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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Mr John and Mr Ken, I think this one is for you.

I know there is one for noisy tappets already but I did not want to interfere with another thread - My cars lifters started to clap hands once again but as soon as the engin reaches 2000 rpm's they are operating like normal - no noise. :( :(

I flushed the engin already this weekend changed the oil filter and oil - unfortunetaly we don't have mobil 1 in SA so I used a BP 15W40, SJ spec oil this seemed to help a bit, but the problem seems to get worse.

I did a test tonight ( don't know why I decided to open the oil filler cap while the motor is running) but in doing so I realised that if I open the oil cap while the motor is running the idle speed drops and aventually the engin dies - why???:confused: :confused:

Could a drop in oil presure cause the motor to die or what.

The motor performes normally obviously I do keep the revs low.

This problem is once again draining my brain.

Come on John/Ken I need some guidelines from the wise old men of the forum.

A six is faster than a Ibiza 20VT and a lot cheaper does not matter what Tony says. I am a believer and I believe in my six & the Boks, if she's going - come on I even believed the Boks could win England the weekend before last.
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Hi William

Sounds like you got a worn oil pump, as you say when it is ticking over the hla's get noisey, and when reved they are wuiet
deff sounds like a worn oil pump
worn rotors on the pump will cause that, hope i am wrong but deff sounds like that


Andy
PS
it could just be the oil is to thick but i will go for the pump rotors, and you must be able to get a better grade oil than thats surely ? this engine will deff not like 15/40 to thick, even 10/40 which Mazda had at one time in there books, or 5/40
 

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You definitely need a thinner oil William.
If the HLAs are still noisy after that it's money time I think.

And yes, the engine will stall when it loses oil pressure. I remember someone mentioning that before, but can't remember why (it's me age you know...). And it's too flippin' cold to go and get the Haynes from the boot tonight! :)

Ken
 

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point 1, The correct grade of oil is 10w40
point 2, Andy may be right about the oil pump, but changing to a thinner oil may cure it.
point 3, The engine has a closed circuit emission system.. i.e fumes etc are not allowed to escape anywhere, and are instead taken back into the system to be burnt. removing the oil filler cap is causing a big air leak in the system, and hence it dies.. even pulling the dipstick is enough to cause a loss in revs.
A similar problem would occur if the EGR solenoid packs in. (exhaust gas recirculation)
It's a very complicated emission control system, and has more pipes than westminster cathedral's organ.. all this gives a very low emission output.... yet in the UK we still get overly taxed as it goes on CC's for our cars years.. yet a worn out 850 mini that chucks out more toxins than all our cars put together, pays less in tax... fair??? I think not... my mot tester reckons I would have a seriously hard time trying to top myself with a pipe from the exhaust... mabye just give myself a headache.. })

John

with a 0.00 CO reading.. better than not so fresh air..
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Morning all

Thanks for the input

1 In sa they are not worried about emision output - that maybe why we need to go to the bushveld and challance the lions and crocodiles for some fresh air.

2 I will really have to go out shopping to find a 10w40 oil in SA - up to a couple of years ago you battled to get 15w40 oil in this bloody country - I will find it somewhere, there must be a spareshop where I can buy 10w40 oil.

Just something else don't know if this will make a difference - In SA the climate is a lot warmer than in the UK - won't that make a diff to the grade oil I must be using?:confused:
 

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William

Yes heat always is a big facor in oil, and now thinking about it a little more i wouldn't use anything less than what mazda recommended which was 10/40,maybe 5/40 due to the high tmepetures in your country, which woudl make the oil in the sump very thin, very quickly.

i did find a page on the net that explained this very nicely once, will need to look for it again.

Andy
 

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If the grade to be used is 10w-40 then just find out where your Mazda dealer get theirs.

Also dont use any onther filter than the origonal Mazda one.

Where is SA are you? As the winter temp at night can still fall (I know your just in to summer "lucky Bugger)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I stay in Pretoria, we get the occational winter night where temps drop to 0 - it rarely drops below 0.

Yes summer just started and the temp are 31 degrees celcius already and during the last month the only rain we had was once during the weekend before last:( :( .

Its going to be a dry summer remember we normally get a lot of rain during summer, starting in September already.

I will contact ford now to find out what grade they are using and where I can find it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I just spoke to the dealers and the workshop manager told me that they use Castrol GTD oil which is actually a Turbo diesel oil in all the KLO3 motors as well as the in the Ford Mondeos, He olso told me that most dealers in SA are using Fram oil filters in these cars and not GUD }) in actual fact they carry the Fram filters in stock, He told me not to use a GUD so I will have to take the GUD filter of and go buy some GTD oil and a Fram Filter - this will have to wait until payday:( ,I'm broke}) }) ) I know the GTD oil is quite expensive I thinks it almost 200 bucks(18 pounds).

