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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok peeps I have heard alot of people doggin' out pacesetter exhaust, now i am not to good with name brands so someone plz enlighten me. Are they really that bad?? Is the sound shit? whats up with them someone plz tell me...thnx
 

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Yes, they can be that bad. For starters, they use untreated mild-steel tubing covered with cheesy paint for headers. The high temps will crack the paint and in a week your nice black headers will be covered in a rusty film. Thankfully, you can order ceramic-coated headers from them now that will go a long way to easing these concerns.

The quality of the welds in the headers is still in question. I've heard from more people than I care to remember about how their Pacesetters cracked at a weld and that the fitment was poor.

As far as cat-backs go, I can't really say. No one I know has one. If they do, I suspect they use the same cheesy tubing and paint that the headers have which will likely mean a short lifespan and possible leaks. Do they sell ceramic coated piping or stainless? Don't know...

They're cheap $$$-wise for a reason: they use lesser materials and lesser quality. It's too bad because Pacesetter headers, with their long primaries and elimination of the Y-pipe are said to give respectable power gains (though they really do sound like sh*t compared to the systems that preserve the Y-pipe).

Their reputation, however, precedes them :)

If you can swing it, or if it means saving for another month, try for a Borla or Greddy catback (or even a custom job with a Magnaflow or other muffler) or, if you're looking for headers, check out Hotshot and/or MSDS. IMHO, they're worth the price difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thnx alot man that helps alot. I figured because a cat-back system from them was only $195.00...which is shit like $180.00 cheaper then the borla that I actually wanted...well thnx man for helping me out Borla it is at $374.00 :)
 

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I'VE ACTUALLY BEEN CONSIDERING THE HEADERS... WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY SOUNDING LIKE SHIT? RICEY? LOUD? TOO DEEP? SOUNDS LIKE A HONDA WIT NO MUFFLER?
I DO LIKE THE LONGER PRIMARIES. AND EVEN IF THE QUALITY SUCKS, AT A BUCK FIFTY A PAIR, I'LL REPLACE EM EVERY 6 MONTHS IF I GOTTA. NO BIG DEAL. CAN YOU POWDER COAT THE STEEL ONES? WHATS INVOLVED WITH HAVING A NEW Y PIPE MADE FOR THEM?

THANX IN ADVANCE FOR THE FEEDBACK!!!
L8R
BLUMX6
 

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BLUMX6 said:
I'VE ACTUALLY BEEN CONSIDERING THE HEADERS... WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY SOUNDING LIKE SHIT? RICEY? LOUD? TOO DEEP? SOUNDS LIKE A HONDA WIT NO MUFFLER?
Consider: General Motors 2.8L or 3.1L V6 in, say, an older Z24, Celebrity or Pontiac 6000. Think about the exhaust note from one of those cars...very low, rumbly...distinctive.

Now think about the exhaust note from the 2.5L V6 in the MX6/PGT. Very high pitched sounding, very smooth versus the stacatto note from the GM exhaust.

They are both 60-degree V6s of similar displacements. Why the difference in exhaust tone? One reason (among a couple of reasons) is that the Y-pipe in the Mazda has a small loop in the rear bank that, if stretched out, would be the same length as the pipe leading up under the oil pan to the front bank. Because the front and rear banks have equal lengths to the catalyst, their pressure/sound pulses reach the cat "in sync". The engine fires 6 times in 720-degrees of crankshaft rotation, producing a steady stream of exhaust pulses. The equal length of the Y-pipe ensures the pressure pulses also enter the cat as equally spaced. On top of helping mid-range torque, the Y-pipe also helps provide that sweet sound.

The Pacesetters get rid of the loop from the rear bank, piping the primaries down to a collector that bolts directly, rear-facing, to the Pacesetter Y-pipe (which really does look like a 'Y'.) The path lengths from the front and rear banks are now uneven and the exhaust note changes accordingly.

I should not have said it "sounded like sh*t" because some people actually dislike the "high pitched" sound of the OEM Mazda exhaust and like the change to a lower pitched, GM-ish type sound. I personally prefer the OEM sound (especially when enhanced by a Greddy :)) but I can understand if others want something different. Especially if it means more power :D
 

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WELL, I DONT LIKE THE HIGH PITCH SOUND OF MOST 4 BANGERS LIKE HONDAS & NISSANS. BUT DO YOU MEAN I'LL SOUND LIKE THAT BERETTA WITH THE HOLE IN HIS MUFFLER? OR MORE LIKE A VR6 "BUBBLY BURBLE" KIND OF "TUNED" SOUND?
 

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BLUMX6 said:
WELL, I DONT LIKE THE HIGH PITCH SOUND OF MOST 4 BANGERS LIKE HONDAS & NISSANS. BUT DO YOU MEAN I'LL SOUND LIKE THAT BERETTA WITH THE HOLE IN HIS MUFFLER? OR MORE LIKE A VR6 "BUBBLY BURBLE" KIND OF "TUNED" SOUND?
ok site was down for a few days, can u elaborate just a little on this?
thanx
 

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Also...

