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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just picked up a 1990 Mx-6 gt and it has a blow off valve on it and after reving it trys to die.I figure its because its loading up on fuel from unmetered air.Well my question is when I owned a 2.3T mustang to keep that from happing I put the vam inline between the blowoff and the throttle that way it wasnt seeing the air being blown off.Can I do the same thing on this car?..Has anyone tried?..It looks like the same meter to me.
 

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I'm guessing you suggest that a VAM is a Vane Airflow Meter.

In order for the Blow Off Valve to work, it has to be before the VAF.
(VAF = Vane Air Flow) So it really is a VAF meter, at least that is the proper name in regards to the stock Mazda setup.

It is not possible to swap in another meter. The physical design is similar, and the operating principles are similar, but it is electrcially incompatible.

Note: 1988-1992 Probe, Mx6, 626, turbo and non turbo all share the same exact VAF.

The stock Bypass Valve, is behind the VAF. If you want to use a Blow Off Valve, then you have to relocate the VAF, so that it is after the Blow Off Valve, but still before the Throttle body. It is possible. Search for Mazda Carnage in the 1g forum, he was running that setup for a while.

Seriously though, there is no benefit to running a blowoff valve, it's just plain Ricey.

Most of the 1g forum owners are very anti-"Rice". Mostly the 1g forum is about performance - either just plain going fast, or improving handling/suspension. If you care about appearences, get a 2g Mx6.


There is no performance benefit to the Blow Off valve.
The bypass valve works just fine.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the info.I'm not about being a "ricer"..But the bov came on the car and I was just trying to work with what I have.I was going to put hard pipes on it anyways and I thought if the meter can be put in line I'll just do that while I'm at it.
 

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No worries.. I'm not saying you are ricer... just that stock is bypass, and it works fine, and there is no advantage to the BOV.. unless you have a BOV, and keeping it is cheaper than getting rid of it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well thanks for the info man.Thats weird on the Mustangs they ran better with the vain inline.But I guess different cars do different things.
 

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Try tightening down the BOV, it should have an adjustment screw/nut on it. What type/brand is it?

I run with an HKS SQV and have no issues with stalling or after-firing more than stock setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Its a turboXs rfl..It tries to die out when I rev it up.And after I get into boost and drive normal it starts "poping" between shifts.
 

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There should be an adjustment screw/nut on it. Tighten it down until it closes under vacuum/idle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I tightend it down and it seemed to help..But then I took the car out and beat on it a little and it started tapping super loud from the head..So now I guess I get to change a hla out. :( Ohh well I wanted to paint the ugly valvecover anyways.
 

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LOL

One thing before you rip apart your HLA's, check your engine oil level; change your oil and substitute one quart of oil for a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil :) If that doesn't quiet it down after a few hundred miles, the take a look at the 1g FAQ's and check out the HLA Removal/Maintenance thread.
 

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That tapping is because there is some clearance between the valves and rockers. The HLA's keep the clearance at 0 so there is no noise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
That tapping is because there is some clearance between the valves and rockers. The HLA's keep the clearance at 0 so there is no noise.
Yea Ive been building Hondas for a few years and thats a super common noise cause the valve lash adjusters like to back themselves out..But its never that loud!.But anywho I went ahead and took it apart and one of the hla,s were squishy and had part of a spring hanging out the bottom...So im going to guess good oil wont fix that? :p
 

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doh! no it won't, and more than likely it wasn't a spring, but probably a torn seal or fubar'd HLA :lol:
 

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Problem with the HLA - that spring thingee is the seal. If you take it apart you have to replace that seal..

Easiest thing to do is just buy a new HLA.. frickin' nigh impossible to properly rebuild.

Cheapest solution is the go to a Ford Dealership and buy the HLA's for a Ford Probe.
My understanding (not having done it myself) is that the Ford Probe HLA's are about $8 each, as opposed to $12 each for the Mazda ones, inspite of being the same thing..

Something something grumble grumble.

Loud ticking could also be worn injector seals, or broken exhaust manifold stud..
Check the HLAs (take off the valve cover, if you can press down a rocker, the HLA is probably bad)..
Exhaust manifold stud -- should be obvious if it is broken.
Worn Injector seals - rubber gets hard, and transmits vibrations..
 
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