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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
(I have to keep creating a new username because it keeps giving me a "URL Page not found on this server" everytime my cookies expire on my computer....)


I have "un peened" if you will, the 1-1/4" nut on the pass side. Here's the problem. I've busted a 1" drive (yes 1 inch and 3 ft long bar) breaker bar trying to get it loose, sprayed it numerous times with WD-40, still no luck.

I tried putting an Impact on it (I know you're not supposed to on CV axles), with 350ft lb of torque, and nothing.

I have tried doing it when the axle is hot, when it's cold, and so on, with no prevail.

Does anyone have a problem with this? I took it to our little "local" mechanic in my town of 1100 (Bullard, TX) and they tried as well, with no luck.



HELP! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So heat it up? With the axle being cold, correct?


Also, would you suggest that I get a new nut from Mazda? ($7.10 at the dealer)...
 

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ZFreak: If your cookies expire, try logging in at the top right hand corner of the main forum list page where it says "Not cookied?....." (If you are already logged in to another username, you have to logout first, and then you will see that login box on the main page) I have found that to work when getting that error after you try and post. ....that bug has been there for quite some time.

As far as the axle nut goes, they can be a bitch. I have found that a ratchet with a 4 or 5' pipe over the handle works quite well. You will need a LONG lever for that nut. Also, you shouldn't need to go to the dealer to get the locknut; they are available at most local parts stores. I have found that the new CV's do not come with a nut unless the thread is different from the factory axle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Any recommendation? I have a 1/2" drive and a 1" drive 1-1/4" socket, and I broke both breaker bars when I put a bar on the end of them..... I don't see how a ratchet can hold that much torque without stripping the gears in it. ( I have craftsman tools, and the people at Sears are getting to know me very well in the past few days :))


I'll try the cookie thing... thanks.
 

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A breaker bar probably would be the best idea in your case. (I've always been able to get them off with a ratchet and big pipe.) Perhaps you need a bigger breaker bar if you've broken those two. :confused:
 

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where is this nut he is talking about? will i need to battle it when i replace my halfshaft? is it the center nut on the outside?

edit:
damn i just looked it up in the manual, it is the center nut, uh oh, im going to start soaking it in liquid wrench first thing when i start.
 

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get a bigger breaker bar.

In cases like this, there is no substitute for a bigger breaker bar.

I needed a 4' long 3/4" ID steel pipe to get the wheel nut off my passenger shaft when I replaced my half-shaft a year and a half ago.

If WD-40 isn't up to it, then try a different penetrating oil. There are several to choose from. Apply them, then let it soak. Repeat every hour for a day. Let it sit overnight. Try using the breaker bar the next day. Make sure you have the right size socket (32 mm for the DX, I presume the GT is the same size).


Good Luck!
 

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Yeah those things are supposed to be torqued down like over 200 ft/lbs or something like that so they can be a pain once they've kinda frozen up on there.

Make sure you "un-peened" it all the way and do like the rest of hte guys said.
 

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Un-peened is most liely bending the little notch that holds it so it can't spin. When installed there is a notch at the tip of the axle, and the end of the axle nut is bent into it to keep it from spinning off (yeah right). So when he says un-peened I think he means he's bent that little spot back out so he can get it off.
Anyways, on to the post. When I had to get mine off 13 months ago I broke 2 3/4" breaker bars, 2 3/8" ratchets, and one 1/2" ratchet. Home Depot got tired of seeing me. So, I got another 1/2" Husky ratchet, and bout a 10' long 3/4" galvanized steel pipe. And yeah, I used ALL 10' of it to get it off. It worked. Now I put anti-seize on the nut, b/c the little notch should be enough to hold it on once it's torqued down. I also cut the pipe I had into several different lengths so I have new breaker bars, since I broke or bent my old ones. Oh, and the breaker bars I referred to earlier weren't steel pipe, they were 1/2" drive breaker bars from Home Depot. I had 3 different steel pipe breaker bars when I started, all of which I broke or bent. The new pipe I bought was much thicker.
 

