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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Guys,

I went to start my mx-6 today and nothing happened. It would not start. Starter not cranking.

So we give the car a push to start it manually ( it's a manual ) and the car started right up. I drove it to the convenience store and back and it's operating normally. When turned off , it would not start again and needs another push.

Now the usual suspects in this case are :

1-The clutch safety switch
2-ignition switch ?
3-starter/solenoid
4-Battery

How can I solve this through elimination ? I mean I want to either replace or check and test every component individually to isolate the problem. Any technical guidance is appreciated.

By the way I am also thinking there could be a bad ground somewhere and i will be checking the ground connections of each item

Sooo who can tell me how to check or bypass each of these ? starting with the cluctch safety switch ...???
Let's keep those under-appreciated cars on the road !
Thank you in advance
Gullwing:)
 

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Well, to easilt check the battery you could put a volt meter on it and see what it says. Just recently I read in a thread that said the battery should have 12.6 volts while the car is off, or 13.7-14.9 volts when running. If you don't have one I'd just get a friend and hook up some jumper cables, if she starts it's the battery, if still nothing, move on. Aside from that I have no idea how to check a starter or the neutral safety switch. I could go pick through my manual and quote from it, but I really don't feel like it. Sorry.
 

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When you have the no-crank situation, do all of the interior and dash lights still work? (I will assume they do). I'm thinking your starter solenoid is shot. There is a relatively thin black wire with a red stripe that runs next to the fuse box under the hood. There is a connector along this wire, just to the left of said fusebox. This wire runs directly to the starter solenoid. Disconnect the connector, and with the ignition "ON" and the car in neutral, use a jumper wire to apply +12v to this black/red wire connector on the side that leads to the starter. The starter should crank. If you just get sparks, the starter solenoid is shot and the starter will have to be replaced.

If the starter does crank and the car starts using this method, you have a problem with either the ignition switch or clutch safety switch interlock.

I don't think it's a battery problem because a) the car started when "push-started," and b) the starter usually makes a repeated clicking sound when it tries to crank when the battery has low power.
 

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try tapping on the starter ti see if it or its solenoid are busted, sorry about the ambigious info, i forget stuph
 

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Just b/c it push started doesn't mean it's not the battery. My battery died and how'd I get to the local Interstate Battery warehouse to buy a new one? I push stared it and drove.
I'm not really sure what your problem is though, b/c a battery doesn't just die w/out no reason (at least not completely) like that. And starters don't usually either, as someone else already said, they tend to click when they die. It is possible for it not to click and still die though, my friends F150 did it twice. D*mn cheap *ss Discount Auto Parts starters.
 

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recently, i had no start problems and corrected by replacing selenoid starter. my problem was a no restart when engine was warm.
in your case, have someone view headlights while you turn the ignition switch.
1st, if they are bright, you have sufficient battery power, if you can not measure battery v.
2nd, if they stay bright there is a break in the starting circuit-like, selenoid, starter brushes, igni. switch, inhibitor switch, wiring. this was my problem.

now, if you hear an obvious click, that is the selenoid allowing starter gear to engage, this is typical of a low on power battery-like maybe less than 12.2 volts or only about 25% charge.

if you hear no click, suspect selenoid-unless of course your battery were stonedead. i had no click with my problem.

the other test i did was the jumper wire test between the 2 terminals on the selenoid, B and M. i connected jumper lead with battery disconnected as i did not want to be called sparky. reconnecting battery and turning ig. switch caused nothing to happen so i suspected a bad selenoid. i replaced starter selenoid sold as an assembly.

there are other self help tests if you have a voltmeter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Problem Solved !

I tapped on the starter and surely enough the car started. Headed straight to my mechanic, and installed a rebuilt starter for $200 CDN including labor.

Thank you guys for your replies, they really do help.
Best Regards
Gullwing
 
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