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Discussion Starter #1
Well here it is part one of my how to for a transmission swap. I'll have a whole How to once I develop my pics and copy the rest of the swap notes onto the computer. There's alot of detailed pics right down to every bolt and part. I have like 8-9 rolls of film I need to develop. The notes are pretty detailed as well indicating how many bolts and which size and what to take off, etc. Well here it is. If y'all have any questions when you swap just pm me.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
BY: Chunchoy14(Chunchoy45 on probetalk.com)
and
M(y)x6gr8ride

93-97 Mazda Mx6/626 or Ford Probe V6 2.5L KL03 Automatic to Manual Transmission Conversion write up:

Swap parts needed:
1) Manual Transmission (only v6 and must be 93-97 mx6/probe/626)- I got a 95 v6 and am swapping a 95 mtx
tranny in
2) Flywheel (KLO3 23 LBS)- I'm using (9 LBS Fidanza Flywheel)
3) Clutch- (I'm using a Clutchmasters Stage III)
4) Throwout bearing (release bearing)
5) Pilot bearing
6) Clutch master cylinder
7) Clutch slave cylinder
8) Clutch hydraulic tube and hose- i replaced hose with rr-racing stainless steel clutch line)
9) MTX halfshaft (Driver's side and passenger side)- Some believe you only need driver's but i replaced
both with a new one anyways)
10) MTX Intermediate Shaft with Carrier bearing(the bearing should be one the intermediate shaft)(93 has 3 hole mount, 95 has 2 hole mount get the appropriate year)
11) Shift Linkage and rod
12) Shifter- I used a pacesetter short throw shifter
13) Clutch pedal assembly
14) Brake pedal assembly
15) MTX Transmission mount(I replaced all 3)
16) MTX (4cyl or 6cyl will work)Chassis bracket for top side transmission mount
17) Brake master cylinder (whole master cylinder not required---just reservoir from mtx is required because
the reservoit has an extra port for the clutch master cylinder)
18) New MTX axle seals
19) MTX starter
20) Tranny gear oil ( Must be GL-4)Redline recommended
21) 2 cotter pins
22) (drivers side chassis to upper tranny mount) bracket
23) Mtx tranny to crossmember rubber isolator
Cost: Parts= ~1300(swap parts and aftermarket swap parts)
Labor= Free :)

Keep in mind, you can replace some other parts with new parts or aftermarket parts while you swap. I replaced the stock disc rotors with KVR rotors and Axxis pads, RR-racing poly engine mount, arospeed coilovers, tokico illuminas, new fuel filter, various swap parts like fidanza flywheel, clutchmasters III, pacesetter sts, rr-racing clutch line.

Tools needed ( This is basically all u need, others not included are just extras u could use):
1) 10 mm socket
2) 12 mm socket
3) 14 mm socket
4) 17mm socket
5) 32 mm socket (Just for the axle nut)
6) 1 short flathead screwdriver and 1 stron long flathead screwdriver
7) Impact wrench (You'll feel sorry if you don't have one)
8) Extensions(short,medium, and long)
9) Shoplight
10) Engine jacks (2 needed-one for engine support and one for tranny lowering(unless you purchase a
tranny jack)
12) Hammer (heavy duty one)
13) Breaker bar
14) Mechanics wire( to hold up caliper)
15) Needle nose pliers
16) Regular pliers
17) 1/2, 1/4, and 3/8inch socket wrenches (Get a really long one,a medium one,and tiny short one(for tight fit
areas)
18) 1/2 to 3/8 adapter and 3/8 to 1/4 adapter
19) Can of WD40
20) Car ramp(for rear)
21) 4 jack stands (2 for front supports, 2 for back up right behind the 2 supports
22) 2x4 or 4x4 piece of wood (for jack)
23) 17m box wrench
24) 14mm box wrench
25) Hub puller (optional, it'll make it easier)
26) Phillips screwdriver
27) Wiring schematics for Automatic and Manual Transmission
28) Haynes, Chiltons, and Shop Manual
29) Flywheel/Flexplate holding tool
30) Snap ring tool for install of short shifter.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Part 1: Taking out Automatic Transmission

Day 1:
- Swap parts almost complete. Still need: Clutch, top driver's side tranny mount, Pass. Halfshaft, Axle Seal,
Starter.
- Tools organized and sorted
- Back up onto car ramp (the rear wheels)
- Relieve fuel pressure(green fuse in fuse box)
- Jack up the front ( so its parallel to the floor with the rear)
- Put jack stands on the side supports
- Put 2nd set of jack stands behind the ones supporting the car for safety) and also put extra wheels under
car for safety
- Support motor with engine hoist,jack, or tie bar on top
- Took out intake assembly(elbow,iat,filter,hose)
- Took out charcoal canister (2 hoses top 1 hose on bottom, 2 bolts for bracket)
- Took out cruise control(2 bolts,10mm)
- Took out Battery tray(3 10mm bolts) and battery
- Fuel filter (2 bolts 10mm)(2 hoses,top and bottom)---replace with new one
- Took off wheels both sides
- Took off or moved away Driver's side:
-Tie Rod (1 17mm bolt with cotter pin inserted{remove pin first,new cotter pin needed later} )
- Lower control arm (1 bolt and 1 nut each side, both 17mm)
- Axle Nut (32 mm, use impact wrench)
- Push out driver's side axle from hub(use hub puller or hammer)
- Then remove axle from tranny (use big screw driver or breaker bar to pull out)
- Remove the all splash guards
- Remove crossmember (17mm, 3 on each side,6 total)
- Remove transverse member(17mm 5-6 bolts) and front engine/tranny mount(2 bolts either 14 or 17mm)---
put in rr-racing poly engine mount
- Disconnect all wiring harnesses from the top(all electrical is on top)
- Disconnect the cable from gear selector on tranny
- Take off starter(3 bolts, 14mm, and 2 wires)
- Take off bolts that mount tranny to engine(4 on top, 3 on bottom, 17mm)
- Drain all atx fluid
- Disconnect all atx fluid lines
TMRW- take off pass axle and intermediate shaft
- rear engine/tranny mount
- top driver's side tranny mount
- Lower tranny!!!!!

