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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a little problem. Ever since my motor has been put in, ive noticed that first off, my car is not running nearly as quick or as good as it is supposed to. KLZEs are supposed to be running 14s I thought, but my best was a 16.1. Though this was on a stock ASPEC slipping clutch, and the ASPEC ECU, and a passenger, I feel I should have ran a little better than that. I was looking at my VRIS today, and only the one on the back end of the intake manifold works. It opens all the way when the car is running, it doesnt matter if its idling or revving, it just stays wide open till you shut the car off. The one closest to the throttle body however doesnt open at all. I revved the engine up, and still nothing. I thought this was kind of wierd, because from what I remember they were both supposed to be open at 4300 RPMs. Is the VRIS actuator closest to the passenger side supposed to always stay open, or is that one messed up too? Also, what do I do to test my VRIS and find out exactly why only one is opening?
Chris
 

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Chrissmazdamx6 said:
I have a little problem. Ever since my motor has been put in, ive noticed that first off, my car is not running nearly as quick or as good as it is supposed to. KLZEs are supposed to be running 14s I thought, but my best was a 16.1. Though this was on a stock ASPEC slipping clutch, and the ASPEC ECU, and a passenger, I feel I should have ran a little better than that. I was looking at my VRIS today, and only the one on the back end of the intake manifold works. It opens all the way when the car is running, it doesnt matter if its idling or revving, it just stays wide open till you shut the car off. The one closest to the throttle body however doesnt open at all. I revved the engine up, and still nothing. I thought this was kind of wierd, because from what I remember they were both supposed to be open at 4300 RPMs. Is the VRIS actuator closest to the passenger side supposed to always stay open, or is that one messed up too? Also, what do I do to test my VRIS and find out exactly why only one is opening?
Chris
I don't think 16 seconds is that bad for having a slipping clutch, passenger, and a heavy ass sub box. Look up the paper test to see if both your VRIS are opening. Both definately should open. And should be closed at idle.

Also, what the hell is an ASpec clutch?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I guess "ASPEC Clutch" wasnt really a good explanation. When I did my motor swap, I replaced my clutch with a stock MX6 clutch. I didnt get an aftermarket clutch, which I should have, which is why my clutch is slipping id imagine. Also, when I look up "paper test" all I find is people talking about their results, it doesnt actually tell you how to do it. Where can I find instructions, and after I find out if its not working, what should I do?
Chris
 

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Chrissmazdamx6 said:
I guess "ASPEC Clutch" wasnt really a good explanation. When I did my motor swap, I replaced my clutch with a stock MX6 clutch. I didnt get an aftermarket clutch, which I should have, which is why my clutch is slipping id imagine. Also, when I look up "paper test" all I find is people talking about their results, it doesnt actually tell you how to do it. Where can I find instructions, and after I find out if its not working, what should I do?
Chris
Well the paper test basically consists of wedging paper behind the actuators to verify if they do or don't open. Once you determine that something i wrong you need to figure out why.
The magic RPM points are 3250, 4250, and 6250. If you find one is working and the other is not you could try swapping actuators or solenoids to see if you can figure out where your failing is. Once you do that PM me or catch me on AIM @ rylinkus13 as I have extras of both....
 

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My ZE opens and closes the soleniods while free revving the engine, but I don't think the american ECU will do that. I think it only opens them when the engine is under load, and that's why most people have to do the paper test.

Both butterflys should be closed up to about 3250rpm. Your VRIS or ECU obviously has issues. Have you tried pulling fault codes?

PS - having the VRIS working makes a quite noticable difference to the ZE powerband.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I havent tried pulling any codes yet, but my check engine light isnt on, so I assume thats not the problem. I could be wrong however. There seems to be some confusion and argument on here as to whether Actuator #1 is open or closed when the engine is started. Im not sure on this, but thats kind of irrelevent in this conversation. All I know is that VRIS Actuator #1 goes all the way open, or closed (whichever is the case) when the car is started. I pulled the throttle cable to what should have been WOT, and neither of them moved. When the car is shut off, Actuator #1 goes back to where it was, and VRIS #2 doesnt move at all. I tried to switch the Solenoids around, but couldnt get one of them unplugged, as its in a hard to reach place on Actuator #2. It doesnt even seem like Actuator #2 is getting any Vacuum, because when you try to push #1 back in, its hard to move, but #2 is eash to push in and out just as if the car was off. When I had my KL03 in, I noticed the power the car had right around 4300 RPMs, and this was before I even knew the VRIS existed, and I always wondered why the RPMs jumped at that point. Now I have nothing with the ZE, and it may even be slower than my old motor. Does anyone think getting either the VRTuner or the JSPEC ECU will fix this problem, along with a stage 2 clutch? Rylinkus, if I find out what the problem is, ill definately contact you.
Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Alright, heres an update if it helps anyone in solving my dillema for me. I just went outside, and switched the two solenoid connections around, like people told me to do. Just as I thought would happen, now Actuator #1 isnt moving at all, and #2 is staying open (or closed, whatever) at all times. So obviously the problem isnt with the actuator, or vacuum, so where do I go from here? Do you think that the correct ECU will fix this, or do I need a new Solenoid for Actuator #2? Help, because I have no idea.
Chris
 

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ok,

you switch the plugs, and made the other soleniod work. So basically both soleniods themselves must work, and they both must have vacuum.

