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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Do you think it would be detrimental to delete coolant lines going to the TB and EGR?

And if someone has a coolant system diagram handy or knows a link, please post it.

Thanks.
 

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You should just remove the EGR system completely.

With your TB by-pass. It does remove heat from the throttle body, I've done this to all my mazdas :) Mind you it does take a little longer for it to warm up. No biggy really, just wait til oil pressure is in spec and you're good.

I'll get a pic from my FSM for the coolant system. V6 or 4cyl?

JACK
 

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Jamal .. why do you want to remove this pipe ?

Have you resolved the other issues yo have yet ? .. you need to start working on one issue at a time.

You cannot remove just the one pipe from the egr to the throttle body, else you will just pump out the engine coolant all over the floor.

So why do you want to remove this pipe ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It's a V6, thanks that would be kool.

I don't have a particularly good reason, actually, other than the hose I bought at the parts store is about 1/16 inch too big, it seems, and I was getting leaks from the EGR coolant lines.

For now, I just took away the coolant lines that run to the TB and EGR, and routed that smaller coolant line directly into that port that goes into the engine.

The "problem" now is a NEW loud tapping noise which I think is probably the tensioner arm on the timing belt. (from what I read in other threads) It started making this somewhat loud noise after I pushed the engine to about 6000 rpm in 2nd gear.

OK I need to either scrape up at least $400 to having the timing belt kit installed (which I have already) or do it myself. I think that's what the noise is...still drivable but annoying. The noise is not consistent...sometimes it will quiet down completely for a minute or two but seems like most of the times it's making noise. I just changed my oil yesterday but that didn't seem to help that particular noise much if any.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
A noise from the engine should not be taken lightly.

I think it was probably a rod bearing going, going, going........GONE!

Engine threw a rod through the oil pan.

Still, the Engine would have need to been pulled and repaired anyways.

That particular sound started only about 10 days ago when I punched the engine up to over 6000 rpm which was just too much I guess.

The engine has almost 150K miles and it overheated once pretty badly and even ran with no oil for a time. (not sure how long) That was at least 10K miles ago. I have had the car just parked for about 5 years not driving it but I decided to start driving it again 6 months ago.

Time for a KLZE engine now...I might buy another MX-6 or a 300ZX in the meantime while I swap the engine.

I had just added new oil the day before it blew up, too. Maybe that contributed to the event somehow. Plus it was a very cold day and the engine got warm pretty quickly.
 
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