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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i just bought a 95 mx-6 v6 tonight and was wondering what i should go through first on the car, what are the usuall trouble spots for these cars? the car has 157k on it, the engine pullls hard. the axles need replaced, the brakes need replaced and other than that there seems to be a loud clicking noise coming from the rear of the car while driving...almost like the sound the cv axles make when there going out....any ideas? thanks in advance for your help
 

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start by going to a mechanic shop and do a complete inspection. then repair the car by order of danger.
 

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The rear calipers are notorious for locking and can then cause a lound clicking rattling sound. Automatic transmissions go out while the manuals last. TPS go out as well. I would check the timing belt due to age and mileage. Valve cover gaskets will leak, oil on the plugs. Other than that, they have been pretty reliable especially since they are all old cars now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
yea i have the brake light indicator dash light on, the guy said it just needs breaks, which came with the car at least. id like to do the timimg belt but not sure ill have the money for that right now....its a 5 speed with a new clutch, the engine seems to make a slight clicking sound but other than that it seems fine.....ill have to go through it little by little and hope for the best
 

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yea i have the brake light indicator dash light on, the guy said it just needs breaks, which came with the car at least. id like to do the timimg belt but not sure ill have the money for that right now....its a 5 speed with a new clutch, the engine seems to make a slight clicking sound but other than that it seems fine.....ill have to go through it little by little and hope for the best
is it the ebrake light or the "rear" light ? If it's the rear light, check ur taillights and if they're fine have your alternator checked, my rear light started coming on weeks before my alt died.
 

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start by going to a mechanic shop and do a complete inspection. then repair the car by order of danger.
Agreed:tup:

If you can go in the shop and have the tech point out the actual issues to be reasonably sure he's being honest. Even if you dont know the first thing about cars being involved reduces the chance ov being scammed. Also look afterwords to be sure the parts were actualy replaced.


Automatic transmissions go out while the manuals last. TPS go out as well. I would check the timing belt due to age and mileage. Valve cover gaskets will leak, oil on the plugs. Other than that, they have been pretty reliable especially since they are all old cars now.
Actualy it's just the 94-97 4 cylinder equipped cars that have the ford sourced transmissions that are very prone to failure.

The 93 4 bangers and all V6's came with Mazdas own 4G series automatic with a respectable history for an auto trans.

The timing belt should be replaced unless there is documentation showing it was replaced well with it's service life span (60,000 miles) As a person that has experienced a broken belt I can say it's well worth replacing early if theres any doubt at all. The belt is fairly cheap and it's not too difficult to do your self if you have done basic work before. There are several threads on this site that can show you how to do it with basic tools.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yea ive done timing belts before, im going to try and do that as soon as possible. Seems the clicking/clunking noise in the rear must be coming from the calipers?..the noise is there while driving but when i break it goes away....i nkow all the brakes need done and thats on the list of things to do, but if the calipers are getting stuck, or if it really is them making the clicking noises is there anyway to fix them or do i just have to replace them?
the brake light on the dash is the emergency brake light, but it stays on all the time....would this be because of the brakes needing replaced or is the e-brake just in need of adjustment possibly?
 

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the ebrake light could just be a stuck switch or maybe your ebrake is up just slightly. if you take your center console off, and take a look at the ebrake assembly, you'll see the switch and pull your ebrake up and down to see if the switch moves. if not, you could probably lube it up. if that doesn't fix it, may have to replace it if it bothers you. should be pretty simple

yea ive done timing belts before, im going to try and do that as soon as possible. Seems the clicking/clunking noise in the rear must be coming from the calipers?..the noise is there while driving but when i break it goes away....i nkow all the brakes need done and thats on the list of things to do, but if the calipers are getting stuck, or if it really is them making the clicking noises is there anyway to fix them or do i just have to replace them?
the brake light on the dash is the emergency brake light, but it stays on all the time....would this be because of the brakes needing replaced or is the e-brake just in need of adjustment possibly?
 

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yea ive done timing belts before, im going to try and do that as soon as possible. Seems the clicking/clunking noise in the rear must be coming from the calipers?..the noise is there while driving but when i break it goes away....i nkow all the brakes need done and thats on the list of things to do, but if the calipers are getting stuck, or if it really is them making the clicking noises is there anyway to fix them or do i just have to replace them?
the brake light on the dash is the emergency brake light, but it stays on all the time....would this be because of the brakes needing replaced or is the e-brake just in need of adjustment possibly?


Proabably strut mounts or shot end links. Calipers freeze at the e brake mechanisim and wont dis-engage when you put the handle down. If the brakes are ratteling you have serious issues.
 

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The ebrake light also comes on and stays on when the fluid in the brake fluid reservoir is low. It's very touchy, so even if it looks full, top it up to be sure. (Dot 3 brake fluid)
 
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