it works.
chuck:D
click on do it yourself and a screen pops up with a car and click on upgrades and then its at the top under air flow meter modifications. has good pics and all.
 

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Hey jeremy, is this possible?

Say I wanted you to burn me a chip, to get rid of the boost cut and improve ignition timing, but basically leave the stock fuel map alone or improve it while keeping it for 12psi. Then I could use my FMU to add fuel for boost higher than 12psi. Would that be possible? Cuz it seems like even if you have the boost set for 16psi, you'll be running rich in part-throtle driving where you're not always making that full 16.
 
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