Does anyone have experience with the Brospeed headers. I've accepted that the Pacesetter ones suck, but the Brospeed ones are supposed to be ceramic, or ceramic-coated. Any opinions?
 

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I actually had a pacesetter exhaust before but it was on my old Protege. Well the sound is not bad, but the quality is very poor i must say. i have had it for a little over 2 years now, but it started to rust like 1 year after i had it. the piping and muffler was rusting. so i started to paint it with spray paint and i guess that's the only thing helping it from not falling apart rusting. but it starting to rust again. soo i wouldn't buy another pacesetter.
You would want to go with something that last
 

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Just remember the saying.....

"You'll get what you paid for"

Everyone's always asking me why I get the more expensive product out there.... Well, it's a better quality and will last me longer then the cheap brand. So far, out of everything brand name that I have gotten, both for my car or for my house, I've had no problems at all. then you get y friends buying Zenith DVD players and complain about them braking down after a month..

Sorry for the rambling.. just my .02 cents
 

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ahhhhh !

Ok boys and girls. Pacesetter cat back ain't that bad. i got mine for $160, beats paying over 200 for midas to replace the stock one. I'm not saying the they are the best, not at all. But at the time i was short on cash and had just got a ticket for loud exhaust cause i broke the weld from the OEM muffler to the stock piping. So with all that said, yes the exhaust will rust, but hell its been doin me good so far (and i live in chicago) and yes i plan on upgrading but it is a good place to start. It beats the stock ! but everyone makes their own opinion.
 

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The Pacesetter debate will never end.

A lot of people have a lot to say about Paceshitter.I actually have Pacesetter headers on my car. It is widely accepted that their quality is low. We buy them because of the long primaries. I did NOT buy them because they are cheap. I payed $150 for the painted set. I took them to Stan's Headers and had them re-welded and all the flanges ground perfectly flat for $100. After that, I took them to Performance Coatings for high quality, flat black, ceramic coating for $140. With Shipping and taxes, I spent just over $400. See, not cheap.

I already had a 2.5" mandrel bent cat-back with a Magnaflow and it sounded good. When I put the headers on, I didn't like the sound at first. It grew on me. I do get compliments on the sound. It's definitely lower in pitch. More German sounding than Japanese. I don't think it sounds like a POS GM with a hole in the muffler. But what do I know.

I did notice a loss of bottom end power with the headers. I feel that the gain in top end made up for that loss though. I hesitate to write this, but no matter how much I try to fight the placebo effect, it really sems that I got my torque back when I did my Home Depot CAI. I didn't do dyno runs each step of the way, so I can't back this up with numbers and graphs. All I can give is driving impressions. Please try not to flame me too bad on this point.

The worst part of the headers for me was getting them not to leak. I can't detect any leaks at the head. I'm sure this is because of Stan's rework. Where I got leaks was where the flanges of the Y pipe meet the headers. The alignment isn't perfect and the tubing is to thick to flex into alignment. I still have a SMALL leak on one of the flanges. I don't hear the leak, but there is some carbon on the upper side of the flange. Also, the ball and socket they use instead of a flex pipe isn't perfect. When the engine rocks under hard acceleration the ball and socket will leak for a split second. Supposedly this set-up flows better than a flex pipe, I don't know for sure.

Well, there you have it. Input from someone who actually has first hand experience. Take it for what it's worth.
 

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Mike94PGT...try for a Borla or Greddy catback

You have a Probe but I was reading that for the Greddy and Borla, the cat-back systems fall a little short at the tip for the MX6, which requires some modification to extend. I was just wondering if one can do this with a tip extention or does it require moving the muffler back farther? Just wondering cause I just blew up my cat-back... it was stock and I laid down the gas and the back pressure blew my pipe from the section behind the cat... now I sound like a rice burner while dragging the cat on the ground! Not a pretty sight but gives me cause for spending some money, and justification for the wife!
 

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Neither of them requires modification to fit the MX6.
Ask Greg S he has installed both of them on his 6.


Only I4's and 96-7 V6's require any modification. A short extension between the cat. and the new cat-back.
 

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Check that blastmaster_c, they do require a small amount of modification in order to fit on an MX6. If you install the exhaust system without modification, then the muffler will fail to hang where the original stock hangers are. The muffler will sit about 6-8" short of the rear bumper so the tip will actually be completely nderneath the trunk. It's hard to explain. I have a pic of it, just not scanned. In any case, the first section of the cat back, with the resonator, will fit fine with no mods, it will hang on all of the stock hangers. For the section with the muffler, you're going to have to add like a 2'3" extension to it in order for the muffler to be able to reach the stock hangers and for the tip to not be COMPLETELY underneath the trunk. Don't get me wrong, the tip won't stick out of the car like some cars you see, it will sit just right.. just look at my car, you'll see.
 

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Thanks Jorge, either which way the borla or greddy kit will need some mods, right? I found a borla kit for $370, any better prices out there? Sorry bout the projector deal. I did have the MO ready but I never sent it thinking this might happen since only 3 others had sent their portion in. I'll have to put it back farther on my to do list... I'm still stock yet...
 
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