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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 95 Probe GT, and originally posted this to the Probetalk UBB...

On a long trip yesterday to my parents, my 95 PGT started jerking, sputtering, backfiring and hesitating. Driving 50 miles like that was really tough, especially when it would want to die instead of idle. I would have to heel-toe just to keep the engine going while stopping. I originally thought it was the disty since my car was built in Oct 94 as an early 1995 model... but...

I pulled over to let it cool for a while since I thought the problem would go away after I let it cool.. but I liked to never got the car started again. And tonight after a long cooling, the car won't start, and when it does its
sputtering as it did earlier today.

I pulled a code 3 from the PCM... I checked my distributor and it appears I have the "new" style that has the large externally-visible transistor. I was expecting to have the old style distributor, but I guess I don't.

However, I just remembered... during the sputtering, the Tach would bounce around like crazy, which really leads me to believe the PCM is losing the G signal since I didn't think the engine was really jumping 1k at a time. And
that would confirm the code 3.

If you can answer any of these questions, I'd much appreciate it...

Would a code 3 result in the crazy jerking/sputtering that I was getting?
Would a possible vacuum leak cause such horrible symptoms? (I put phenospacers on a month ago, but didn't have any problems then).

Is replacing the distributor the likely fix, even though I have the "new" distributor?

My car didn't constantly illuminate the CEL while running, only when the stutter would occur (every 3-4 seconds) when the revs would fall.

What did you do to fix your code 3?

Thanks for any of your help since I'm in a bind here,
Brian
 

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I have no ideas what the answers are to those questions, but i got the same problem as u with a 94 mx6 ls v6... i just got my tranny rebuilt and when we got it it sputters, hesitates and jerks... even when we idle i have to put it in neutral just to calm it down and keep it running... at first i thought it was rough idling so i used a fuel system cleaner and 92 octane which helps a little, but im pretty sure its something to do with the tranny... im going to get my ECU checked out and pin point the problem... i'll keep in touch if i find it or if u get it 1st please let me know what u did to fix it... p.s i lost to an acura GS cause of this!
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Unorthodox UDP caused my stuttering

This only applies to the 2.5L V6:

After checking my crank position sensor, I found out that the 4 screws holding the stator on the back of my underdrive pulley were gone, so the stator was sending wrong signals to the PCM, so spark and fuel injection timing was way off.

My car would not idle and would sputter and jerk pretty bad. It was also very hard to get started, and after starting, was running very rich.

My instructions for my UDP don't say to lock-tite the screws. I've heard that current instructions have said that lock-tite must be used on the stator screws. I talked to Joe at UO and he said that the UDP's come with lock-tite on the screws now.

On the Probetalk UBB, a guy lost a KLZE due to a defective UDP which caused the rev limiter to not kick in at 7.5k.

Here's the scoop on that:

93-94 distributors (the ones that are prone to fail) have both G-signal (cylinder id, tells the PCM when #1 is TDC) and NE1 signal stator wheels. In 93-94 cars, the NE1 signal from the disty is used as backup in case the crank position sensor (NE2 signal) fails. However, with the NE1 signal being driven off the camshaft, the timing isn't as accurate and it does not cut fuel at 7.5k rpms, so overreving is possible.

95-97 distys do not have the NE1 signal and rely only on the NE2 signal from the crankshaft, so if your UDP goes on a 95-97 car, your car will run like crap since you have no backup NE1 signal.

Many owners have found that in a no-start situation, just wiggling the CPS wiring harness or cleaning the sensor allieviates the problem.

So, if you have a UDP, make sure the screws are lock-tited!

Brian
 

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i dont know if this helps, but i had the same problem with my tr8 sso when i pulled over i took off the distributer cap and sure enough there was moisture in it, i had to wip eit and puck it back in then take it back out several times before it finaly stopped "sweating" if you have washed your engine recently or if it has rained, try checking this out.
 
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