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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's valentines day and instead of going out to dinner with my wife i'm under the hood of my POS mazda trying to fix it. I turn the key and nothing happens. everything works and the battery has a full charge. I turn the key to on and there's no crank no click nothing. I'd check the codes but it won't give them up unless it's running (great system that is isnt it?). I know it could be the relay or the solenoid or the starter or the charging circuit or a half dozen other things. What I'm looking for is most likely, a common cause of some kind, because I swear if I cant fix the f_ing hunk of shizzle soon i'm goinna set it ablaze, or maybe cut it apart with a torch, that may be more satisfying.
 

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i dont know how similar the starters between the 6 and 4 cylinders are, but turn the key to the on position and take a small peice of wire and hop the power from the main power on the starter to the starter silinoid and see if it clicks or cranks. ive done this several times when diagnosing diff problems, and its easier than pulling the starter out. good luck with it
 

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Ok first hows that 100 amp fuse?

Everything will seem to work with the key in and that fuse blown but when you go to start nothing will happen.

However you do not need to start to pull codes that I knew of unless somehow the I4 is different.
 
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you need to check your starter as well. make sure nothing came loose. same thing happened to me but mine is a V6. NOTHING happened when i turned the key over. came to find out a small connector came off. try push starting it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Thanks for the help, I happen to have a spare starter so i'll try that jump with the wire, and if that doesn't work I'll pull it and swap starters. the I4 has the ignitor coil problem too, but I'm not getting the starter click so it's unlikely to be from that.

edit: It's not a relay, i switched them with ones that are known good. My 100 amp fuse isn't blown but it is kind of dark looking, possibly discolored. i'll swap the fuse in a few minutes and see if that helps. Also the battery is reading a little low (11 volts) and the starter isn't pulling any juice when the key is turned to the start position.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Yeah I tried jumping it. I jumped the solenoid wire to the starter and the motor spun freely, not engaging the flywheel. This of course led me to believe I had a dead solenoid, so I changed the starter and solenoid. Same thing. there's also now a whirring noise from behind the dash somewhere the climate control and radio are off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Update: The starter is good, I wasn't jumping it correctly, when I did it cranked but didn't start (likely due to the low battery). So basically I've eliminated everything except a broken or damaged wire some where, since the actual connections are good. Does anyone know if the ignition system contains any fusible links?
 

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Did u have any corrosion on the battery terminals ? I had a similar problem and i had corroded treminals but i cleaned them off not knowing that the corrosion reached down the starter wire which i had to cut the wire sheathing open to see.
 

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do you have a remote start or an alarm ? some alarms have a starter kill, and remote starts have relay packs that sometimes go bad. both of which would cause it not to start with the key.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
no to both i did get it running by jumping the solenoid. it has bad acceleration unless i manually shift into first gear and then after that it struggles to get over 3k rpm. i have noticed the gear lights on the instrument cluster are not lighting up.
 

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t has bad acceleration unless i manually shift into first gear and then after that it struggles to get over 3k rpm. i have noticed the gear lights on the instrument cluster are not lighting up.
it sounds like an alternator issue to me, have you checked the output voltage of the alt. ? how long does it run after you get it started ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
i haven't checked the output but it's more than 12 volts because i drove it 65 miles and then home again with no problem. plus it's only the PRNDSL lights on the dash that don't work, i was thinking perhaps the circuit is broken to the shift/start interlock and that's why they aren't lighting up.
 

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Try starting the car in neutral instead of park, it won't explain your driveability issues, but may explain why the car won't even crank (if it does in fact start in neutral). Sometimes the shifter cable needs to be realigned.
 
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