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bustin' nut loose for axle

88MX6GT said:

Anyways, on to the post. When I had to get mine off 13 months ago I broke 2 3/4" breaker bars, 2 3/8" ratchets, and one 1/2" ratchet. Home Depot got tired of seeing me.
Oh, and the breaker bars I referred to earlier weren't steel pipe, they were 1/2" drive breaker bars from Home Depot. I had 3 different steel pipe breaker bars when I started, all of which I broke or bent.
You actually broke two 3/4" drive breaker bars, huh.....? After trying the wimpy 3/8 & 1/2 " ratchets, ha....hah. The 3/4" must've been a "China-town" special, as normally they will with-hold the stress. The best bet after using an over-nite penetating, is to borrow an impact gun, but the big a$$ breaker bar will work ! I was informed to be careful applying "heat" as the bearing could be damaged, maybe there's an actual nut buster to cut the blasted thing if somebody re-used an old nut or cross threaded a std nut onto the metric threads previously.
 

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FlySwat said:
WD-40 = Surface Lubricant
Actually, never intended to be used as a lubricant at all. Developed to be used as a water displacer (that'd be the WD part). What it's best at is getting your drowned 6 to start -- just spray the stuff all over your damp high tension parts (coil/wires/cap).

But yer right, 'Swat -- it makes a terrible penetrating fluid, not a whole lot better than using Diet Pepsi.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Thanks for the tips guys. I'm having my neighbor grab me a 3/4" Snap on breaker bar from his work and a 1 1/4" socket. He's also grabbing me a Snap on Impact (3/4" drive :)) if that doesn't work. That impact has so much torque, it will drain my 33 gallon air compressor REALLY fast. Anyway, I'm hoping that get the job done....

Also, where can I get PB blaster?


EDIT>> I've tried for days now to get this damn thing off :) Monday I'll hopefully have the right set of tools to do it. Here's the count of # of tools broken so far:

(1) Can of propane for the butane torch
(2) Cans of WD-40 (I know get PB blaster)
(3) 3/8 to 1/2" adapters
(2) 3/8 Ratchets (hey, gotta start somewhere)
(1) 1/2" Ratchet
(4) 3/8" Breaker bars
(2) 1/2" Breaker Bars

The look on the Sears employee's face when you come up to the desk with 5 craftsman "returns to be replaced" 3 days in a row? Priceless. :)
 

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Hehe, if only you were doing this last June...you and me would've been in the same boat... only my friends and I didn't break quite so many tools... but the Sears people started to get suspicious of us breaking so many Craftsman tools...I believe it was two 1/2" drive breaker bars, and one 1/2" drive ratchet, all of course used with 6' "cheater bars" (steel pipes)...
Also tried the propane torch heating method, and half a can of PB Blaster... none of that worked...
Even burned out an electric impact wrench (piece of crap one)...
Haha, the response from the auto shop teacher when we told him about all the tools we broke on that... it was quite humorous...
Anyway, we had taken apart most of the steering and such in that area of the car, so we had to put that back together and drive it up to my school, and the aforementioned auto shop teacher used an air impact, to no avail, and took a 1/2" drive breaker bar, stuck it on the nut, and stood up on the bar, using the car for balance...bottomed out the shocks jumping up and down on the bar...finally finally broke loose the nut...

All in all, quite an ordeal over just a little nut... but yeah, that took about two weeks, working on and off, until it was finally accomplished. Keep working at it...I'm sure with that equipment you'll get it... hope you're planning on replacing the whole assembly, just to be safe.
 

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A propane torch might not be getting it hot enough. When I helped my buddy do his, we did'nt **** around with propane. We went straight for the Oxy/acetelyne torch, got that "rose-bud" screaming heated it up until that bitch was as hot as it was gonna get without deforming....1/2" impact, came right off. I say from my past experience, get it real hot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
OK...

Well, I have a new nut ordered from Mazda (to be here Tues) and it was only like 7 bucks.

When you say the "entire wheel assembly" you mean the spindle? or the wheel bearing?

I was going to check the bearings when I had the CV joint, and repack them myself if possible, depending on the condition of it. (otherwise replace the bearing)

EDIT>> OH yeah, I've been putting PB blaster on the nut every now and then yesterday and today, so we'll see what happens.
 
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