John

Can you maybe tell me what the oil presure should be? I think I must test that as well, just for incase.
 

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i find it strange the engine stalls when the oil cap is removed

surely from releasing the cap there will be a loss of pressure but shouldn't the ECU sense this and compensate the loss of pressure and speed up the idle to ensure the engine does not stall?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The engine has a closed circuit emission system.. i.e fumes etc are not allowed to escape anywhere, and are instead taken back into the system to be burnt. removing the oil filler cap is causing a big air leak in the system, and hence it dies.. even pulling the dipstick is enough to cause a loss in revs.
Tony

Maybe John can explain why the ECU does not compensate for that

That's maybe why your car costs 8 grand ones and ours only 4 grand:) :) :) :)
 

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TelstarKLO3 said:
Tony

Maybe John can explain why the ECU does not compensate for that

That's maybe why your car costs 8 grand ones and ours only 4 grand:) :) :) :)
i have seen the VAG com software for all VW/AUDI/SKODA/SEAT models and it is very very clever and complex

for example, when resetting the ECU (fault codes, BLOODY COIL PACKS GOING!!!! etc!!), it resets itself and relearns the style of driving that persons drives at all the time, don't ask me how it works i dont have a clue but yes technology in cars has certainly moved on!! the difference in technology from the ECU of my RS to the Ibiza, just shows how much technology advances!

anyway back to the thread

Well John we await your comments or advice......:)
 

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I Lived in Vorna Valley, just of the Alandale turn off for Kylami.

Yes I know the storms in Summer they are a sight to behold. I could see them rolling in over Jo-berg from my place.

Its safer to cut the engine than try to run with a problem. The ECU will set the code to say whats wrong rather than run and stuff the engine up.
 

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Back in 92, the ECU was learning the way we drove the car.. looks like other manufacturers have finally picked up on this... 11 years ain't so bad })

Why it dies... take the PCV valve.. its a one way valve.. The system has lots of solenoid valves, and associated pipework.. any loose ones will cause erratic idling.. Removing the filler cap just gives a big air leak in the system.

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I Lived in Vorna Valley, just of the Alandale turn off for Kylami.
Hey thats not even 5km from where my work place is if you take the back roads.

Were you still in SA when they build the restuarant over the Highway @ New Road turn off ( turn off just before Allandale - coming from Pretoria) That was about in '97 if I can remember correctly. Well I work right next to the Highway on the Right hand side just after New Road Turn off if you are coming from Pretoria (between New Road and Allendale)

Good to speak to somebody that actually knows my surroundings:) :) :) :) :) :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Phoned around a little bit the price for a oilpump is R1388.00 to pounds it works out about 120 Pounds and the Lifters I can get for R50.00 once again to pounds about 4.50 pounds each don't no how good they are though.
 

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TelstarKLO3 said:
Hey thats not even 5km from where my work place is if you take the back roads.

Were you still in SA when they build the restuarant over the Highway @ New Road turn off ( turn off just before Allandale - coming from Pretoria) That was about in '97 if I can remember correctly. Well I work right next to the Highway on the Right hand side just after New Road Turn off if you are coming from Pretoria (between New Road and Allendale)

Good to speak to somebody that actually knows my surroundings:) :) :) :) :) :)

I left in september 97 and yes the new service station and restuarant were there. I worked in Olifansfontein so passed it every day. Thats the Grand central turn off?

Some good time were had in my three years over there, and still have a few very good friends over there.

It was changing almost weekly with all the work going on. I bet I wouldnt recognise the place now.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
It was changing almost weekly with all the work going on. I bet I wouldnt recognise the place now.
Yes, it is also known as the Grand Central Turnoff.

No dave you won't

There is new office parks on both sides of the Highway now almost al the way to Pretoria and every now and then you see they are starting to build a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well guys

It seems to me I must crash this car again then claim from the insurance and buy myself another one I liked the Telstar TX5 (626GT) shape more than the one I currently drive in anycase.

I changed the oil and filter with a Mazda Filter and the used Castrol GTD ( Dealers using it in SA) but the lifters are still tuning howzit.

I will test the oil presure over the weekend if that is fine then I will have to change the Lifters. I took the front tappet cover of and saw that at least two lifters I can decompress when pressing with a screwdriver on them :( :( that might be my problem.

I want to check the oil presure just to be sure.
 

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Oil pressure should be 49 - 71 psi at 3000 rpm.
the relief pressure is 72 - 85 psi (relief valve)

if you can press any lifters by hand, they are shot.. although I have heard of working them in and out in a paraffin bath to clean them.. the valve may be gunged up and sticking open a bit.

John
 
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