Day 2:
-Pass Tie rod( 17mm and pin)
-Took off lower control arm (14mm bolt and nut)
- Axle Nut(32 mm, use impact wrench)
- Remove pass. side axle from hub( use hammer or hub puller. If stuck like me, take the whole hub and axle
off car and use drill press at a machine shop,luckily my friend has one at his shop)
- 2 bolts(14mm) to take off intermediate shaft(shaft is between the tranny and pass. side axle)
- Take off rear engine/tranny mount( 4 bolts 17mm socket plus extensions)
- Support engine with jack plus 2x4 onto oil pan
- Tranny ready to drop after top driver's side tranny mount
- Support Tranny with engine jack or tranny jack
- Move everything from under the car
- 3 bolts on top driver's tranny mount
- Danger!!!make sure tranny is stable and won't tilt(very dangerous and heavy)
- Make sure all wire harness and bolts disconnected
- Lower 3-4 inches. Check again for harnesses,hoses, and bolts and make sure tranny is stable
- Now use a breaker bar and pry the tranny from the engine. The tranny might be laying on top of the torque
converter so you'll have to tilt engine a bit to slide the tranny out.
-Lower tranny slowly all the way.
- Tranny is out!!!! and move the slushbox out from the car
- Clean flooor(torque converter oil and tranny oil spills and drips)
- Take off torque converter ( 4 bolts 14 mm)
- Take off flexplate (8 14mm bolts)
- Stopped and analyze the wiring harnesses with the wiring schematics
- Also examine tranny swap parts and compare

PART 1 is finished. Next section is installment of the Manual Transmission and other swap parts.
Disclamer: I am not responsible for any damages to you and/or your vehicle. This write-up is only intended
as general advice. Follow at your own risk.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thanks guys. I'll have the other section up soon as soon as I find my damn notes :mad: . Its pretty long I think. I might have a how to up soon as well on a clutch job, rr-mount, short shifter, brake rotor and pad replacement. arospeed coilovers, tokico illuminas since I did these during the swap .

I might have a short vid on the install too, and a before after. But right now I have to develop the 11 rolls of film. 11!!! damn now that I think about it 11 x 8.00per roll= $88 :eek: . Boy I wish I had bought a digital camera for this. :confused:
 

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how is your project going?

im getting ready to do this also. and find this info helpful. tho im just doing a straight swap manual to manual. but im also doing the fidanza and a cm stage 1.


im not to mechanically inclined so a friend is going to help. im kinda nervous...
 

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I have a 93 Mazda mx 6 ls 2 door coupe that I recently got into an accident with it's not really damaged bad and with the age of the vehicle they just totaled it, wouldnt really be worth doing a salvaged title and a NY state inspection. I need a quick run down on what would be need to do the swap to a automatic 94 Mazda mx6 parts car. Everything in my car is fine had a damage estimate done at a garage only really bad damage is headlights and radiator. I already have a aftermarket body kit for it in storage, just not ready to give up everything I've put into this car!!
 

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I have a 93 Mazda mx 6 ls 2 door coupe that I recently got into an accident with it's not really damaged bad and with the age of the vehicle they just totaled it, wouldnt really be worth doing a salvaged title and a NY state inspection. I need a quick run down on what would be need to do the swap to a automatic 94 Mazda mx6 parts car. Everything in my car is fine had a damage estimate done at a garage only really bad damage is headlights and radiator. I already have a aftermarket body kit for it in storage, just not ready to give up everything I've put into this car!!
If you have anything on the car you wanna sell let me know. I can help pay for what you wanna do lol. But idk what all it will take to do your swap since mine is already a 5 speed. Sorry man
 

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Ecu(if you don’t want codes) manual transmission, clutch pedal, clutch hydraulic cylinder, clutch hydraulic lines, shifter, shift linkages, speedo if you don’t wanna look at the gear selection on the dash. Clutch, flywheel. Can’t remember if tranny mount are the same. Manual radiator or plug tranny lines in auto radiator. Probably more that I’m missing. Be best to find a parts car with all the bits and pieces or drive yourself mad by pieces it together ha. Or you could just buy a manual car, be the easiest. 🤷🏼‍♂️ Plenty of options if you search
 
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