So the problem is the electrical signal to the solenoids. Obviously one solenoid is getting no power, ever. The other one is getting 12V when you switch the ignition on. So it seems pretty clear you have some kind of electrical problem going on. The ECU is not sending the correct signals.

I would definitely try pulling codes and see where that leads. either your wiring harness or the ECU itself is faulty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I still have the ASPEC ECU, do you think that could be why only one is working? IMO, its a possability, because the only one that works doesnt open or close any time through the RPMs, the only time it moves is when the car is turned on, and shut off. Maybe the ECU isnt sending out the right VRIS points? I dont know much about ECUs, so someone let me know if im wrong in assuming this. Im going to get the JSPEC ECU sooner or later, but I want to make sure that this will fix the problem. Im tired of being slow. Also, I guess it all depends on opinion, but should I get the VRTuner, or the JSPEC ECU? The VRTuner is so much cheaper, but I heard that the amount of money youll spend on Dyno tuning it, it all averages out about the same. Also, about "pulling codes"... This has to be done on a diagnostics machine at a shop, right? If this is the case, I thought that you could only do that if the "Check Engine" light is on...
Chris
 

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Chrissmazdamx6 said:
I still have the ASPEC ECU, do you think that could be why only one is working? IMO, its a possability, because the only one that works doesnt open or close any time through the RPMs, the only time it moves is when the car is turned on, and shut off. Maybe the ECU isnt sending out the right VRIS points? I dont know much about ECUs, so someone let me know if im wrong in assuming this. Im going to get the JSPEC ECU sooner or later, but I want to make sure that this will fix the problem. Im tired of being slow. Also, I guess it all depends on opinion, but should I get the VRTuner, or the JSPEC ECU? The VRTuner is so much cheaper, but I heard that the amount of money youll spend on Dyno tuning it, it all averages out about the same. Also, about "pulling codes"... This has to be done on a diagnostics machine at a shop, right? If this is the case, I thought that you could only do that if the "Check Engine" light is on...
Chris
You cannot blame this on the Aspec ECU. Mine rnus absolutely fine with Aspec ECU. Granted the VRIS points are not optimal, but they still open and close at the KL03 points.

Also you have a 93. You can pull the codes yourself. Search MAF codes and I'll bet you'll find the paperclip method. Or just go to Julian's site. I know it's on their in the links at the bottom.
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/dorothy.bradbury/probemx/index.htm
 

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yeah, the A spec ECU should still work the VRIS as it did on the KL03. So your Aspec ECU or your wiring harness has issues, which is what I said before.

If it is your harness, then buying a J spec ECU will not help you.

If it is your A spec ECU then I am not sure if the VR tuner will work with a stuffed ECU.

You need to find out where the prob is.

You have an OBDI car, so can pull the codes yourself with a paperclip, as said already.
 

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Baja Wes said:
yeah, the A spec ECU should still work the VRIS as it did on the KL03. So your Aspec ECU or your wiring harness has issues, which is what I said before.

If it is your harness, then buying a J spec ECU will not help you.

If it is your A spec ECU then I am not sure if the VR tuner will work with a stuffed ECU.

You need to find out where the prob is.

You have an OBDI car, so can pull the codes yourself with a paperclip, as said already.
Agreed. If you want to use the VRIS tuner with an ASpec ECU you can get an ECU from a junkyard for like 20 bucks. Assuming that's the issue. Pull the codes and see if they give you some answers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Alright gentlemen....I did the paperclip test, , though a paperclip didnt work, so I had to use a wire. Anyway, what the results were, is a loud ass click when I turned the ignition to "on", then it sounded like a fan turned on for about 2 seconds, then it clicked off again. My CEL didnt blink at all. I opened up my gauge cluster to see if the bulb was blown, and the bulb is perfectly fine. It worked in any other slot. Seeing as no codes were found, what do you think the problem is?
Chris
 

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Chrissmazdamx6 said:
Alright gentlemen....I did the paperclip test, , though a paperclip didnt work, so I had to use a wire. Anyway, what the results were, is a loud ass click when I turned the ignition to "on", then it sounded like a fan turned on for about 2 seconds, then it clicked off again. My CEL didnt blink at all. I opened up my gauge cluster to see if the bulb was blown, and the bulb is perfectly fine. It worked in any other slot. Seeing as no codes were found, what do you think the problem is?
Chris
For future reference....there are far easier ways to check the CEL function.

Doing the diagnostic TEN GND deal is the best...

Just checking to see if the light works can be done by turning the key to ON, without starting the car...
 

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ok, the fan coming on for a second is normal.

If you don't get any codes, what I like to do is make a code to check I am doing it right. Pull one of the electrical plugs off the VRIS solenoid, and do the diagnostic trick again. You should get the fault code for that solenoid. If you don't something is definitely wrong.

If you do, try it for the other soleniod and see if you get the fault code for it as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I tried pulling the VRIS Solenoid and doing it again, and I got the same result, no CEL came on. I pretty much understood this all before, but now im totally lost, so does anyone have any ideas? And no my CEL doesnt come on when the ignition is on the "on" position. Its only done that once, and I believe that was with my old motor.
Chris
 

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A. - Did the check engine light blink at all when you connected the TEN and GND pins? It should blink once, then log-a$$ pause(and if nothin wrong) repeat, 1 blink, long-long pause...

B. - The check engine light, oil light, charge light, "rear" light and one other...I cant remember-dangit--- Should be on when you put your car in the "On" position. How did you check the bulb?--hooked it up-or looked at it?
 
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